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Lifeline replacement and set up

Sailingfun

Member III
I just finished one side of Tototo with 6mm Dyneema.
Very happy with the result!! We use mostly hardware coming from Colligo Marine
 

patrscoe

Member III
My other option was considering using hand swage fittings which I have done. Every where I read on line appears to be against this which pushed it on the bottom of my options. In order for me to rule this out, I hand swage a small 4' scrap 3/16" cable, 2 left over 5 yr old studs, knew someone with as steel shop that was up for a challenge, small bridge crane and steel plates. We went well over 1,500 lbs and the hand swage connection did not move or show any wear or slip. This was only with 3 hand swages (should have 4) on the 5 year old studs left over from a project.
I know pictures don't really do it's justice of the testing performed as the 1 ton small bridge crane started to creak when we added more steel plates. I think we could have put on another 500 lbs, if we had spare plates.

Seems like it would be more than strong enough for lifelines, considering that the stanchions would most likely bend before lifeline fails.
I thought I share this with you.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
Here is my write-up on my recent synthetic lifeline installation:

 

patrscoe

Member III
Goldenstate,
Looks nice.
I ended up changing directions and went with 3/16" bare 1x19 cable and Johnson hardware. Main reason is that I am planning to race more this year and the following, and concern that the rules within the Chesapeake Bay region ma potentially change.
 

BonTiki

Junior Member
Four years ago I was thinking about replacing our discolored and cracked lifelines. Before removing the old lifelines I stripped the PVC coating off of the lines to see how the boat would look with bare cable.
Turned out that the cables were in good shape so I left well enough alone and replaced the older corroded turnbuckles and pelican hooks with shinny new ones.
Hey JSM -
I'm considering replacing the pvc coated lifelines on my Ericson 25 with Dyneema but saw your post about stripping off the pvc on yours and now I'm curious about the shape of mine. So wanted to ask how did you strip off the pvc coating?
Thanks
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Hey JSM -
I'm considering replacing the pvc coated lifelines on my Ericson 25 with Dyneema but saw your post about stripping off the pvc on yours and now I'm curious about the shape of mine. So wanted to ask how did you strip off the pvc coating?
Thanks
Until JSM checks in, IF your present (coated) lifelines are over 20 years old, they need replacing. Period.
If your boat was built in the 70' or 80's, this safety Maintenance chore is overdue.
Uncoated SS or Dyneema will do the job. And replace any ancient turnbuckles and gate closures devices also. Enter this into $$ maint. log as "Life Insurance" premium, payable approx every couple decades, just like replacing the standing rig.
 
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BonTiki

Junior Member
Until JSM checks in, IF your present (coated) lifelines are over 20 years old, they need replacing. Period.
If your boat was built in the 70' or 80's, this safety Maintenance chore is overdue.
Uncoated SS or Dyneema will do the job. And replace any ancient turnbuckles and gate closures devices also. Enter this into $$ paint. log as "Life Insurance" premium, payable approx every couple decades, just like replacing the standing rig.
Yes of course. My query was really due to curiosity as to what lies beneath the pvc. And perhaps a quick cosmetic fix while I contemplate SS vs Dyneema.
I do not know how old mine are as the PO is deceased, but I am guessing "old enough" - hence my project to replace them.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
curiosity as to what lies beneath the pvc

Yes, and when race committees disallow PVC-covered lifelines it's simply because the coating can effectively mask flaws in the stainless wire.
 

JSM

Member III
Hey JSM -
I'm considering replacing the pvc coated lifelines on my Ericson 25 with Dyneema but saw your post about stripping off the pvc on yours and now I'm curious about the shape of mine. So wanted to ask how did you strip off the pvc coating?
Thanks
I used a knife. With the lines in place I cut down to the wire and pulled the knife down the length of the line peeling the coating. You can then strip the rest of the coating off by hand. All in all took about an hour. My cables were all in good shape with no fish hooks or rust (boat is in fresh water).
 
Hey JSM -
I'm considering replacing the pvc coated lifelines on my Ericson 25 with Dyneema but saw your post about stripping off the pvc on yours and now I'm curious about the shape of mine. So wanted to ask how did you strip off the pvc coating?
Thanks
I just found the invoice from the PO's installation of pvc coated lifelines. It was August 1997, and they appear to be in good shape still! Having been born and raised on salt water, I find it amazing how rust-free fittings are on my boat. That's the beauty of spending four months a year in fresh water at 9,000 feet.

Appearances notwithstanding, the relatively nominal cost of lifeline replacement pales in comparison to the risk of catastrophe. (The water temperature is brutally cold, and wearing a PFD by no means guarantees survival). So that puts lifelines in the upper left corner of Don Casey's priority matrix.

Given the fresh water environment and the relatively modest cost (for an E25, which only has one lifeline), why not go with the coated material, which is easier on the hands and on the sails, and replace them every decade or so?

Playing :devil:'s advocate.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I personally don't find the coating any easier on hands or sails. I actually like grabbing stainless shrouds and lifelines. But it's more a matter of taste than anything else, esp. when they're new. If coated calls, anwswer!
 
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