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Kubota D950 (M25xp) Parts Manual / Injector Part Number?

JSM

Member III
My M25xp is idling rough and and won't go over 2700 RPM under load. I have spent the last three days diving on the prop, staring at hoses and running Sea Foam thru the engine . At this point I've pretty much ruled out everything and considering installing new injectors.
Kubota seems to have rabbit holed parts info .
Does anyone know the Kubota part number for injectors for this engine?
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
Model: M-25XP => D950 block => Kubota B1600 (or B20 TLB) tractor

If you go to your local Kubota dealer and ask for injectors for a B1600 tractor, they should have them.

Have you adjusted the valve lash? That should be done periodically and could cause your symptoms.
 

JSM

Member III
Thanks Jerry. My last visit to a Kubota dealer for a circulating pump ($35 Vs. $385 from Toad) was a bit challenging without their part number or tractor model number.
Will also look into valve lash.
 

JSM

Member III
Model: M-25XP => D950 block => Kubota B1600 (or B20 TLB) tractor

If you go to your local Kubota dealer and ask for injectors for a B1600 tractor, they should have them.

Three different Kubota dealers all clam that the above model numbers bring up nothing in their system. I found a parts diagram for the D950. Diagram show two different model numbers for injector 1, 2 and 3. Kubota.
Injector #1 is $200 and 2 and 3 are $90. Parts guy at Messick's had no idea why #1 would be different.
After market injectors on Amazon are dirt cheap and show no difference.
 

JSM

Member III
After spending too much time in the Kubota / Universal rabbit hole I pulled an injector, scraped off some gold and blue paint and found ND 1570 stamped into the injector body. Turns out ND 1570 translates into Denso # 093500-1570.
A quick online chat with finditparts.com confirmed that these were indeed the correct (OEM) injectors for the Kubota D950.
Installed the injectors today ...still lots of vibration under 1000 RPM.
Great pricing and fast service from these guys.
 

mikewright

New Member
I had a similar problem. I had the injectors replaced and the fuel distributor rebuilt. It made a hug difference and has been working flawlessly for the last 3 seasons. But first, I would confirm that you have recently replaced your primary and secondary filters, that the electric fuel pump is working well, and have the compression checked in each cylinder.
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
@JSM: For completeness and to satisfy my curiosity, were all three of the original injectors the same (ND 1570)? If no, was the #1 injector visibly different?

One thing that occurred to me is that the #1 injector wouldn't need (wouldn't have?) a "return in" since there is no upstream injector. Injectors #2-3 have both "return in" and "return out" (daisy chained), with the last "return out" going back to the fuel tank.
 

JSM

Member III
@JSM: For completeness and to satisfy my curiosity, were all three of the original injectors the same (ND 1570)? If no, was the #1 injector visibly different?

One thing that occurred to me is that the #1 injector wouldn't need (wouldn't have?) a "return in" since there is no upstream injector. Injectors #2-3 have both "return in" and "return out" (daisy chained), with the last "return out" going back to the fuel tank.
Yes, all three of the original injectors were the same and all had double nipple fittings. There is a hose on nipple #1 on the first injector that goes to the knurled knob bleed screw.
I looked at all of the knock off injectors on Ebay and Amazon and they are all the same and come with double nipple return collars.
Once I learned that the OEM injectors were made by Denso it was much easier than chasing Kubotas numbers.
 

JSM

Member III
I had a similar problem. I had the injectors replaced and the fuel distributor rebuilt. It made a hug difference and has been working flawlessly for the last 3 seasons. But first, I would confirm that you have recently replaced your primary and secondary filters, that the electric fuel pump is working well, and have the compression checked in each cylinder.
Filters were all new this spring and the lift pump seems to doing it's job so I think I'm good there. Top end RPMs seem to have returned but the engine still shakes at 850 RPM idle, once I get the RPMs up in the 900 to 1000 range she smooth's out nicely.
Yesterday I noticed that my front right motor mount housing is torqued out of line with the foot of the mount. The top nut on the mount came loose on a recent trip and I now think that I may have broken the rubber inside of the housing.
I'll change out the mount and hope for the best.
Looks like I can rule out injector problems for the foreseeable future :)
 

patrscoe

Member III
I am about to do the same. I reached out to someone that replaced the injectors and they provided the below.

The NEW Kubota part number for injectors is: 70000-65400. These have the two port fuel return ("eye") banjo. I ordered them for $85 each from my favorite on-line Kubota dealer. I received Denso 093500-1570 injectors (I believe that Denso ALWAYS made the Kubota injectors). You could simply search for the Denso part number, and probably save a couple of bucks.

I found them for about $80 each.

Patrick
 

JSM

Member III
I purchased the injectors from these guys for $61 ea. plus shipping.
I sanded the copper washers until they were flat and then annealed them and reused them. No problems so far.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
On the Chesapeake Club Zoom meeting last night there was a question about pulling, cleaning, or replacing the M25 fuel injectors. In saying how easy it was I mentioned it takes a 7/8" wrench, which I later second guessed myself on.

Turns out I was half right, in that the injector itself is a 7/8" (22mm), while the cap is an 11/16" (17mm). It's nice to not need two of the same size.

As for torque wrenches, I still use the beam type I bought when I was a teenager and never have to question the calibration of the thing. If you want to torque the cap, you'd need to simply grind the side off an 11/16" deep socket. To be honest, I just hold the base with a combo wrench while tightening the top by feel.

And again, to anneal & re-use a copper crush washer, use a propane torch to heat it cherry red then drop it in water.

Cheers,
Bob / Tin Kicker
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
FWIW, I had my four injectors tested (spray pattern, it was fine), and new heads installed. Cost per injector $50.

Injector testing and rehab is widely available, given that every commercial diesel has the periodic need.
 

JSM

Member III
On the Chesapeake Club Zoom meeting last night there was a question about pulling, cleaning, or replacing the M25 fuel injectors. In saying how easy it was I mentioned it takes a 7/8" wrench, which I later second guessed myself on.

Turns out I was half right, in that the injector itself is a 7/8" (22mm), while the cap is an 11/16" (17mm). It's nice to not need two of the same size.

As for torque wrenches, I still use the beam type I bought when I was a teenager and never have to question the calibration of the thing. If you want to torque the cap, you'd need to simply grind the side off an 11/16" deep socket. To be honest, I just hold the base with a combo wrench while tightening the top by feel.

And again, to anneal & re-use a copper crush washer, use a propane torch to heat it cherry red then drop it in water.

Cheers,
Bob / Tin Kicker
22mm is too small for the injectors. Found this out the hard way when I assumed that my 22mm impact socket would do the job and didn't. Had to run to the store and buy a 27mm deep well socket to complete the job.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
27? I used a 7/8, which is 22mm in metric.

There's something very different, as 27mm would be an odd 1 1/16" and I don't carry one of those.
 

JSM

Member III
Just to clarify if we're talking about removing the injector body from the head the 22mm came nowhere close to fitting. The 27mm fit like a glove.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
At least it isn't a Whitworth socket....!
:)

(Funny if you owned a British sports car or motorcycle at one time...)
 

JSM

Member III
Just to wrap things up. Lifted the engine this afternoon and replaced the torqued motor mount with a new Vetus K75. The shaking I was experiencing at idle has disappeared. As an added bonus I have three new injectors and a 27mm socket that I will probably never use again.
Thanks all for your help.
 
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