Recent content by EGregerson

If the impeller and heat exchanger are ok; check the raw water intake hose. If it's the original (1987 - 2021 let's see....) , it could be collapsing internally. disconnect raw water hose at sea cock; run (known good) hose to impeller pump; check flow.

What JSM said... ditto; Aluminum welder in VA Beach; he put on 1/4" thick tabs. I had to cut relief in the cover to accommodate the increased tab height, but they carry the load.

That looks like a nice set up. I installed the computer on the wall (strboard ice box) under the nav table; drilled up thru to run cables to the elect panel. then pulled cables thru the head (up above the vinyl inside the cabinets) thru the existing cable holes; (I might have actually drilled...

Norva plastics in Norfolk, VA cut me 3 new hatch lenses for $149 total including drilled holes; 2074 gray Plexiglas 4 years ago. No leaks so far; still look great. good luck.

I would go under the sole ; if it's just screwed down. There are already 'places' for wires from the panel to the bilge; eg bilge pump, ant cable. question: does having the compressor in the galley generate a lot of heat?

I don't have the mast head wind speed, but if I did it would be wireless. I can't imagine new equipment connections being compatible with old; they just won't do it. I replaced my instruments, knotmeter, depth with raymarine; then added auto pilot all about 12 years ago. (had to cut pieces &...

It all depends on what u want. They say do an Energy Audit. List the stuff u have; and the stuff you plan to get in the future; add it up to see what the amp load is; day, night, anytime. If ur day sailing and need power for knot meter, depth, auto pilot, reefer, then build it to that level...

I don't know what technology they have that gets such good sound from a small inexpensive speaker these days. I picked up a small JBL; amazing. I notice ur nav station teak appears to be redone. What did u use to strip the old finish off? (mine's old and dark).

ssasailor; I'll update this thread from 2009; where I had rusty water running down the keel after haul out. Since then, I apply new 3M 5200 every couple of years to the hull keel joint. After digging out the black mastic PO put on the rear keel bolt/nut, I replaced it with 5200 and torqued it...

This might be slightly off topic but.... Years ago, after reading here of corrosion problems with keel bolts freaked me out; I put an anode on the 2nd to rear bolt. I'm not a physicist; I didn't know if it's electrical, anoxic water or what; so I thot I'd just try and see what happens. 3...

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I spliced a messenger to the end of my out haul; pulled it thru; then measured it. spiced new one to the messenger; then pulled that thru.

one way around a breathalizer test

ignition You've got to clean the wd40 off the contacts inside the ignition somehow. I don't know what to recommend; I just dropped $250 on a VP ignition module so....be careful. maybe contact VP on what to clean the points/contacts with; see what they recommend. btw; my solar panels charge at...

volvo u can contact them at volvopenta.us via contact form; i imagine they can tell u which model it is based on the serial number; or contact iboats.com; they have a volvo penta portal; they sorted out the seals issue i had for the raw water pump.