32-2 scary rudder cables & hardware

I started to install a Raymarine autopilot on a "new to me" Ericson 32-2 and was horrified when I looked at the rudder rigging. (see the video and photo below).

Has anyone changed their hardware before? It appears to be 3/8 / 10mm, so I ordered up some new marine-grade eyebolts. I'm a bit worried about that cable as well and wondering if it's worth replacing both at the same time since it appears that cable has been rubbing on corrosion for a while. I don't see any good way to replace the cable attachments on the helm side because it is seems to be original and the cable is permanently affixed to the chain. Is there a generic chain-to-cable connection or suggested method to replace the cables?

I also wonder if anyone has installed a Raymarine autopilot on these boats? I purchased the additional rudder reference sensor, however I don't see anywhere to do mounting that would be parallel with the rudder. I could run it without the sensor, however I think it would likely perform better with the reference input?

Sadly the way they routed the exhaust and intake for the engine, the cable has been sawing through both pretty steadily. Those are easily fixed though and I can re-route them.

Looks like your cables are definitely out of adjustment. If your system was manufactured by Edson you can purchase new chain and cable from them. I called Edson two years ago when I had steering questions and found them to be extremely helpful.
I have a 34-2 and recently installed a Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot and am really happy with it. Installing a rudder sensor is next on the list and I found this to be helpful.

While possible that the original wires and sheaves were from Edson, given the year of manufacture, it was likely Yacht Services. Mine is YS, from 1988. Yacht Services lost the "Steering Wars" to rival Edson sometime around the early 90's.
I have had our cables & clamps replaced - by a boat wright - and it's tedious work in a very confined space. It is a huge benefit to have someone doing it with lots of previous experience.
Of course, you may be geographically located where your only real choice is to become your own 'expert'.
IIRC, others here have commented over the years that Edson can supply some equivalent parts and assemblies for older boats with other systems, so a long call to them should be a starting point.
Good luck!

Take a look at the system to see if the sheave assemblies are still firmly attached to the boat. Confirm that the sheaves haven't worn away on their axles so they wobble (some sheaves have bronze bearings that can be replaced).

The tension on the cables (the wire part) is supposed to be about 1" of play (not bar taut). In a new system that tension would be adjusted by the eye bolts you're replacing with new stainless (weird that the bolt is rusty, must be a replacement).

You can replace the wires yourself, or shorten them, using wire clamps--not elegant but it works. The best way to cut the wires is with big wire cutters from Home Depot.

I don't know the layout under the cockpit of the 32-2, but sometimes to make work space it is helpful to remove bilge hoses, water heater, and so on. Access often seems impossible but usually where there's a will there's a way.

Thank you. This is great information and is exactly what I was looking for. This Edson videos are really helpful in figuring out what this should all look like and how to properly reassemble and tension everything.

JSM said:

Looks like your cables are definitely out of adjustment. If your system was manufactured by Edson you can purchase new chain and cable from them. I called Edson two years ago when I had steering questions and found them to be extremely helpful.
I have a 34-2 and recently installed a Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot and am really happy with it. Installing a rudder sensor is next on the list and I found this to be helpful.

Installing an Autopilot Rudder Position Sensor - Marine How To

Rudder Position Sensor - Radial Drive Close Up In this picture you can see the steering systems radial drive and the Starboard shim I fabricated in order to attach the rudder position sensor to the radial drive. A rudder position sensor is really

marinehowto.com

Chain & Wire Rope

All Edson Steering Chain, Wire and Fittings are constructed of the highest quality marine-grade, non-magnetic materials.

edsonmarine.com

Click to expand...

Loren Beach said:

While possible that the original wires and sheaves were from Edson, given the year of manufacture, it was likely Yacht Services. Mine is YS, from 1988. Yacht Services lost the "Steering Wars" to rival Edson sometime around the early 90's.
I have had our cables & clamps replaced - by a boat wright - and it's tedious work in a very confined space. It is a huge benefit to have someone doing it with lots of previous experience.
Of course, you may be geographically located where your only real choice is to become your own 'expert'.
IIRC, others here have commented over the years that Edson can supply some equivalent parts and assemblies for older boats with other systems, so a long call to them should be a starting point.
Good luck!

Click to expand...

They certainly look original, however impossible to know. It is super tight, but I'm used to working on cars so I figured I'd give it a shot. I am in an area where I can get help (SF Bay Area), however the labor rates here are sky high. For example, I recently got a quote for $25k for deck painting and another $15k for topside. Edson seems like the best place to get the information and parts.

Christian Williams said:

Take a look at the system to see if the sheave assemblies are still firmly attached to the boat. Confirm that the sheaves haven't worn away on their axles so they wobble (some sheaves have bronze bearings that can be replaced).

The tension on the cables (the wire part) is supposed to be about 1" of play (not bar taut). In a new system that tension would be adjusted by the eye bolts you're replacing with new stainless (weird that the bolt is rusty, must be a replacement).

You can replace the wires yourself, or shorten them, using wire clamps--not elegant but it works. The best way to cut the wires is with big wire cutters from Home Depot.

I don't know the layout under the cockpit of the 32-2, but sometimes to make work space it is helpful to remove bilge hoses, water heater, and so on. Access often seems impossible but usually where there's a will there's a way.

Click to expand...

I did check all the sheaves - those are really difficult to get access to and were very difficult to remove for inspection. Luckily, they are all in perfect condition with no signs of wear. They are all bronze and appear original.

I'm going to just shorten the wires a bit and then cut off the excess. I bought some longer bolts - the ones on there were so short that there was practically zero room for adjustment. Hopefully I have enough cable. The super difficult part was removing those rusted bolts. They were pretty much welded in there and I didn't want to heat them up. Patience, penetrating oil and a hammer solved it. Now I'm trying to grind off the old wire clamps with a dremel tool so that I don't damage the cable. I suspect that if I cut the cables, I wouldn't have enough left...

JSM said:

....I have a 34-2 and recently installed a Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot and am really happy with it. Installing a rudder sensor is next on the list ....

Click to expand...

I use the EV100 all the time on my E34, but I can't say that I am happy with it. It's always chattering with tiny unnecessary corrections. I've played with the settings, and my steering hardware is tight, so I just live with it. But I wonder whether a rudder position sensor would be an improvement. So please, please give us a report, with pictures and details, if and when you install one.

Different models referenced in this thread, but the parts still perform the same functions...

You said that the sheaves in your boat do not wobble, i.e. the center bushings are not worn, right?

Teranodon said:

I use the EV100 all the time on my E34, but I can't say that I am happy with it. It's always chattering with tiny unnecessary corrections. I've played with the settings, and my steering hardware is tight, so I just live with it. But I wonder whether a rudder position sensor would be an improvement. So please, please give us a report, with pictures and details, if and when you install one.

Click to expand...

I'll definitely update you with photos once I figure out how to mount the rudder position sensor. It looks like I'll need to build something there fiberglass it in, or use build some type of platform.

Loren Beach said:

Different models referenced in this thread, but the parts still perform the same functions...

Quadrant stop on Yacht specialties pedestal

Hi All, I have an E35/3 with Merriman Yacht specialties pedestal. The quadrant stop is a stainless tube about 1" in diameter which is inserted into a hole in the casting under the pedestal. The stop is very loose in the hole. I can take the tube in my fingers and rattle it back & forth -...

ericsonyachts.org

You said that the sheaves in your boat do not wobble, i.e. the center bushings are not worn, right?

Click to expand...

The center bushings show no signs of wear and don't wobble. It appears that the cable is loose from a combination of the corrosion of the bolts and stretching of the cable itself over the years. It was quite difficult to get the sheaves out because they are all blind. Getting out cotter pins blindly isn't fun and I now have a case of the fiberglass itches. In the end though it actually made it easier to gain access to the old cable ends. Assuming I get these cable ends off, I think I'm going to use this cable with the new bolts and hardware this season and then replace the entire chain and cable next season. It should be easier next time since all the hardware will be brand new and I can just cut off the old cables and use them to thread thru the new ones.

The quadrant stops on mine are threaded rods running from under the pedestal on an angle and into the fiberglass. The fiberglass side seems corroded and weak and slightly bent, but they seem to work. The stops seem actually quite too far end-to-end and I'd guess they are about 70 degrees?. Is there a suggested maximum angle for the rudder, or is anything less than 90 degrees acceptable? I thought of just adding some of that pipe insulation as padding so the quadrant doesn't hit the threaded rod. I could fiberglass in some new stops and maybe add my rudder position sensor to the same structure.

We have several vintage manuals in the archives that will help a lot, including lists of original parts and installations.

(New upload! Yacht Specialties/Merriman binnacle steering manual: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/resources/merriman-binnacle-catalog.187/ )

(For Edson pedestals: https://backwinded.com/2015/12/07/replacing-the-diesel-engines-throttle-shift-and-stop-cables/ )

There are several ways to rig quadrant stops. My run of '80s boats has a vertical post on the quadrant (or radial) that strikes aluminum plates mounted as stops. Loren, I recall from photos, had or has a piece of wood that serves the purpose. There are also simple chain systems to provide restraint. The idea is just to prevent over-turning the rudder, and specifically to prevent damage to the steering gear if somebody lets go of the helm while backing up, when a rudder can slam over very hard.


1985 'Ericson 32-3

Informative post...appreciate all the advice on this very important subject. I have a problem that I am having a difficulty diagnosing, that perhaps someone can chime in. When rotating the helm steering to extreme end of starboard turn, I hear a loud hollow "dink" noise. No loss of steerage. No noise to extreme port steering. No other steering problems, very smooth stop to stop except for that loud hollow "dink" noise at extreme end rotate to starboard. Any thoughts? Maybe I should start a new thread?

If you installed your RPI perpendicular to or parallel with the rudder it shouldn't make any difference as you have to calibrate the position of the rudder once it is installed and go through the typical hard over Port, hard over Starboard and center motions as part of the calibration. You can always double check with the manufacturer.

Tex, see what the quadrant stop is hitting to make the noise. On my boat the original rubber had worn off the stop post, and I replaced with a chunk of exhaust hose. Also, one of the L-plates installed for the stop post to hit was falling off, and made a distinct crunchy sound when hard-over on that side until I tightened it.

Christian Williams said:

Tex, see what the quadrant stop is hitting to make the noise. On my boat the original rubber had worn off the stop post, and I replaced with a chunk of exhaust hose. Also, one of the L-plates installed for the stop post to hit was falling off, and made a distinct crunchy sound when hard-over on that side until I tightened it.

Click to expand...

Christian that is positive news for me...hopefully that is all it is, the worn rubber stop post....and double check for loose stop post...will reply back once diagnosed..thanks so much!