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Tragedy East of Florida

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Sometimes that transducer ring screws down easily, other times, the ring just doesn't seem to go on - especially as by this point, I am in haste and starting to panic a bit. I can see how it could be left jammed in but not really secured. Maybe - I'd think it would leak a bit like that, encouraging further efforts. But who knows: by definition, plastic deforms under pressure.

I think I'll look tonight to see if there is provision for a safety wire.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
What's a safety wire and how does it help ?
Safety wires generally keep things from accidentally unscrewing. Like shackle pins (e.g. the anchor) or shroud turnbuckles.

Well, I had a look at the Airmar transducer tonight, and the tab for the safety wire is only in the screw ring. Wiring it down would keep the ring from unscrewing but would do nothing to keep it from popping off from a shock.
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
Safety wires generally keep things from accidentally unscrewing. Like shackle pins (e.g. the anchor) or shroud turnbuckles.

Well, I had a look at the Airmar transducer tonight, and the tab for the safety wire is only in the screw ring. Wiring it down would keep the ring from unscrewing but would do nothing to keep it from popping off from a shock.
From the B&G DST-800 instructions: "Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull nut. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second time. Then lead the wire through the eye in the insert. Twist the wire securely to itself."

If the particular transducer you have does not have an eye in the insert, you could run the safety wire from the base through the screw ring (counter-clockwise) and then back down to the base (still counter-clockwise) to prevent the insert from popping out. Alternatively, one normal counter-clockwise wire from the base to the screw ring and then a second wired clockwise from the base to the screw ring would be the same effect. With two taut wires going 360 degrees, it will strongly resist the forces trying to push the insert up and out.

Given the seriousness of the situation if that transducer pops out, I will be safety wiring mine.
 

eknebel

Member III
A a sobering story, thankfully Richard was rescued successfully. Trying to envision what it was like to find a significant amount of water below, solo and in heavy weather at night, was unsettling to say the least.
This thread has illustrated several ways a boat can sink. This got me pondering how to learn from the tragic sinking. One factor was constant throughout the scenarios I considered calmly from the safety of my lounge chair.
A high water alarm might not have changed the outcome, but would likely have given more time to work the problem.
A quick search showed a variety of battery powered water alarms, priced around $10 each. I was going to buy one, but then found a set of three for $20. I plan to install one on each side the bilges, and one in the middle. I may decide this is overkill, but the thinking is that the side alarms will cover each tack, and the middle one will alarm when the boat is not healed over.
 

frosero7744

Member II
Given my own tests, and not in a frightened but in a very earnest state, I would disagree with your statement.

Cash bounty of $1,000 herewith offered to anyone who can come to my boat and move 17 gallons of water through my (rebuilt, functional) whale gusher pump in a minute. More than one full 5 gallon bucket of water in 20 seconds? Not a chance.
The first year i had my boat, I had the displeasure of a blown dripless seal. It was my Dads first trip out with me into the Sf bay. We motored into the bay from the Alameda estuary and went south of the the Bay Bridge towards Brisbane. When my Dad went below about 2 hours into our trip he noted there was about an inch of water on the floor. A quick check of through hulls and raw water pump had me guessing. Bilge pump was manual on. After the initial @#$$@#!@$!@#@#!#$@#!#$, i flipped on the bilge and began pumping the whaler while setting the course back to home. I was able to reasonably quick get the water back into the bilges and keep it under control. Got the motor fired up and set the AP to head below to see WTF. I saw the dripless was pissing a steady stream from the carbon seal. An old sock was able to prop it up into a position that stopped/slowed the flow. It appears that a possible shift from R to F with a little RPM could have misaligned the shaft and burned the carbon seal up rather quickly.

Back to your comment though Tom. I think the 17GPM rating includes the soiling your shorts rate at which one pumps while water is above the bilges. i pumped like a man possessed. i wont segue into the scupper ball comment here because this is a family site, but it is tempting.

Things i learned. Close your thru hulls when sailing if possible. Install a water witch for auto operation of your bilge pump. Locate your whaler pump handle in the lazerette. Dont shift in gear with any RPM. A new dripless, shaft, cuttless bearing and Haulout are an expensive lesson. Never discount the value of dirty laundry in an emergency. Check for water below often, just in case. Lastly, the shower sump pump doesnt come on without the pressure water switch on. Not to mention the crap i get from Pops about that trip out.
 

Drewm3i

Member II
A a sobering story, thankfully Richard was rescued successfully. Trying to envision what it was like to find a significant amount of water below, solo and in heavy weather at night, was unsettling to say the least.
This thread has illustrated several ways a boat can sink. This got me pondering how to learn from the tragic sinking. One factor was constant throughout the scenarios I considered calmly from the safety of my lounge chair.
A high water alarm might not have changed the outcome, but would likely have given more time to work the problem.
A quick search showed a variety of battery powered water alarms, priced around $10 each. I was going to buy one, but then found a set of three for $20. I plan to install one on each side the bilges, and one in the middle. I may decide this is overkill, but the thinking is that the side alarms will cover each tack, and the middle one will alarm when the boat is not healed over.
Link? I'd like to add one to my current boat.
 

rbonilla

"don't tread on me" member XVXIIIII
In post #37 he said it was a seacock that failed.
I suspect the incoming salt water valve, for the motor...just fwd, port side, of the refridge unit failed, when the boat initially "fell off" the lip...of a wave...free falling 10 - 20 feet...
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I suspect the incoming salt water valve, for the motor...just fwd, port side, of the refridge unit failed, when the boat initially "fell off" the lip...of a wave...free falling 10 - 20 feet...
And, in big seas, alone, you were already really "busy" at that time.....
:(

Glad you are back with us.
Boats, even Ericson's -------- can be replaced.
 

Drewm3i

Member II
I suspect the incoming salt water valve, for the motor...just fwd, port side, of the refridge unit failed, when the boat initially "fell off" the lip...of a wave...free falling 10 - 20 feet...
Sheesh, with a fall like that is there any way it could have been a hull stub/keel breach? I cant even fathom the force of an 8 ton boat free falling 10' into a wave trough.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sheesh, with a fall like that is there any way it could have been a hull stub/keel breach? I cant even fathom the force of an 8 ton boat free falling 10' into a wave trough.
Not likely. But an older hose connection cold be vulnerable. I have been in one gale, and the slamming around and green water on deck was... memorable.... !

All the more reason for all of us to focus on the integrity of our aging thruhull fittings and replacement of any remaining older hose sections.
 

Drewm3i

Member II
Not likely. But an older hose connection cold be vulnerable. I have been in one gale, and the slamming around and green water on deck was... memorable.... !

All the more reason for all of us to focus on the integrity of our aging thruhull fittings and replacement of any remaining older hose sections.
I hear ya on that. The hoses in this boat were in very good shape overall. The only one that I remember that had any cracking were the hoses to the holding tank (no smell at all though) and maybe some of the exhaust hose exterior insulation (I cant recall).

Richard did tell me he did look for the leak and confirmed it wasn't either of the sink drains or head thru-hulls. He is absolutely right that the foot pump and engine inlets were a bear to see/reach (even at the dock) because of the engine location being under the sink. All the thru-hull hoses were double-clamped and all rusty clamps were replaced, at least at the fitting/pvc elbow itself (not sure if the engine inlet had a PVC elbow or not as it's been 18 months). I probably have some old pictures of the bilge somewhere. He also took out the paddle wheel transducer so that wasn't the cause either. Crazy, crazy stuff as this boat had been undergone two refits in a row and never leaked before some sort of catastrophic failure.
 

Chris Mc.

Member III
With no reservations, it is commendable the subject of this thread is here with us, and in his time shares the harrowing experience with us.
Not a mediocre of speculation from me and I sit idly by hoping to learn from those shared experiences.

Thank you.
 
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