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HELP

matias

E38-200 - NYC
Hello everyone!! I wanted to know if someone is available ASAP to show me around some of the operational procedures of the E38-200. The boat is at Huntington, LI NY. Im ready to start sailing but before I would like someone to give me some pointers. I'm willing to compensate you for your service. Thank you
 

Shawn Rodel

38-200 West coast FL.
What are you looking for specifically, I am in Florida and can offer some advice from my time with our 1988 38-200 on this forum.
Shawn
 

ChrisG

Member I
I have an E38-200 made in 1989. If you want to talk on the phone or video conference I'd be happy to, and I'm available most evenings.
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
Hi thank you very much! I appreciate it! The previous owner made several mods and not having the chance to speak to him or have the instructional manuals, or schematics is hard to see exactly what he did. Just a quick question the fresh water foot pump stays in the down position when pressed and leaks until manually moved up. Is that an easy fix?
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
New batteries, new starter, no loose or disconnected wires that I can see. She starts very nicely at the mooring and runs great but the last 2x I tried starting at sea she failed to start ending with a tow back. I only went out twice and got towed twice is getting embarrassing!! After the first failed start the mechanic changed the starter, the following day I went back out and she failed again to start at sea. I had a suspicion it wasn't the starter to begin with but I have a new starter now that works great at the mooring. The only common denominator is me!! I most be doing something wrong? Some insight would be helpful.
P.S. when i press the starter button nothing nothing happens
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
Different setups have different start switchology, but your boat probably has a key switch, a glow plug button, and a start button. The factory wiring is such that the key switch must be "on"(energizes the fuel pump), you must push and hold the glow plug button, and simultaneously push the starter button.

The power for the starter goes through the glowplug button. When the engine is warm, it will start without preheating the glow plugs, but you still need to press the glow plug button in order to energize the starter button.
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
Hi Jerry thank you for your reply. Yes Im doing that and she starts nicely at the mooring but fails to start at sea!!
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
I presume you have have power to the panel when you turn the key to on at sea, yes ? Do you have 2 battery banks and does it happen on both? It would leave either the start button is bad or more likely a bad ground somewhere. I had similar problems and spent a few hours cleaning and tightening all my connections and no problems since. Even if they look and feel tight corrosion can build up and cause continuity issues. Remove the wires and clean connections with wire brush or sand paper. I would start at the ground connections on the engine and any high amperage relays or solenoids. I'm guessing you will find they are pretty corroded when to get them off and have a look.
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
Some diagnostics suggestions... do at the mooring ball to get a feel for what it should be like, and then do again at sea.

Below is a picture of my engine panel. It is the stock panel and wiring for a 1989 E32-3. The steps may be different if your panel is different. Most likely difference is a voltmeter rather than an ammeter (upper left gauge). If the panel has been rewired, you might not need to hold the glow plug switch while pushing the start button (parallel wired rather than series wired).
  1. Turn the key on.
    1. The red "oil pressure" light come on (maybe an annoying buzzer as well). If the oil pressure light doesn't come on, you have a problem with power to the panel or with the key switch. Or you have a burned out oil warning lamp.
    2. Go into the cabin and listen for the fuel pump going "click click" about once a second. If you don't hear it, you have a power problem to the panel (#1 should fail too) or a power problem to the fuel pump. This won't prevent the starter from engaging, so this is not likely your problem.
  2. Press and hold the "Glow Plug" button. The ammeter should indicate ~20 amps draw (needle goes to the left ~one tick). If you have a voltmeter, it should indicate a drop in voltage. If you don't get a significant current (or noticeable drop in voltage), you aren't getting voltage to the glow plugs and you likely won't get voltage to the starter. Factory wiring has the glow plug switch and the starter switch in series - if the glow plug switch is not held, the start switch gets no power.
  3. While holding the glow plug in, press the starter button. I have not watched my ammeter at this point, but I would expect a couple more amps draw. An ammeter needle might twitch a little but it might not be noticeable.
1628534094886.png
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
Thank you Jerry + Dave!! I finally made it out and in without a need of a tow yesterday! Spoke to the mechanic yesterday and indeed he apologized for not checking and changing the old wires (corrosion, multiple splicing, tape...) Hopefully now I can enjoy the remaining of the season. Again thank you for the inputs.
 

Marlin Prowell

E34 - Bellingham, WA
This has happened to many of us, me included. The Universal engine wiring is undersized and potentially dangerous. Search "universal trailer plug" in this forum for lots of advice on how to fix this.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
This has happened to many of us, me included. The Universal engine wiring is undersized and potentially dangerous. Search "universal trailer plug" in this forum for lots of advice on how to fix this.
I could have just clicked on the "like" icon, but this is such great advice that another reply seems justified. Replace that old harness with wire up-sized for the amperage, get rid of the Universal Fire Hazard trailer connectors, and also eliminate the amp gauge at the old panel. Excellent threads and blog entries here from many owners. Another source of info is on the MaineSail site
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
Sorry for the late reply! All issues are finally resolved. The mechanic apologized for doing a crummy job (marina politics). The problem was as mentioned the wire from starter to starter switch. The ♥︎ is back with my boat!! and yesterday I had a wonderful day sailing without a need of a tow! I also want to thanks ChrisG for all his help and support! I drove out to meet Chris Saturday and we had a great time sailing and going over some points on the Ericson 38-200.
 

vasuvius

Member II
Sorry to hijack the thread. I'm now a bit worried as I had an ammeter and I removed so I could use the slot to install a fuel gauge. I didn't think to check the rest of a wiring - some of it is a bit jumbled up. I've not seen any issues so far in the 3 months that I've had the boat. Guess I should check all the wiring soon.

Thanks,
 

matias

E38-200 - NYC
I think is a good idea to check and keep your wiring up to specs and in good condition. Im going to slowly update the entire electrical sys during the offseason my boat needs a refresh!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author

I bought one of these (might be an older model, now) in about 2017. This was to check on the Universal "trailer connectors" on our former M25XP diesel. I found a ten degree rise at *every* connector. When I held each in a hand, they were warm. That was about the 'last straw' in going forward with the replacement of the drive train. There were a list of other concerns, and I discussed them in my engine change-out blog here.
BTW, it's a handy measuring tool for checking register temps around your house to assess furnace or AC function, too.
 
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