Boom Refurbish

Prairie Schooner said:

Which end of the boom gave you the best access to the internal bits?

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Jeff,

From memory, you probably need to attack it from both ends. The outhaul and topping lift are "anchored" at the front of the boom but do their work at the back. Here's the dis-assembly drawing I made when pulling mine apart:


In addition, if you have the original "internal single-line-reefing" (SLR) setup, you'll have two sets of reefing lines and shuttle cars inside the boom as well:



The outhaul and topping lift are mostly centered in the boom while the SLR lines are placed outward of center to the left and right:



Many people remove the SLR setup in favor of separate reef tack and clew lines. I kept SLR for reef#1 and ran separate lines for reef #2. The original SLR setup can be made to work.

Definitely, the boom work is job best done in the garage with the boom hanging at eye level and a flashlight handy. While you have the boom ends off, there are sheaves that need inspection (and likely replacement).

Also, inspect the bolt that holds the boom to the gooseneck. When this bolt gets worn, it allows excess play/slop/movement that can crack the bolt holes in the boom end housing.



A great indoor winter project if you have a garage or can talk the wife into hanging the boom over the dining room table.

Great write-up and that's one of the best preserved Kenyon boom ends I've seen. I wish mine looked that good.

This is the first I have heard of the SLR rig, and I am interested. I had my rigger overhaul my spars last winter, including paint, but SLR wasn't mentioned. Thanks for these details.

Kenneth K said:

Jeff,

From memory, you probably need to attack it from both ends. The outhaul and topping lift are "anchored" at the front of the boom but do their work at the back. Here's the dis-assembly drawing I made when pulling mine apart.
. . . . .
A great indoor winter project if you have a garage or can talk the wife into hanging the boom over the dining room table.

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This is great, Ken!!! Super helpful. Thanks very much. I don't think we have the SLR, but the boom is one thing I haven't explored much.
The dining room table for a work area probably isn't going to fly, even though I am blessed with a remarkably enthusiastic sailor for a life partner. But I'll run it past her anyway.
Jeff

Prairie Schooner said:

But I'll run it past her anyway.

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Good luck with that!

peaman said:

This is the first I have heard of the SLR rig, and I am interested. I had my rigger overhaul my spars last winter, including paint, but SLR wasn't mentioned. Thanks for these details.

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Most people here knock SLR, but I've used it for the last 2 years. Here's the resulting sail shape under reefing, which I'm quite happy with:
Note: Reef 2 uses separate lines. The tack line (red) is visible near the mast and the clew (aft) was left untied rather than having it bowline-tied to the boom.

I kept SLR mainly to eliminate the need for another rope, deck organizer sheave, and clutch that 2-line reefing requires.

Kenneth K said:

the clew (aft) was left untied rather than having it bowline-tied to the boom.

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This makes good sense, since the second reef needs so much more line pulled in. Very cool. I hope I can get this in order, and that it isn't too difficult to use.

peaman said:

This makes good sense, since the second reef needs so much more line pulled in. Very cool. I hope I can get this in order, and that it isn't too difficult to use.

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I have both first and second SLR lines on a double clutch so I can pull both lines at the same time when putting in the first reef. This helps reduce the excess line of the second reef keeping it from getting tangled and readies it if needed. The whole reefing process becomes important to get good results. Especially if you have a bendy mast.

Thanks for the explanation of the outhaul system within the boom. We've been having trouble with the outhaul slipping when we are sailing (ok mostly racing) and end up with a big belly in the foot of the sail. Since we stripped the sails and the boom off the boat as part of our prep for Hurricane Ian, I have the opportunity finally to take a look at what is going on. Fortunately for us, not for others, the storm came ashore south of us.
He's what I see when I pull the outhaul out of the boom at the aft end. Messy. Which end of the boom is the better end to approach a fix?

Thanks
Penny

To simply untangle the outhaul, you could probably do it from the back end like you have shown. If replacing the line altogether, you'll need to open the front as well because that's where the outhaul line anchors. If addressing other internal lines as well, you'll want to have both ends of the boom open.

Please replace those ancient solid axel blocks with modern ball bearing blocks, while it's all apart.

Thanks for the information and advice everyone. Working on getting the ends off.

All those little screws in your photo must be for one of the 1" tracks mounted to both sides of the boom. Many of us (&me) have removed those tracks--easier to just tie the end of the reef outhaul around the boom with a bowline knot. If you keep many of your internal boom lines, those screws are just on more thing the blocks and lines can get hung up on.

If the blocks still turn easily and the sheaves aren't cracked, I'd consider keeping them. I did.

I’ve disassembled the boom and refurbished it. Examining the gooseneck casting (I think that’s what it’s called) I found that there wasn’t a fair path for the outhaul line back into the boom. I ground a deeper path for it, probably more than was necessary. FWIW.

Ken's excellent diagrams above guided me here. These are the bits for the outhaul and topping lift that went back in. I replaced the two outhaul blocks with better kit from a consignment store. The two reef lines (gray and blue) were led above these, aft to sheaves at the boom end.



Even though the clew reef lines are lead down to clutches aft, I reinstalled the clutch arms. It gives us another option if we need to use the cabin top clutches for something else. And I won't lose them. Being aluminum, they were given a coating of corrosion inhibitor. We don't have single line reefing, or separate aft-lead gear for the tack end. For now I'm comfortable going forward to secure the cringle to a hook.
I need to order c-clips for the original pin to the outhaul sheave (yellow line). The old clips broke and I thought I could get by with a clevis pin, but the clutch handles hug the casting rather close.


Perhaps next year I'll strip the boom tube down and repaint it. Also, I opted not to replace the casting sheaves at this time. Both OH and TL worked well enough before I replaced the outhaul blocks and lubed everything. If needed, the OH sheave will be easy enough to switch out with the boom in place.

Has anyone tried running the topping lift control back to the cockpit instead of leaving it on the boom? Any reason not to? Also does the single block give you the purchase you want for it, or could you use more if there was room for it?

We don’t have any internal purchase setup for either outhaul or topping lift and it makes them both pretty tough to use. Planning to install both and looking for best practices before moving forward.

Thanks!

southofvictor said:

Has anyone tried running the topping lift control back to the cockpit instead of leaving it on the boom? Any reason not to? Also does the single block give you the purchase you want for it, or could you use more if there was room for it?

We don’t have any internal purchase setup for either outhaul or topping lift and it makes them both pretty tough to use. Planning to install both and looking for best practices before moving forward.

Thanks!

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Hi Jim,
We did as detailed above. OH run aft and TL on boom. I only change the topping lift when hoisting or dropping the mainsail. Since I'm on deck shepherding that, it's no extra hassle to adjust the TL. But I'm lucky to have an experienced partner who is always with me sailing. If you do a lot of single handing, it might be worth running the TL aft, if you have the room. I do like the outhaul run aft. We tweak it with some regularity while sailing. The purchase we had last season worked well enough so I just upgraded the blocks.
Was that you we met on the recent EYO zoom? Fun to see you on your boat!
Cheers,
Jeff

Some notes/opinions:

--Everything led back needs to go through a deck organizer and probably a clutch. Plan the right number of each, it's awkward to expand their number later.

--I rarely adjust the topping lift, and then only because a deep reef leaves it too slack. But some folks change its length a lot, since they adjust boom height in the slip for comfort. Topping lift needs minimal purchase in my opinion.

--I have become an advocate of tack [typo has been corrected] downhauls--at least if you reef early and a lot, as Ericson owners tend to do. They allow one person to effortlessly reduce or increase sail, and they make downwind reefing possible.

--I doubt I have altered outhaul tension once in 15,000 miles.* I set it and forget it. If you're like me, a minimal internal purchase is fine (3:1). Racers need much more, maybe a cascade, maybe 9:1. It can get tangled up.

--If you lead everything back to the cockpit, install line bags--the bigger the better. Keeps the long tails out from underfoot, and clean.

*The outhaul is in play only with a full mainsail, and its effect is subtle. Those of us who reef early have little need of it because reef outhaul tension is set by winching the reefing line..

Prairie Schooner said:

Was that you we met on the recent EYO zoom? Fun to see you on your boat!

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Yup that was me. Sorry I mixed up time zones and missed it but glad to at least make an appearance and see a few faces!

Christian Williams said:

--I rarely adjust the topping lift, and then only because a deep reef leaves it too slack. But some folks change its length a lot, since they adjust boom height in the slip for comfort. Topping lift needs minimal purchase in my opinion.

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Thx for the notes Christian

Our leech tape has chafed through in a spot and I think it’s from interference by the topping lift, but if I loosen it enough to clear freely my boom lands on my bimini when I drop the main. So it’s a daily thing for me. Right now we have zero purchase and need to push the boom end up manually to get any lift. I’ll add what’s described (which seems minimal but at least something) and see how it goes.

You say clew downhauls - did you mean tack downhauls or do I misunderstand how your reefing is set up?