1982 E-38 Questions, See photos.

[Dferr]

A few weeks back, I posted about the rusted coupling. Now I know why it's so rusted. The stuffing box is practically right up against it. there is no shaft exposed. Is this normal on all E-38s? How would one change the packing if need be? I clearly will have to cut this coupling off. Maybe I can shorten things up a little to get some shaft exposed. Another question, does anyone know how the strut is bolted to the hull? Is it under the hot water heater?

 

[rwthomas1]

I have a bit more room than you do on my E38. Maybe an inch and a quarter of shaft showing. I don't think it is possible to change the packing on mine even with that room. I am thinking that maybe the tail of the stuffing tube, the hose or the FG tube in the hull could all be shortened a bit or in some combination to give more room. Since my packing can be adjusted and doesn't leak I am letting it be for now. Other than that my setup looks almost exactly like yours, without the rust. RT

 

[Loren Beach]

Stuffing and Struts and Couplers, oh my

Ericson often used a type of strut where the top went into the hull and was glassed in with cloth and thickened resin on the inside. At least that's what it looks like they did on our '88.
Since there is no evidence of the insertion point for the top of the strut being any wider than the strut column, I can only wonder what sort of top is on that bronze casting on the inside of the hull, before the glasswork covered it up.
Right above the strut on the inside you should expect to find a (literal) mound about a foot in diameter, and about 1 to 2 inches high.
Ours has white gel coat over all that frp stuff, so a closer inspection would require a grinder...

You did not ask, but your coupler looks like it is, umm, uhh, in need of a good cleaning, presuming you can un-marry it from the shaft. Wow, that's a lot of rust!
Since that looks like a tough location to even try to repack the stuffing box, I would think about the advantages of a PSS shaft seal, next time you haul out.

Opinions rendered cheerfully, and worth about what you pay for 'em...

Loren in PDX

ps: at next major haulout, moving the whole engine forwward a ways is probably not a viable option, I betcha.

 

[Guy Stevens]

Difficult one

Generally if the packing gland is that tight on the coupling you will find that the packing gland has not been correctly tightened, or worse yet, has managed to be loosened by coupling touching it.

I would hazard a guess that your packing gland is leaking, the water hitting the coupling, and the coupling is then slinging it all over the area.

This is a classic case for the installation of a PSS Shaftseal.

However in the mean time, get in there, make sure that the gland is correctly adjusted, use a good wire brush to get the scale off of that coupler. Then hit the whole thing with some phosphoric acid, and paint it. After that, soak it in corrosion block with the hopes of someday being able to get the coupler apart.


Guy

 

[Glyn Judson]

Packing gland clearance issues.

Dear Dferr, I too had a similar experience with the coupling and packing cup interefering, necessitating hauling and removal of the shaft in order to change the packing. Well I only did this once right after getting the boat 12 years ago. Since then I've cut the fiberglass shaft log back 1 1/2" (I'm holding it in my hand as I type this), enough for me to now access the packing in the bronze cup before it hits the back of the coupling. As for getting the coupling off, consider removing the bolts by whatever means including knocking them off with a cold chizle and hammer and loosening any set screws into the shaft side. Then with a new set of bolts at the ready, insert a large nut between the end of the prop shaft and the back of the transmission output shaft and begin to tighten the new nuts and bolts, forcing the coupling halves apart and off the prop shaft. With a bit of cleaning and painting, you might even be ble to reuse the old coupling. As I recall, when I bought all new bolts for my coupling they ended up being case hardened. I'm not too much of the waterless seals as the technology surrounding conventional packing has advanced to much in the last 20 years as to make the new packing with Teflon impregnation, coupled with Teflon paste added, so efficitent that it not only runs cool but doesn't even drip a single drop at all. Then if and when a drip does appear, it's a simple matter to tighten the cup several degrees to staunch it and you're good for years more drip-free use. You already own your old packing so if it ain't broke, why fix it? Aside from the four bolts and some new Teflon packing, I can't see much more cost other than your time to do the repair. Hint: If you can't cut the shaft log back far enough, look to see if you can shorten the black hose joining the log to the bronze barbed gland nut assembly to gain a little more room. Also consider using ABA or AWAB Swedish hose clamps available at West Marine to replace any old Ideal clamps that might be there now. The new ones have a different pitch and are less prone to vibrating loose and causing a potential leak there over time. Go for it, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Loren Beach]

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=743

Here is another thread about struts --- I knew it was here somewhere...


LB