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32-3 Halyard replacement

cdesopo

Member II
We're looking to change out the original halyards on our '89 32-3. Can we go with all 3/8 line to replace the 3/8 line 3/16 wire or will we run into problems up top? Any thoughts or advice would be helpful. Looking to get her (our 1st boat!) in the water for the 1st time in 3 years on July 1 and of course, everything takes longer than expected. Hoping this isn't another one of those projects!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Our '88 boat had the then EY common Kenyon spar. I tried to change to the 3/8 sizing, out of excessive caution. (Using low stretch hi-strength line made strength a non issue.)
I next changed to 5/16 New England T-900. This held in the original factory clutches and in the jaws of the original Lewmar 30ST housetop winches.

In 2019 I changed out the original parts for new clutch stoppers and new size 40ST winches. See my blog entry for some details.
It is remotely possible that your boat, like some other late-production Ericson's has another brand of spar, so temper my sheave sizing info with that possibility. I stitched the end of the new line to the end of the old rope and careful pulled it thru. Stitch it well - you want to maintain the routing down thru the spar. (presuming that the original factory lines have not been disturbed.)
 
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JSM

Member III
Replaced all of the rope and wire halyards on our 34-2 with 3/8" rope with no problems. Used Novabraid XLE from Cajunropes.com.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I need to recast that sentence..... :) I did make the change to 3/8 for a couple of halyards, and then found that that size dragged noticeably thru the cheeks at the top of the mast.
Slightly reducing the diameter to 5/16 solved the problem. Luckily I was able to resell the larger line, so in the end I was not out too much money.
 

cdesopo

Member II
Here's the halyard wire_rope splice. How bad is this? The cover just looks a little banged up (4-5") but the rest of the splice appears good...but we don't really know. Trying to set final priorities.
Wire_rope_splice.jpg

We'll probably go with the 5/16 New England T-900 or maybe a Dyneema DB.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
That splice looks like it was gnawed on!
In olden days the Berserkers were at the forefront of Viking battles, and were so fierce that they would gnaw on their shields in anticipation of the combat.
Rough Bunch of sailors on your boat!!
:esad:
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Regarding the jib halyard, my expensive Dyneema will pull a freight train, but it kinks in iron knots. That can be quite annoying in turning blocks and deck organizer.

We aren't supposed to crank great gobs of tension on the luff of roller furling headsails anyhow, so why the Superman line? Modern rope has little stretch and retightening is easy. I woulds not spend $4.50 a foot next time.

Oh, and the new line will go through the sheaves at the top of the mast just like wire did, there are many threads attesting to that.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
My wire-rope halyards and splices look similar to yours, @cdesopo.

I put my calipers on the existing rope and found some sections as wide as 1/2" and some a little narrower than 7/16". I've just ordered some fairly affordable replacement rope halyards from Defender with a 7/16" width after @Loren Beach and @GrandpaSteve warned me about the perils of climbing the wire halyards.

Don't know if the 7/16" will be a problem at the masthead sheaves, but I guess I'll find out. My clutches are set up for that width, anyway. Will report back.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I replaced my wire-rope jib halyard with 7/16" VPC. It's beefier than I expected and overkill but it turns at the masthead just fine. I did buy it with an eyesplice for the jib shackle but was worried the spliced line was fat enough to get caught in the halyard restrainer. I cut off the splice and now just tie the job on using a halyard hitch.

If I had it to do over, I'd buy 3/8" VPC.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
On the subject of cost, I find this with a short search:

T-900 at $1.91/foot today, and we've used this line for well over a decade.
 
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light24bulbs

E30+ 1984, San Juan Island, Wa
On the subject of cost, I find this with a short search:

T-900 at $1.91/foot today, and we've used this line for well over a decade.
So do you unsheet that part that goes through the sheaves to try to keep the diameter less so that it fits the existing sheaves or do you just run the whole thing and not worry about it?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
So do you unsheet that part that goes through the sheaves to try to keep the diameter less so that it fits the existing sheaves or do you just run the whole thing and not worry about it?
The T-900 5/16" fits my OEM sheaves and clutches OK, so I have had no need to reduce the diameter. (if that's what you mean by 'unsheet'.)
At one point I did try some 3/8", but it dragged in our clutches and was tight thru the cheeks in the sheaves. I was able to re-sell it for a few $ on CraigsList.
 
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Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
So do you unsheet that part that goes through the sheaves to try to keep the diameter less so that it fits the existing sheaves or do you just run the whole thing and not worry about it ?
I use 5/16(8mm) New England VPC on all my halyards & it runs fine through the sheaves. In fact I found that it's actually smoother than the old cable to rope lines. VPC on sale is around a buck a foot too.

 

light24bulbs

E30+ 1984, San Juan Island, Wa
I use 5/16(8mm) New England VPC on all my halyards & it runs fine through the sheaves. In fact I found that it's actually smoother than the old cable to rope lines. VPC on sale is around a buck a foot too.

Nice this is exactly what I was hoping to find out. And I do think using a sort of medium price double braid that isn't quite as expensive as the $2 foot dyneema is perfect for me because I think that's overkill but polyester doesn't look quite strong enough at 5/16. Just had a climber up today and he confirmed that it looked like 3/8 would be a little bit tight. Thanks for the recommendation of that brand and for letting me know it's on sale. I think I'll grab a few hundred feet right now.
 
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