35-3 Halyards

[Disch]

I’m looking at new halyards for my 35-3. The data I’ve found shows 3/8”, but I’ve got a mix (3/8” on the main and 7/16” on the headsail) now. Has anyone had issues with going to 7/16” for both the main and headsail? The deck hardware can handle up to 7/16”, but I’m concerned about the mast head & 7/16 Dia..

 

[corkhead]

I just replaced main and genoa halyards. With Dynema 12 mm D-2 competition ( medium grade).
very low stretch, helps with luff adjustment

 

[Loren Beach]

Quite a bit of 'halyard' info on this site. Do some searching, and contemplating.
There are also a (diminishing number...) few owners who still have the 80's wire-to-rope originals, bless their thrifty hearts.

Once they bleed from a "meat hook" they usually do change to a modern all-rope solution.
The 35-3 is a big boat, and sails are probably bigger than our O-34 Tall Rig, altho the actual halyard loads may be quite similar.

I changed out our old halyards to all-line and also to very low stretch about 20 years ago.
Modern hi-tech line size can be anything sufficient to go thru your clutches and hold in your ST winches. We use T-900 line, 5/16" for everything nowadays. Our old factory line tails looked like hawsers in comparison

BTW, I have a blog entry here showing the new clutches that replaced our OEM clutch banks that were near their life span end due to UV and wear.
There are regular/recurring sales on line at most chandlers, and if you need main + jib + spinnaker + top lift, that's sorta kinda about 400', and you might check on a further discount for a bulk purchase or even a spool.

 

[patrscoe]

I also think it depends on the type of sailing you are planning; i.e. racing, cruising, so on). Also depends on the line quality.
I followed suit with Loren, I also use 5/16" with a Dyneema core (Endura). Line stretch is your enemy with halyards.
Strength is not a concern when you use a high performance line; for example - 5/16" Endura has a 8,100 lb breaking strength while a 7/16" Sta-set line has 6,000 lb breaking strength and additional windage. If I had 8,000 lbs of pressure on my sails, most likely the hardware will give way or my sails would rip apart.

 

[Cory B]

We use 3/8" T-900 for the Main and Jib - its probably overkill, but its easier on the hands to pull than 5/16". If I recall correctly, our masthead sheaves were a little snug for 7/16" and caused extra friction rubbing on the sides. They sheaves were originally designed for small-ish wire.

 

[Kenneth K]

I went with a 7/16 all-rope job halyard for my 32-3. No problem in the sheaves and hardware, but I'll probably go smaller next time.

Also, be aware that the metric equivalents of SAE sizes often look quite a bit larger and smaller. Best to look at an actual sample in-store if you can.

 

[Christian Williams]

I agree, with the new super-rope halyards, go as small in diameter as will work in the clutches and ST winches.

 

[goldenstate]

What year is your boat? My '90 has an Isomat mast with masthead sheaves as shown. You have a Kenyon mast probably?

I am running 7/16" line for the main and jib and I have 3/8ths for my topping lift and a spare halyard.

Both work fine. I had wire-rope halyards originally. My sheaves are adequate.

 

[G Kiba]

5/16" or 8mm on all halyards and sheets, reefs. 1/4" for topping lift, foreguy, cunningham, vang, and twangs. Smaller diameter lines run better through the blocks and sheaves and I have rather small hands and it's easy to remember.

 

[Disch]

What year is your boat? My '90 has an Isomat mast with masthead sheaves as shown. You have a Kenyon mast probably?

I am running 7/16" line for the main and jib and I have 3/8ths for my topping lift and a spare halyard.

Both work fine. I had wire-rope halyards originally. My sheaves are adequate.

it's an '84, with the original sheaves - with 3/8" on the main and 7/16" on the jib. Previous owner didn't put a splice/shackle because it would go back through the sheave and prevent the a full hoist on the jib. I'll have to confirm the mast. thanks

 

[Disch]

We use 3/8" T-900 for the Main and Jib - its probably overkill, but its easier on the hands to pull than 5/16". If I recall correctly, our masthead sheaves were a little snug for 7/16" and caused extra friction rubbing on the sides. They sheaves were originally designed for small-ish wire.

Did you have any issue with the splice (at the shackle) going back through the sheave and prevent a full hoist?

 

[Loren Beach]

Did you have any issue with the splice (at the shackle) going back through the sheave and prevent a full hoist?

Jamming can be a real problem, depending on how close to the sheave the hoisted sail has to go.
I have been using a "halyard knot" for 20 years, to secure each shackle. This also makes it easy to end-for-end the halyard every few years, after removal for washing.
Note that, while true that a knot will reduce the potential strength of the attachment by XX%, when you use a composite line with over 6K pounds strength, you have a ridiculous amount of strength to spare.

 

[G Kiba]

A luggage tag splice will allow you to add and remove the shackle for line cleaning and end swapping. Only hassle is passing the end through.

 

[Cory B]

Did you have any issue with the splice (at the shackle) going back through the sheave and prevent a full hoist?

No. I use a halyard knot not a splice. The line is probably 2x - 3x stronger than it actually needs to be so I don't worry about the strength. Plus as Loren said it makes it easy to swap end-for-end. I ordered my lines a few feet longer than they need to be, so its easy just to cut off a little bit some times to avoid any wear points, or cut off the old knot and make a new one if the mood strikes. But if I were a serious racer I'd downsize and go for a splice to save weight aloft.

 

[Disch]

Thanks all for the information/feedback you provided - much appreciated, moving out with the high strength 3/8" halyard (no change required to deck hardware) & halyard knot.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Quite a bit of 'halyard' info on this site. Do some searching, and contemplating.
There are also a (diminishing number...) few owners who still have the 80's wire-to-rope originals, bless their thrifty hearts.

We finally got the mast down on our newly purchased E35-3 and discovered another reason to get rid of the wire halyards. Apparently the PO always stored halyards clipped at the base of the mast and the spreaders are pretty beat up.
If we weren't replacing the halyards, for sure we'd start clipping them away from the mast.

 

[goldenstate]

We finally got the mast down on our newly purchased E35-3 and discovered another reason to get rid of the wire halyards. Apparently the PO always stored halyards clipped at the base of the mast and the spreaders are pretty beat up.View attachment 40706 View attachment 40707
If we weren't replacing the halyards, for sure we'd start clipping them away from the mast.

A scrub and some rust oleum and she’ll be the belle of the ball (especially when viewed from 30’ below).

 

[Prairie Schooner]

A scrub and some rust oleum and she’ll be the belle of the ball (especially when viewed from 30’ below).

Thanks Tom. It looks like there's been significant deformation or abrasion. Just to be sure, we're going to measure metal thickness once the spreaders are off.