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35-3 Port Chainplate Pics? [Disassembly issue]

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I'm replacing all the pluming for my head and like every other project, it's "providing other opportunities for improvement" (I'm trying for the optimistic side today). I noticed the washers and nuts for the cap shroud chainplates have some rust. I tried searching for some pics and/or advice, but could only find details on the chainplates with rods. Does anyone have pics of the Port cap shroud chainplates that are directly connected to the bulkhead? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start taking it apart.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
Thanks, Christian. That looks like the 35-3, so maybe I can extend my ask to the 38's as well. I'm wondering what's under the headliner. I've seen how the rod attaches to a block where the u bolts attach, but I don't know how the chaiplate that's bolted to the bulkhead ends up at u bolts above deck. Is there a perpendicular plate welded to the piece I'm seeing on the bulkhead?
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
Ah! I'm sorry, I'm looking at my pictures again and I got turned around. The cap shrouds do go the the rod coming from the bulkhead. The aft lowers go to their own chainplate on the back of the port sete. Thanks again
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
I'm replacing all the pluming for my head and like every other project, it's "providing other opportunities for improvement" (I'm trying for the optimistic side today). I noticed the washers and nuts for the cap shroud chainplates have some rust. I tried searching for some pics and/or advice, but could only find details on the chainplates with rods. Does anyone have pics of the Port cap shroud chainplates that are directly connected to the bulkhead? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start taking it apart.
My next trip to my E35-3 will be this weekend...I will take a pic of the port chainplates.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I'm a little embarrassed in my haste to post my question. I'm down on the boat 2-3 times per week, but I've been spending all my time in the head on the other side of the bulkhead.

I’m contemplating expanding the scope of my head replacement project to include removing and inspecting the chainplates. It may sound like an odd connection, but putting the new system in will significantly reduce access to the port side chainplate bolts. I’ve also noticed some rust on the nuts and washers so I’m thinking this is a good time to tackle this.

Ideally, the rig would be removed and everything would be addressed at once, but that’s a larger project I’m not willing to take on now. The primary reason for doing it now is to take advantage of the hoses being out of the way, so I’m focusing on the port chainplates attached to the bulkhead. I’m wondering if I can

  • back the turnbuckles above the deck off to where the tension is removed, but keep them connected to the U-Bolts
  • Run the main Halyard over the port outboard T-Track and tension
  • back off the tie rod turnbuckles below deck for the forward lowers, and cap shroud
  • disconnect tie rod from the chainplates attached to the bulkhead.
  • Remove bulkhead chainplates and inspect, clean or replace as needed
  • Reinstall chainplates to the bulkhead with new nuts, bolts, and washers
  • Connect tie rods and tension the rig
I’m hoping between the mast being keel stepped, the main halyard rigged to port, and the shrouds remaining on the u-bolts, the mast will be stable at the dock while I tackle this project. My main concern is the deck flex while the tie rod is removed. Does this sound reasonable or do I need to remove the shrouds completely from the U bolts?
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
I'm replacing all the pluming for my head and like every other project, it's "providing other opportunities for improvement" (I'm trying for the optimistic side today). I noticed the washers and nuts for the cap shroud chainplates have some rust. I tried searching for some pics and/or advice, but could only find details on the chainplates with rods. Does anyone have pics of the Port cap shroud chainplates that are directly connected to the bulkhead? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start taking it apart.
Trickdhat Ref: Post #5....I hope these pics help?
 

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Maybe I misunderstand, but this type of chainplate, on the interior, seems easy to inspect in place.

A little rust on the stainless would clean off easily and be just cosmetic. I can see disassembling them if the bulkhead itself seems compromised, or if there's rot, or if the bolt-holes in the wood need an annulus, or there wre some other obvious flaw in the integrity of the system. Otherwise....sounds like a lot of work.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I have a leak coming from the dorade box that dripped down the front of the bulkhead. I'm optimistic the wood is ok. But some of the bolts have more rust then I'm comfortable with. There's some rust stains dripping from behind the chain plate backing plate. I'm not too worried about it, but I'm thinking now is the time to inspect with all the plumbing out of the way.

I made a starboard piece to install over the dorade box to hopefully solve the leak and I'll rebed the bar over the box.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
I have a leak coming from the dorade box that dripped down the front of the bulkhead. I'm optimistic the wood is ok. But some of the bolts have more rust then I'm comfortable with. There's some rust stains dripping from behind the chain plate backing plate. I'm not too worried about it, but I'm thinking now is the time to inspect with all the plumbing out of the way.

I made a starboard piece to install over the dorade box to hopefully solve the leak and I'll rebed the bar over the box.
trickdhat: I had the same leaky dorade problem. Seems very common. Covering the top of the dorade is o.k. but the water going into the vents will still be problematic. I used 2-part epoxy and saturated the inside of the dorade which solved the problem. Do a search (injectadeck) on quickly repairing the sandwiched balsa on the foredeck ahead and starboard of the dorade which was damaged by the leaky dorade, leaked into our cabin starboard headliner and left a soft deck. (In your case, dripped down the bulkhead). This is an easy do-it-yourself project!
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I've been wrestling with the tie rod over the last week and I'm still not able to get it to move. These things kind of seem like a set once and forget kind of thing, so I don't think they've been turned since new.

I've been applying pb plaster every day, tried open ended wrenches (surprised to find out they are metric 13mm on the tie rod and 19mm for the bolts). I'm not sure what to do next.

Anyone else pull these chainplates? Any secret to loosening the tie rod? I'm starting to second guess my preventive maintenence plan.
 

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Chris Mc.

Member III
Maybe heat it with a hand held torch, carefully? If you can get the turnbuckle metal to expand, it may be just enough to break the corrosive sealing of the threads.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If there has ever been a leak around the thru-deck fitting, corrosion will occur in the pocket in the top of the aluminum plate that carries the forged top of the Navtec SS rod. That will resist turning with the usual wrench on the "flats" on the rod. I have not had a problem on our boat, but can imagine how it might occur.
I understand that you a trying to turn the barrel, but am wondering also if moisture has run down that far? Whole assembly might need attention. After all these decades the shroud base needs re-bedding anyhow.

Have you unloaded all the force from the shroud(s) by loosening up the shroud turnbuckle? When you view to top section after dropping down the adjacent headliner fabric, can you see an evidence of moisture or corrosion?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I’ve also noticed some rust on the nuts and washers so I’m thinking this is a good time to tackle this.
Sounds like another sign that the shroud connection is due for re-bedding. Check for damage to the coring in that area while the part is off, and epoxy-pot the bolt holes.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
The shrouds are still attached to the U-bolts, but I loosened them to take the tension off. The aluminum block looks really clean from the bottom with no sign of water intrusion on the block, underside of the deck, or the back of the headliner. The rod turns in the block when I try to get it to move. The problem is at the other end where the rod threads into the turnbuckle.

The nuts with the rust on them are on the chainplates located on the forward side of the bulkhead under the counter in the head.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Back in the early 80's (not sure of span of dates) Navtec recalled all of their signature turn buckle barrels because the alloy was too similar to the studs and they would easily gall and "weld" themselves together. Not all owners (presumably the original owners) received or acted on the mailed-out recall notices. Lewmar may now have some info about this, but perhaps not.
IIRC the fix was to change to plated bronze which would not gall.
Wonder if yours might possibly be in that group? Hope not.

(There was one Cal 34 from our club that had this exact part fail while parked at the dock - backstay turnbuckle - and the mast fell down. Mast was salvaged and reused, and no one was injured. Luck is a Good Thing, as the fellow said in that movie.)
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I ran into that issue when I replaced the backstay on my 25+. I was hoping that was not a problem between the tierods and turnbuckles.

When you removed your chainplates, did the flats on the tierods fit SAE wrenches or metric? 13mm wrench fits pretty snug, but I could not get a 1/2" to fit. Same thing on the chainplate bolts. It seems odd that these would be metric
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I ran into that issue when I replaced the backstay on my 25+. I was hoping that was not a problem between the tierods and turnbuckles.

When you removed your chainplates, did the flats on the tierods fit SAE wrenches or metric? 13mm wrench fits pretty snug, but I could not get a 1/2" to fit. Same thing on the chainplate bolts. It seems odd that these would be metric
When we loosened the big bolts for the shroud parts, the aluminum blocks dropped down with no problem. I do plan to put some lube into those cups - invisible when it is tightened up - before total reassembly. Some pix in this entry:
 
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