• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

35-3 windlass install

joncyn

Junior Member
Long story short bought our boat 2yrs ago in Santa Barbara rented the house put everything else in storage moved aboard and started the big refit so thanks to all you that have helped over the past year or so. So the windlass I'm currently stumped on how to get the pan out of the locker tried heat gentle prying, talking nicely, hurling expletives nothing so far has helped should I just cut it out and fab a new one any ideas would be a big help need to
get this installed in 2wks all the old wiring comes out and all new panels etc go in Thanks for the help John
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I'm not familiar with the 35-3 but if its anything like the E38 just do a search and see how the windlass installs were done on them. There are several different ideas on placement and execution but they all work. Most do away with all or part of that pan. Those anchor pans were a poor idea from the start. A proper boat has a decent locker for the rode, one that is deep and accessible. When I modded my boat for the windlass I was quite surprised that Ericson had not done something similar from the start. The space was there, they just chose not to use it. Weird. RT
 

Cory B

Sustaining Member
As near as I can tell the anchor lockers are exactly the same between the 35-3's and 38's. Probably the 34's too.

When I redid our anchor locker I had to resort to a saw to remove the pan in places. I reused the aft 1/3 of it or so, but rebuilt the rest lower for a longer drop for the windlass I added. The windlass is mounted forward, as I didn't want it to intrude in the cabin - I'm very good at hitting my head on things.
 

Doug177

Member III
Hi Cory. Hope all is well. I too am installing a Maxwell Vertical Windlass. I like the clean look of your setup. I will be doing a combination of your layout and that of Dan Morehouse. Do you recall the orientation of your motor. Can't see much from photos.
 

hughschmidt

New Member
we're just starting the process. We have a manual windlass to install is we can, but the space on our 35 3 doesn't see like it will work. Where do we find pictures of what people have done on the site here?
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
I think that I’m probably the “odd ball” in the windlass department because I’m in the process of getting things together to install a manual windlass on my E32-3. The anchor pan or “bucket” as I like to call it, because on the E-32 it’s very deep, always seemed like an afterthought to me for the Ericson designers. A proper anchor locker would have been nice but I guess because the E32 is considered a “racer/cruiser” anchoring was way down on the list. But we gotta work with what we have and so I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about how to install some kind of windlass to help my 70+ year old back. First I thought about how and where I sail and cruise, which is the Chesapeake Bay. I doubt that I’ll be making any round the world cruises in my E32 even though it would be a great adventure. Mostly I day sail out of Annapolis or visiting a marina as a transient where anchoring isn’t an issue with a temporary slip. But I do like dropping the hook someplace too and there are plenty of places on the Chesapeake Bay to do it.

So going through the expense and bother to install an electric windlass for anchoring a small percentage of my time didnt make sense to me but, like I said, I still wanted help weighing the hook. So rather then bothering with all the wiring, switches and extensive modifications to the anchor space I decided to mount a Lofrans Royal manual windlass just behind the anchor locker door. Normally they are meant to drop the chain right into a haws pipe adjacent to the windlass but can’t do that on a E32. Instead I’m mounting it on top of a 2 inch thick block of teak that will allow the chain some space to drop to the deck where I can simply kick it into the locker. Yes, it’s slower then an electric but these things hardly ever break and so are very dependable.

I plan to do a blog about it all since there is nothing about doing this to a E32 on this site aside from photos of a past install but not of a Royal manual windlass. Look for it in the months to come. Like I said, I’m gathering all the pieces now.
 

Attachments

  • 8BEB6A5C-4005-426E-AE5B-2337CD95E4DD.jpeg
    8BEB6A5C-4005-426E-AE5B-2337CD95E4DD.jpeg
    200.4 KB · Views: 20

Doug177

Member III
Helps to open up the old shallow anchor locker in those areas that will not be re-used when you want to remove it. And I think you need to remove it to get the depth you need to for windlass drop. Don't mess with the part above your v-berth as you will want to keep that part of the old shallow locker for your v-berth ceiling. (is ceiling the right word?) The first image shows the part of the old shallow pan cut away just to see what is under there, just don't get too close to the v-birth bulkhead that you can see as dark wood. I left the old locker lip all the way around with a little angle on the inside hanging down. Then I glassed it back in and that lip with a narrow tape of biaxial on the underside of the deck next to it stiffened everything up around the edge.
 

Attachments

  • 35-3-old-anchor-locker-before-removal.jpg
    35-3-old-anchor-locker-before-removal.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 48
  • 35-3-old-anchor-locker.jpg
    35-3-old-anchor-locker.jpg
    167.5 KB · Views: 48
  • 35-3-peels-right-up.jpg
    35-3-peels-right-up.jpg
    80.1 KB · Views: 47

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
And to add some optimism to the initial posts, from 2012, the pan will come out.

Need some caulk remover and a strong (i.e., all steel Red Devil ) paint scraper. The 90-degree turn on the scraper blade can be worked under the pan flange, which has little room for anything else. Then the scraper can be hammered "sideways." Once the caulk bond starts to give way, pry bars fit.

I used "Anti-Bond 2015" from WM at the preposterous price of $40 for 4 oz. But it works.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/anti-bond--anti-bond-2015--P001174804
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
When I was faced with removing the rimmed ss sink from our galley counter... right next to a teak fiddle...
I put a 90 degree bend in the end of a thin scraper blade. I got it started and tapped it with a hammer to drive it 'sideways' all the way around and cut thru the old sealant.
 

Doug177

Member III
So the inside bottom of anchor locker looks like this. Nice and homey for the crappy muddy anchor. AND the Captain his his own little liquor locker.
 

Attachments

  • 35-3-ANCHOR-LOCKER-INSIDE-FINISHED.jpg
    35-3-ANCHOR-LOCKER-INSIDE-FINISHED.jpg
    144.4 KB · Views: 52

Doug177

Member III
And if anybody is wondering about any water leakage they have in the forward part of the v-bunk. Under the original anchor pan is a good place to look.
 
Top