• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

38-200/1989 engine cover

FrankJ

Member I
HI- HAS SOMEONE WORKED ON REINFORCING THE ENGINE COVER, THATS UNDER THE COMPANION WAY STAIRS. THERE'S A SMALL 3-SIDED PIECE OF WOOD MOLDING ON THE INSIDE WHICH IS UNDERSIZED AND NEEDS BETTER SUPPORT. IM REPLACING THE SOUND PROOFING ON THE INSIDE WITH I" SOUNDOWN AND WAS HOPING THAT SOMEONE HAD ADVISE AND MAYBE SOME PIC'S. I WANT TO TAKE CARE OF THE COVER BEFORE APPLYING THE NEW INSULATION.

I'D LIKE TO SAY THAT I APPRECIATE EVERYONE WHO MAINTAINS THIS SITE AND THE SKIPPERS WHO SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES.

FRANK
STAMFORD/CT :egrin:
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Frank,

When I first purchased my '89 E-38 this part of the cover was a little messed up. I glued t back together using thickened epoxy and it has been fine. I used 1.5" Sound Down when I re-insulated the engine compartment. This job was a bit of a pain and if I were to do it over I would pull the engine. It sounds like a big deal but its really not. Most of the items you ould have to disconnect to pull the motor are things you should be replacing or inspecting anyway:

Control Cables- OEM probably, do you really trust that you will be able to shift from reverse to neutral as you are quickly backing into a marina full of boats? What happens when one fails?

Exhaust- when was the elbow cleaned and inspected last? Is your motor runnign hot now?

Fuel delivery- Are you running a little racor screw on filter or the 500 series centrifugal? When was the last time that 50 gallon tank was cleaned?

Electrical- Wiring harnes is one plug, maybe the starter wire was upgraded, is your alternator still charging the old fashioned way through the starter to a on/off/all switch? Time to upgrade.

Plumbing- How old are those hoses? Are they all marine grade or do you have automotive cooling hoses? Is the bypass for the hotwater heater correct?

Motor Mounts- How old? How rusty? How stiff?

With the motor out you can address all of these items and install the sounddown easily. The sounddown is not cheap either so why skimp on the install? Doing a good job will allow you to make the engine compartment almost air tight. Then you can use ducting to plumb in fresh air and pull out hot air using a blower rated for continual use. Some folks with really big alternators use dedicated blowers just for the alternator.

I know this sounds like a lot but I've been there and looking back I wish I would have tackled it from this approach instead of all the knuckle skinnign I went through.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
This sounds like the same problem I had with the engine cover on my E-34.

I cut two pieces of 3/4" marine plywood into triangle shaped gussets about 4 - 6" on a side to match the cover's angle and lopped off the included corner to avoid the existing cleat. I used large, long flathead sheet metal screws through the cover into the gussets to hold them in place. I don't remember if I glued them on or not, but I should have.

Make sure that you have clearance to the engine, filters, whatever, where you locate the pieces.

I realize that plywood was not the best choice, but how many spice racks can you make with the leftovers from the T&H cabin sole replacement? :cool:

I can take a picture when I get back to the boat if it would help. I have never bothered replacing the sound insulation.
 

FrankJ

Member I
Engine cover

Thanks for the info. Um ,don't think I want remove the engine-just not right now. I'm just insulating the inside of the cover. It's a bit tricky to figure out the clearance between the engine and the cover- for the 1" ( Soundown) insulation. Also used two 3-sided wedges to brace/reinforce the cover . I appreciate your response.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Speaking of sound insulation, what is a good sound absorbing panel that is not too expensive?
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Good and not expensive are not compatible when it comes to sound reduction. Sound Down is good but expensive and a beast to work with. You will need 1 1/2" or thicker to get any appreciable reduction and you have to make the engine compartment almost air tight. You may find some products on mcmastercarr.com that might work but I have yet to hear of any one getting great results in noise reduction for cheap.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Thanks Ted, you must have been reading my mind. I was looking at the products at McMaster(one of my favorite online suppliers).

I don't mind paying for quality but I also do not like to pay unnecessarily.

I guess my real question is: Is any one product better than the others when comparing effectiveness and price point? No need to pay double for a marginal increase in performance.
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I looked at the mcmaster stuff but did not see a good fit. That was a few years ago though. Maybe buy a small piece of each and see what its really like?
 
Top