Adding breakers to the DC panel for Raymarine ev-100 auto pilot installation.

[Christian Williams]

On the '85 E32-3, the negative bus bar that Max refers to may be floating in a tangle of wires behind the circuit breakers. If so an upgrade is in order eventually--the original system gets overloaded by all our newfangled appliances.

 

[Filkee]

My ”Access” circuit currently powers my wind/speed/ancient GPS. I have blanks on either side. What is the best resource for finding a breaker switch to put in the blank where I would add a dedicated autopilot switch? That’s what I would do, right?

 

[Loren Beach]

First, perhaps look at the build label on the back of the panel. Maybe it was NewMar, and they are still very much in business. Altho, your panel was installed 3 years before ours... may or may not the same company.

 

[goldenstate]

Yes, a separate circuit for the pilot is a good idea.

You could remove one of your existing breakers to find a brand name and then google/eBay your way to a new one. I think the pilot is 10 amps.

 

[Filkee]

It just struck me that the “bilge pumps” breaker is vacant and 10 Amp. Pumps are connected directly to the batteries. This is what happens when you take a nap in the boat.

 

[Kenneth K]

If you ever need to add circuit breakers, but not on/off switchable ones like the original panel has, small pushbutton CLB breakers (up to 40+ amps) will fit in various places behind the panel.

I put one between my 30A batt charger output line and the #1 battery post on the BATT switch. I also mounted a spare above it. The spare has a black rubber cover on it. The live cover is clear.

 

[David Grimm]

I ran mine off the "instruments" breaker to a relay. My house bank of batts is as close to the autopilot as possible. 10awg wire direct from the batt to the relay then to the pilot. In-line blade fuse at the batt.

The battery should be as close to the pilot as possible according to the manufacturer. A long run from the breaker panel would not be recommended.

 

[Filkee]

I’ve never been inside a NavPod. My ancient plotter/display and power outlet take up almost all of it, but it seems like if I shift the display about an inch, i might be able to get the autopilot on there. Am I nuts to think so? I did measure the gap between the box and the outlet and it works but I don’t know what’s behind the face

 

[Filkee]

I’ve never been inside a NavPod. My ancient plotter/display and power outlet take up almost all of it, but it seems like if I shift the display about an inch, i might be able to get the autopilot on there. Am I nuts to think so? I did measure the gap between the box and the outlet and it works but I don’t know what’s behind the View attachment 43783

 

[goldenstate]

If yours is like mine the Navpod is just a big hollow plastic box. My question would be how you fill in the gaps from the holes after you shift the MFD over.

 

[Kenneth K]

My question would be how you fill in the gaps from the holes after you shift the MFD over.

To quote the famous movie dialogue.....

Mr. McGuire: I want to say one word to you. Just one word.
Benjamin: Yes, sir.
Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?
Benjamin: Yes, I am.
Mr. McGuire: Plastics.

 

[Filkee]

Plastics. I’ll remember that.

 

[Filkee]

If yours is like mine the Navpod is just a big hollow plastic box. My question would be how you fill in the gaps from the holes after you shift the MFD over.

Yeah, Andy sure if the MfD was flush mounted or recessed. This will be fun.

 

[Slick470]

They sell those navpods in different sizes and shapes. You may want to consider moving to a larger one so when you decide on a newer chartplotter you have room for that too?

 

[Filkee]

Yeah, Andy sure if the MfD was flush mounted or recessed. This will be fun.

Autocorrect is murder.

 

[Filkee]

They sell those navpods in different sizes and shapes. You may want to consider moving to a larger one so when you decide on a newer chartplotter you have room for that too?

Fleet command may not allow that additional expense.

 

[Filkee]

Okay, I pushed the button on Defender and it should be here by the weekend. This is how I’m spending my COVID bonus from the state for doing three jobs at two agencies during the pandemic so the admiral isn’t protesting too much. Hunting down a local plastics shop to cut a slug to overlay the Nav Pod, but my latest pondering is would there be any benefit in trying to tie-in my ancient SeaTalk instruments. I think I’m reading that at least my plotter won‘t have a productive conversation with the new kit, but I wondered if the speed/depth, etc. might? Any thoughts out there?

 

[David Grimm]

Ray Marine ITC-5. Will get your anemometer talking to you autopilot. If you hold the lower two outter buttons together on the pilot head unit it will track to apparent wind. I've used it for days and days on end.

 

[Filkee]

To quote the famous movie dialogue.....

Mr. McGuire: I want to say one word to you. Just one word.
Benjamin: Yes, sir.
Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?
Benjamin: Yes, I am.
Mr. McGuire: Plastics.

So, I went with the $15 plastics solution and so far so good. I am at the point where I want to bond the old plastic to the new plastic and wondering if it’s as simple as 4200 or 5200 or if there is some formulation that is more fiendishly clever. The Nav Pods are made out of ABS, the same thing as Legos. Opinions are appreciated.

 

[Kenneth K]

Most ABS cement is black (think of black plastic plumbing pipes in your house). This stuff is clear. It solvent-welds ABS by slightly dissolving/welding the 2 ABS surfaces together.



Practice gluing a couple of scrap pieces first. If you can hide the glued/welded surfaces inside the pod, this might work. If not, I'd try the 5200.