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Anchor Locker 32-3

tadslc

Member III
Has anyone removed the anchor locker pan? I want to reseal and re-bed it and some cleats, bow rail, etc. and just like to know anyone else's experience.

Also, the drain is in the bottom and I'd assume it drains into the bilge?


Thanks
 

gfilipi

Member I
Re: Rebedding Ancor Locker 86 3-3

Hi Tad,

I also have an 86 32-3. I just rebed my anchor locker and rebed everything in the bow last year. It's an easy project.

What to expect. Be ready to clean up a lot of mold and the aluminum backing plates on the cleats may not be in very good shape due to salt.

While it's out you might want to consider the following:

1) pull a new wire for the bow light
2) Install 6'' beckson inspection plates under all points to be serviced or inspected in the future and one in the front of the locker to inspect front rigging screws and ancor roller. I have 5 total now
3) rebed or replace thru hull drain in bottom
4) Rebed hing screws on the ancor locker lid
5) paint bottom of anchor locker lid
6) epoxy a 1/2 '' marine grade plywood backing 6'' X 6'' and install a stronger eyelet for the end of rope of the anchor rode.
7) rebed the drain tube hole through the deck with boaters life or sika-flex (do a good job otherwise you'll have water in your bottom bilges while your under way sailing or motoring)
8) scrape off the old bedding and clean with acetone
9) put a lot of silcon on the bottom lip, screw in and run a bead around the end

Gene
 

tadslc

Member III
Thanks Gene,

On the drain, I assume yours drain out near the waterline in the bow. How did you get the drain tube aligned with the hole? I have some idea's like running a wooden dowl into the tube and feeding this into the hole in the hull but I'd like to hear what you did.

Thanks!
 

gfilipi

Member I
Hi Tad,

Yes. Mine drains out the front near the water line as well.

I used a two wire clothes hangers i connected together with electric tape to make it long enough. On the clothes hanger side that will stay in the ancor locker, bend it enough or attached something to it so it doesn't go through the drain hole in the bottom of the ancor locker.

First to fish it through the the ancor locker. Then position yourself so you can see the hole in the bow of the boat and push the clothes hanger through it. To get the drain tube to go completely in the bow hole you might have to shake the hanger a bit from the dock or in the water if your in the water, but it will go in.

Do a couple of test runs before you put silicone all over everything because it can get messy. I put boaters life in a syringe to make sure I got enough bedding around the drain tube. That part is the only part you need to make sure you do 100% correct otherwise it leaks when you hit a wave.

I rebed mine because I had a water intrusion problem from the drain tube not being bedded correctly

I did it myself so it can be done.

Gene
 

tadslc

Member III
Well, I got it finished. Took a little longer than I figured but overall I think it came out pretty well.
I went ahead and inserted a wooden dowel snugly into the drain hose and fed that through the hole in the hull. Put a ton of sealant around the hose and lowered the anchor locker into place. I then got in my dinghy and moved around where I could pull out the dowel from the hose. I'll try and see how well it's sealed tomorrow but I don't expect any problem. It's got to be better than what I had, because the hose and for that matter the hole had no signs of ever being sealed before.

On to the next project.....
 

pick

Member II
Gene

Thanks for the nice list of things to do and watch for. I've had this on my to-do list for some time. Now perhaps I'll get to it. I also have an 86 32-3

I always thought it would be a bear to get the liner out.

Mike
 

tadslc

Member III
FYI - I tested the drain and it works great! The dowel trick worked well.

Used a 5/16" wooden dowel about 3 feet long
 
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