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Anenometer and knot meter

redlegmsg66

Shawn Simmons
Worked on the boat this past weekend. The anenometer issue looks to be related to bad wiring. I think im going to replace the wire from the anenometer head to at least through the mast step. Didnt have the time to track the wiring inside the boat, that is for next weekend. Wiring at the mast step. Its a mess.
 

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footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Worked on the boat this past weekend. The anenometer issue looks to be related to bad wiring. I think im going to replace the wire from the anenometer head to at least through the mast step. Didnt have the time to track the wiring inside the boat, that is for next weekend. Wiring at the mast step. Its a mess.
Get some heat shrink crimp splices and also put another heat shrink tube over them for an inch or two beyond each splice. You might have to stagger the splices to avoid ending up with a big ball of them that would be hard to secure or stow. Other people's wiring!
 

redlegmsg66

Shawn Simmons
Get some heat shrink crimp splices and also put another heat shrink tube over them for an inch or two beyond each splice. You might have to stagger the splices to avoid ending up with a big ball of them that would be hard to secure or stow. Other people's wiring!
im not certain I am following you. Part of my concern is the damage to the wiring where it goes through the mast step. I thought I posted these pictures earlier. Should I try to save the wire coming through the mast step or just replace it. ideas on how to do either. im certain I could drill through the mast step and run new wires but I would be concerned about water leaking in.
 

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footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Ah, I just read your other thread. You already have some plans and good advice. These pictures are in your 12v thread. I assumed you would be replacing that electrical wiring, due to the exposed copper and broken insulation. Don't re-use that trailer connector. The coax might be ok if it didn't get wet inside the insulation, but if you're in there you might as well replace it all the way to your radio The instrument multi-conductor wire should be able to be tested with an ohmmeter back to that barrier strip and if it is ok, then you could keep it. You just have to decide what to do about a disconnect at the step.

Any time you use splices or terminals of any kind aboard the boat, I would recommend crimped heat shrink terminals and splices.

You might think about using feedthrough fittings under there. That would make sealing the wires more reliable. Having waterproof connectors or wrapping a silicone (Rescue) tape around whatever connectors you choose is also a good idea.

Regarding the boat through the water speed vs. GPS, I like to have the paddlewheel for a couple reasons. As others have said, if you want the true wind speed then you need that data. It is also easier to determine your boat performance with through the water speed data and engine rpm. A dirty hull, fouled propeller, etc. show up quickly when you have through the water speed. No guesswork about effects of current that you will have with GPS ground speed only. I boat in Puget Sound, which has lots of current, so being able to compare is nice. Maybe it's not so important on smaller lakes.

Cleaning the paddlewheel is a bit of a chore, but once you get used to it, the water coming in briefly isn't so scary. The paddlewheel usually has an arrow to indicate which side faces forward, too, important for accurate boat speed.
 

hjohnson

S/V Sagres
As others have observed elsewhere on this site, there are many good reasons to permanently plug your knotmeter's paddlewheel thru-hull with the dummy plug, and get your speed data from GPS. The only reasons to keep it are sentimentality or if you really want to distinguish your speed through the water from your speed over the ground.
Maybe if you're sailing somewhere that doesn't have much in the way of current. On the BC coast, we're often sailing in currents that are in excess of 50% of our hull speed. SOG doesn't tell you that. Plus, lacking STW fouls up all the wind calculations done by the instrumentation.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A little more would help--what's the value of knowing speed through water?
And... that's the answer. The "value" to the captain, on his/her stretch of water, is the overriding factor.
To me it's vital information for motoring and sailing on a river or off the WA coast with a hefty surface current, both of which can vary.
To someone else, closer to zip/nada. Not much more to add to replies 24 and 25.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
im not certain I am following you. Part of my concern is the damage to the wiring where it goes through the mast step. I thought I posted these pictures earlier. Should I try to save the wire coming through the mast step or just replace it. ideas on how to do either. im certain I could drill through the mast step and run new wires but I would be concerned about water leaking in.
replace all that wiring with proper tinned stuff. I would also stay away from crimping in that area as I prefer to solder/shrink wrap exposed/critical connections whenever possible.
 

redlegmsg66

Shawn Simmons
Get some heat shrink crimp splices and also put another heat shrink tube over them for an inch or two beyond each splice. You might have to stagger the splices to avoid ending up with a big ball of them that would be hard to secure or stow. Other people's wiring!
What is my best option to go through the deck / mast step?
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
what's the value to your instrumentation of knowing speed through water?
Almost all wind instruments are dependent on STW to calculate true wind direction. The science of it all slightly baffles me as it would seem you would want a SOG corrected calculation rather than a current affected SPW but then what do I know......not enough. I do know I like sailing knowing the true wind direction.
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Almost all wind instruments are dependent on STW to calculate true wind direction. The science of it all slightly baffles me as it would seem you would want a SOG corrected calculation rather than a current affected SPW but then what do I know......not enough. I do know I like sailing knowing the true wind direction.
...and true wind speed.
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
What is my best option to go through the deck / mast step?

Blue Seas makes Cable Clams for passing wires, but not water, through the deck. I have used one of them successfully in a protected area under my dodger. Hosing off the area hasn't caused any problems, but no rainwater or spray gets into there. They make several sizes. Here is an example:

These rubber stoppers can be tricky to drill properly, so get some advice. I'm getting ready to install a couple more of them for solar panel wires. Adding sealer that is compatible with the rubber is permissible if you aren't confident about your seal through the stopper.

Perko makes Watertight Cable Outlets. I have a pair that I haven't used yet, but they look ok for coax or a multi-conductor cable like your wind instrument cable.

You have to have room within the step for whatever you choose, of course. Don't forget you still have to be able to disconnect the cables when the mast has to come off the deck. The coax is pretty easy using a union between two PL259s, but the other wires need a connector for each, such as the male-female spade type you showed in your pictures. The spades work fine as long as they are tight, and they are taped in a way that keeps water out.
 
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