Chainplate Inspection [Master Thread]

[NicholasR]

It may be a dumb question, but are you sure it's the tie rod end? There's a compartment aft of that on the other side of the bulkhead that's accessible by removing a panel in the floor of the locker. There may be something in there that's rattling around.

The reason I'm asking is there's almost no way this tie rod end would be loose if your rig is properly tensioned as it is the termination point for the aft lowers. Something has to be holding tension in the rig. If your deck isn't bowed up, there's almost nothing holding tension.

If you've done the rig check and still need to tighten this, you're going to need a good penetrating lubricant. CRC's freeze off worked well for me. Make sure you have a really good adjustable wrench so you don't round off the flat spot on the tie rod. Once you have is spinning, take all tension off you aft lower shrouds, tighten the rod so it just makes contact with the U-Bolt backing plat and the pin is seated in the TAFG, then tighten the rod one more full turn. This is what Ericson recommends and it seemed to be right for me.

It may be a dumb question, but are you sure it's the tie rod end? There's a compartment aft of that on the other side of the bulkhead that's accessible by removing a panel in the floor of the locker. There may be something in there that's rattling around.

The reason I'm asking is there's almost no way this tie rod end would be loose if your rig is properly tensioned as it is the termination point for the aft lowers. Something has to be holding tension in the rig. If your deck isn't bowed up, there's almost nothing holding tension.

If you've done the rig check and still need to tighten this, you're going to need a good penetrating lubricant. CRC's freeze off worked well for me. Make sure you have a really good adjustable wrench so you don't round off the flat spot on the tie rod. Once you have is spinning, take all tension off you aft lower shrouds, tighten the rod so it just makes contact with the U-Bolt backing plat and the pin is seated in the TAFG, then tighten the rod one more full turn. This is what Ericson recommends and it seemed to be right for me.

Nothing in the aft compartment and nothing else is knocking. Where the rod terminates (pics attached) is moving/rotating left and right. It’s the only one that’s loose. It moves independently of the tie rod which doesn’t move at all. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[NicholasR]

Upon further inspection there does appear to be a slight bulge in the deck near the u-bolt.

 

[Nick J]

yup, that's pretty definitive and the deck bulge make sense.

As far as the stuck threads are concerned, I alternated between the freeze off and a torch, VERRY CAREFULLY!, on the aluminum slug. The one tie rod I had an issue with, I used a pipe wrench and it left some marks on the rod. If I had to do it over again, I think I would try an Knipex adjustable wrench with smooth jaws (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-...107681?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl).

 

[NicholasR]

Thank you for the advise. Should I bother loosening the two bolts on the backing plate for the u-bolts?

 

[Kenneth K]

I think I would try an Knipex adjustable wrench with smooth jaws

Perhaps these would.work:

 

[Nick J]

Thank you for the advise. Should I bother loosening the two bolts on the backing plate for the u-bolts?

There should be plenty of room in there for the head of the tierod to spin. I don't think you'll gain anything by loosing those nuts unless you want to remove and inspect the u bolts too.

 

[NicholasR]

Well, I’ve read and reread this thread. Have the tie rod turning, about a half turn in either direction before it starts to become very difficult. It appears the tie rod is still engaging the slug as they both move together. However, the slug still moves, parallel with the deck, on its own as per my previous photos.

Not sure if I should keep turning the tie rod as much as I can or if I’m missing something. Last thing I want to do is create a new problem I cant fix out here on the hook.

 

[K2MSmith]

Agreed. I think it might be worth adding that testing the u-bolts with a dye penetrant might be prudent vs. relying on a visual inspection alone. Another option might be sending them out for magnaflux testing. Sometimes small cracks may be difficult to spot with the naked eye

A few of mine looked dodgy through a simple visual inspection. At $35/U-bolt to just replace them I couldn't see messing with testing the others, even though perhaps some of them could have been reused.

Do you have a source for the u-bolts ? They are impossible to find when I looked .

 

[Loren Beach]

Do you have a source for the u-bolts ? They are impossible to find when I looked .

From previous threads, I recall that other owners have had success with Garhauer. Just be sure of the Diameter measurements of the "U" to be sure that the rigging toggles will fit OK.

 

[Alan Gomes]

From previous threads, I recall that other owners have had success with Garhauer. Just be sure of the Diameter measurements of the "U" to be sure that the rigging toggles will fit OK.

Yes. I had Garhauer make mine.