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Chainplate leak, simple not structural

Hello!
I have searched on this forum but not found a how-to for fixing simple leaks from a chainplate. Perhaps because there is no such thing? IF so, how do I check for structural damage and the need to replace the chainplate (bow or stern, they all leak a bit). Once they are deemed safe (ideally), how do I fix the leak? Someone mentioned beeswax. Has anyone seen or done that? IF so , How?

I have an 1984 26 Ericson. Thank you in advance!
 

paul culver

Member III
On my boat there is a slotted metal fitting surrounding the chain plate where it enters the deck. If you remove the two screws and lift it you'll have just enough room to clean out any junk and old sealant underneath. After that, clean the surface well with mineral spirits. Mask off the surrounding area with blue tape, then load it up with 3M 4200 or silicon sealant. Screw the fitting back down and come back the next day with your Xacto knife to clean up.

If the E26 is like the E29 you can't inspect a lot of the chain plate because its embedded in the hull.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The only way to fix leaking deck fittings is to remove them and rebed them with caulk or butyl rubber tape. No surface remedy works.

Once removed, you're looking for saturated core. The deck is a sandwich of fiberglass with balsa inside--the core. We hope the core isn't wet, which can happen with worn out bedding. If it is, there are solutions. If not, recaulking is straightforward.

Stainless steel chainplates might not need replacement. Look for hairline cracks, pits, any sign of weakness. Post photos here.

Getting fittings off an old boat typically introduces issues and awkward access. But folks here have done it and will help.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If your 26 has the EY standard shroud connector U-Bolt attachment on the deck, there are threads about that like this one:
Note that reasonably priced replacements are available from Garhauer.
And yes, it's been long enough to need to rebed the fittings. Best to do the "over drill, epoxy fill, redrill" procedure. I just did this for our chainplate deck fittings. Our balsa coring was dry, but there is no guarantee that yours is still dry -- you might also be lucky. :)
 

Mr. Scarlett

Member III
I have heard titanium replacements thrown around here and there, but can't recall a vendor.
Something I have seen is a thin plinth (1/4" ish) slightly larger than the metal flashing permanently fixed to the deck where the chainplate comes out. The metal trim is bedded to it. This raises the point of ingress above your typical running/standing water.

Of course this won't work if that flat metal piece is attached to the chainplate itself as your old holes won't line up.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
I second what Paul wrote…

I’m not crazy about butyl tape but one of the places I it worked very well for me was under those slotted covers.
 
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