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    Fund Raising Season 2020-2021 is Now Open!

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    Notice on 2020-2021 Fund Raising

Chesapeake Ericson club

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
And now the first of many winter projects begins,

Mid-October and replacing Polybutylene water lines with Pex, not because I needed another project but because last weekend I filled my bow water tank before I left and 6 hours later I had little to no water at the sink. When I popped open the bow water tank compartment I found water alright, it just wasn't in the tank.

Mark "Souleman" Soule
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Project - replace water lines Ericson 1983 E30+
Removed and replace water line and overflow line from bow water tank to starboard tank outlet with Pex. simple enough
Remove and replace water line from starboard outlet to water pump - Not so simple

On Discovery, the water line starts at the starboard tank outlet, rund up and over the water tank, then dives down along the side and then dives under the floor boards. From this point until it comes out behind the battery box the water line traverses under the navigation desk. Because of the U shaped path and the line comes out behind the battery box with maybe 3 inches to get a hand in position, it is impossible to pull the line through.

Fix - Used a RIGID Multi-tool with 4 oscillating blades, cut 2 foot by 4 foot fiberglass skin away from starboard water tank to get at water line
Fix - marked 1 foot by 2 foot rectangle on navigation floor, drilled 4 2 inches holes at corners of rectangle and using a key hole saw, cut through the 1 1/2" board that makes up the navigation floor.

Next - behind the battery box where the water line ends is a T. One line goes to the water pump, the other to the Whale foot pump under the galley sink. This line is nylon meshed high water pressure hose. The foot pump line goes under the battery box, crosses the salon then into the foot pump.

Fix - Where the water line comes out behind the battery box. put a 90 degree elbow and relocated the T fitting against the hull for easier access.
Now replace nylon mesh lines.

Next - Whale foot pump is not secured -
Fix - Remove Whale pump and dissemble and use Repair kit to update pump. Secure pump to SS stand with SS bolts and reattach water lines.

Cost -
25 feet Pex - $14.00
Pex cutting tool - $15.00
Sharkbite male thread to 1/2" Pex adaptor - $15.00 X 3 - $45.00
Sharkbite 90 degree elbow - $8.00
Nylon mesh water line - 20 feet = $1.50 ft = $30.00

Misc.
bruises and cuts on both hands, arms and elbows
strained back due to boat yoga

Note: the Starboard side is the most difficult due to the path. The Port side will be much easier

Mark "Souleman" Soule
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Project - replace water lines Ericson 1983 E30+
Removed and replace water line and overflow line from bow water tank to starboard tank outlet with Pex. simple enough
Remove and replace water line from starboard outlet to water pump - Not so simple

On Discovery, the water line starts at the starboard tank outlet, rund up and over the water tank, then dives down along the side and then dives under the floor boards. From this point until it comes out behind the battery box the water line traverses under the navigation desk. Because of the U shaped path and the line comes out behind the battery box with maybe 3 inches to get a hand in position, it is impossible to pull the line through.

Fix - Used a RIGID Multi-tool with 4 oscillating blades, cut 2 foot by 4 foot fiberglass skin away from starboard water tank to get at water line
Fix - marked 1 foot by 2 foot rectangle on navigation floor, drilled 4 2 inches holes at corners of rectangle and using a key hole saw, cut through the 1 1/2" board that makes up the navigation floor.

Next - behind the battery box where the water line ends is a T. One line goes to the water pump, the other to the Whale foot pump under the galley sink. This line is nylon meshed high water pressure hose. The foot pump line goes under the battery box, crosses the salon then into the foot pump.

Fix - Where the water line comes out behind the battery box. put a 90 degree elbow and relocated the T fitting against the hull for easier access.
Now replace nylon mesh lines.

Next - Whale foot pump is not secured -
Fix - Remove Whale pump and dissemble and use Repair kit to update pump. Secure pump to SS stand with SS bolts and reattach water lines.

Cost -
25 feet Pex - $14.00
Pex cutting tool - $15.00
Sharkbite male thread to 1/2" Pex adaptor - $15.00 X 3 - $45.00
Sharkbite 90 degree elbow - $8.00
Nylon mesh water line - 20 feet = $1.50 ft = $30.00

Misc.
bruises and cuts on both hands, arms and elbows
strained back due to boat yoga

Note: the Starboard side is the most difficult due to the path. The Port side will be much easier

Mark "Souleman" Soule
Good work, Mark!! That's not easy work, and requires lots of problem solving to figure out the best approach. Sounds like you got it figured!
Frank
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Hi Frank thought I would hear from you.

The problem with projects is you find new projects.. Lying on the salon floor the stench of oil and diesel ended up coming home with me.
I want to rip up that floor and clean in the worst way. :oops:
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Mark,
Why do you have so much pool and diesel smell? Unless it's especially bad, it shouldn't need ripping up the floor, just lots of detergent, sailing to slosh it around the bilge and hull a few times, emptying it and disposing of it in an environmentally way. If you have a fuel or oil leak, that would need attention first.
Frank
 

Navman

Member III
Sorry about that last response. It seems it sent before I was finished. The Optimist II has been on the hard at Haven Harbour South having some gel coat touch up work and painting done and both rub rails replaced. At this point in time I do not think I will splash her in order to get another 4 or 5 weekends of sailing. I just may keep her at HHS for the winter. We will have to see when the rails arrive. In the meantime stay safe and sail on! ~~_/)
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Frank - The oil and diesel spills occurred long before I bought Discovery, along with the holding tank spills due to the PO not emptying the holding tank.

Replacing the salon flooring is a future project and when that is done, there will be oil clean up, bilge painting, and re-wiring to do. Oh Joy, cann't wait.

She's like my marriage - gotta take care of her, the rewards are unbelievable.

Mark "Souleman" Soule
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Navman - let me know how the rail rubs go. I am finding slow leaks I think originate from the joints.

Let me know when your in HHS, I believe they have beer on tap.
:D
Mark "Souleman" Soule
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Mark,
It's a pity the previous owner didn't attend to those things to prevent unnecessary problems. Once you get to replacing the floor boards that will give you a good look at wiring, plumbing, etc, a bit of silver lining to a work intensive project. But these boats are worth it, like a marriage as you mentioned.
I noticed your post to Nav man above about rub rail leaks. On my boat I found a few of the screws holding the rub rail came thru the hull and leaked. Fixing those three solved my rub rail leaks - - just a thought in case that's also the cause of your leaks.
Frank
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Thanks Frank, While I was doing boat yoga this weekend I noticed weeping along the hull and figured the rub rail and joint needed to be on the project list. As an after thought, I spend more money on Discovery than my wife which leads me to ask which is better for my wallet?

Mark
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Mark,
It's my understanding that the deck / hull joint on our boats is fibreglassed over, to ensure no leaks. If that's the case, and there's no caulking to fail, one would think there must be some other reason for the leaks. Puzzling...
Frank
 

Navman

Member III
Perhaps someone used screws which were too long. I know when I did repairs on my rubrail The screw length stuck in my mind as I thought, "that's all the bigger the screws are?" I was expecting something longer but I don't even think they were more than 1" long. Christian may have some more definitive input as he replaced his rub rails himself so would have an "intimate" knowledge of what length screws were used.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Mark,
It's my understanding that the deck / hull joint on our boats is fibreglassed over, to ensure no leaks. If that's the case, and there's no caulking to fail, one would think there must be some other reason for the leaks. Puzzling...
Frank

I've found the fiberglassing on the interior side of the hull-deck joint was not waterproof, especially after 35 years of occasional docks and pylon contact.

On the exterior I had to grind out the loose material and found the seam cracked through in numerous places. Used the multitool to open up the joint, ran tape along the bottom side, then fill the joint with TotalBoat FlexPoxy, which is about the consistency of thick honey. Worked as much epoxy in as possible with a popsicle stick and then pulled the tape up so the epoxy wouldn't drain down the exterior. This actually made a pretty good cast outer surface to then sand and paint.

Beyond the multitool at the left edge of the photo is the open joint I'd not yet gotten to. You can see where the screws had also gone all the way through and each was a water path.


Pulling the tape off a couple days later:


Again, the trick is to run tape along the bottom of the joint before using the epoxy, so you pull the tape up without the goo running down the hull.
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Moderator
Boat Projects - You gotta love em - I think I'll send out another CBEC newsletter to schedule the next virtual meeting and include this discussion.

Mark "Souleman" Soule
 

gc_sailor

Rule of Thumb, Electric E34-2
Frank - The oil and diesel spills occurred long before I bought Discovery, along with the holding tank spills due to the PO not emptying the holding tank.

Replacing the salon flooring is a future project and when that is done, there will be oil clean up, bilge painting, and re-wiring to do. Oh Joy, cann't wait.

She's like my marriage - gotta take care of her, the rewards are unbelievable.

Mark "Souleman" Soule
This was part of the reason I pulled the diesel and installed electric, removed the holding tank and installed a composting toilet. Never again to have these odors and environmental contaminants floating about. Took about 6 months to finally have all hints of diesel and oil removed from the boat. Last year has been just what I was hoping for!
 

JPS27

Member III
"Electric motors and conversion thereto", that would be a interesting topic for a Chesapeake zoom meeting.
 

gc_sailor

Rule of Thumb, Electric E34-2
We have a couple of electric powered Ericsons in the group. I'd be happy to do a virtual walk-thru of my boat as long as I have broadband. Hoping to depart Bodkin Creek and the Chesapeake for southern waters some time next week, weather dependent.
 
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