Cockpit drains - once more...

[ref_123]

Hi all,

I know the subject came up more then once... Still want to ask more questions on it .

Would it be terribly wrong if I "tee" the pair of cockpit drain hoses- the ones eventually ending up below the waterline - with those crossed over and draining above the waterline? This will allow to drain the cockpit efficiently in the rain and keep the BWL seacock closed. Underway offshore I keep it open anyway.

Seems like nobody did it or at least noone wrote about it....

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Stan

E32-3 1986 Fire Eater

 

[rwthomas1]

I looked into doing this on my E38 and decided against it. Assuming you have the T shaped cockpit that I do, the lower part of it will not drain when heeled without the below waterline setup. You could T into the above waterline drains but you will have a puddle if you take water in the cockpit and remain heeled. My main concern was that on my boat the engine gauges and controls would be partially underwater on a port tack if I did this mod. So I let it be.

The below waterline drain is particularly problematic if the boat winters in the water like mine does. I do not EVER leave that seacock open and certainly not in freezing conditions. Problem is, the hose fills with water, freezes and pops off the T fitting, deck fittings, etc. The solution is to flush with antifreeze, close the seacock, fill hose to the top and then seal the drains with rubber corks. The two remaining above waterline drains do the job just fine and remain ice-free since they drain completely.

RT

 

[ref_123]

Good point...

Thanks Rob. I see your point. Looks like there is no good solution really .

I just do not like that the water stands in the cockpit when it's raining. What adds to the problem is that the pair of scuppers that drain AWL are slightly raised - probably 1/16 of an inch or so.

I'll see if I can at least buy a pair of flush-mount scuppers... Any advice on these? Brands/materials? Those that I've seen so far are not very different from mine - apparently the idea is to dremmel out a bevel or shelf of some sort in the deck so that the flange is level with the gelcoat. Much too delicate an operation for my humble skills...

Regards,
Stan

 

[rwthomas1]

Ah, I see your problem. My scuppers are below flush, molded into the deck and have Perko grates on them that are still slightly below the deck surface. I would think that recessing yours so they are flush would work well. RT

 

[Loren Beach]

Hi Stan,
Some thoughts.... the two cockpit drain moldings in our boat are slightly recessed. So no water accumulation around a lip.
If yours has no recess and you just want a "flatter lip" for less water retention, how about going with a replacement utilizing a flat SS flanged threaded fittlng. With the much higher tensile strength of the SS it would likely be a lot less flange on top.

Best,
Loren