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DC circuit breakers

L

lulugrace

Member I
Hello All,

I have an Ericson 35 mkIII 1988 and everything works on the DC panel except apparently the instruments switch. It worked before but now it appears it is not sending 12v power to the 4 instruments; wind direction, relative wind, depth, and knots. I suspect the circuit breaker has quit since all other switches are functional on the panel but I don't know what kind of breaker to replace it with? Is there a certain model or type and amperage that I should get and does anyone know if this info is on the existing breaker so I can order a new one?

The Lulu Grace i.e. Dan
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
When you remove the errant breaker, the amp rating should be printed on the side. Removal is tedious... I have a little "right angle" screwdriver for parts like that. Be *sure* to unplug shore power before doing any work on that panel backside.
Here is a link to a very similar tool.
www.penntoolco.com

General Ratchet Offset Screwdriver - 807SX

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
www.penntoolco.com www.penntoolco.com
 
W

wynkoop

Member III
If it is a DC breaker as you said make sure to turn off the DC power at your battery switch! Failure to do so may result in smoke escaping from wire harnesses and other unpleasant things.
 
W

wynkoop

Member III
If you can not find a rating on the breaker you can add up the current draw of each individual piece of equipment on that circuit and buy a breaker that is slightly larger than the total current draw of the devices.
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
E381-panel complete.JPG
click to expand

If you have these steel panel breakers, here's a source:

This era of Ericsons used heavy, metal-toggle circuit breakers no longer manufactured by AMF/Wood. There's room for 15. I recognized them from aircraft I used to fly and their secure feel contributed to the appeal of saving the original panel. Exact replacements are available at $40 through Custom Marine Services in Murrells Inlet, S.C. Mickey Spillane used to live there ("I, the Jury"; they don't make book titles like that no more). http://cmsquick.com/prod_24_W1.html

If your boat is like mine, the breakers are covered in ground wires and it takes some digging to change them. (As I recall the breakers don't come out one-at-a-time, but in groups of maybe four). I relocated the grounds, but otherwise you may have to unhook the grounds for breaker access. While in there you can also easily replace any busted function lamps, which will be revealed at that time.
 
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Pat C.

Pat C.

Member III
I replaced mine thru a company called Digikey, they are PB switches, I think it stands for Potter Brumsfield. The info was posted on this site years ago, that's how I knew where to look. The amperage of the switch in question is stamped on the end of the toggle. They are thermal switches, and they do have a lifespan, no surprise when they go out. Think they are still used in aviation.
 
klb67pgh

klb67pgh

Member III
Pat C. said:
I replaced mine thru a company called Digikey, they are PB switches, I think it stands for Potter Brumsfield. The info was posted on this site years ago, that's how I knew where to look. The amperage of the switch in question is stamped on the end of the toggle. They are thermal switches, and they do have a lifespan, no surprise when they go out. Think they are still used in aviation.
Click to expand...
"No surprise when they go out" as in as long as the circuit is functioning, then the thermal breaker is good? I've been investigating the original switches and overall DC system on my E25 (with some added wire here and there by the original or second owner, some good, some lamp wire :oops:). I assumed until today that they were just toggle switches and not breakers, but a quick search of the model numbers on their sides revealed otherwise - I have original amf & wood circuit breakers, mostly 5 amp, 20 amp for the master, 15 amp for the cabin lights, and 10 amp for the search light plug at the port aft combing in the cockpit.

I was hoping to deploy funds on standing rigging and other items, and not a new DC panel if I don't have to - thoughts on whether it's safe to keep using these if the circuits work? I'm converting the rest of the boat's incandescent bulbs to LED and not adding new loads. No AC panel. No inboard motor or charging system for the outboard, so pretty simple. Just 1 Group 27 battery for now. I'm going to add a 30 watt solar panel and charge controller to top the battery off during the week.
 
Tin Kicker

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
klb67pgh said:
"No surprise when they go out" as in as long as the circuit is functioning, then the thermal breaker is good? I've been investigating the original switches and overall DC system on my E25 (with some added wire here and there by the original or second owner, some good, some lamp wire :oops:). I assumed until today that they were just toggle switches and not breakers, but a quick search of the model numbers on their sides revealed otherwise - I have original amf & wood circuit breakers, mostly 5 amp, 20 amp for the master, 15 amp for the cabin lights, and 10 amp for the search light plug at the port aft combing in the cockpit.

I was hoping to deploy funds on standing rigging and other items, and not a new DC panel if I don't have to - thoughts on whether it's safe to keep using these if the circuits work? I'm converting the rest of the boat's incandescent bulbs to LED and not adding new loads. No AC panel. No inboard motor or charging system for the outboard, so pretty simple. Just 1 Group 27 battery for now. I'm going to add a 30 watt solar panel and charge controller to top the battery off during the week.
Click to expand...

Functioning of the switch does not mean the breaker will trip within design parameters. I worked with the Air Force Research Electronics Failure Lab at one point and it seems to me the Chief said that they did a project looking at rate of breakers outside of spec the military had for older ones (they have LOTS of old airplanes) and were shocked at how bad it was. They found them to trip both low and high. Almost all were breakers, and not breaker switches.

On a sailboat like these, you could easily rig a battery and variable resistor if you wanted to do a test, but I personally just have a few extra breakers in the various ratings.
 
RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
This thread got me thinking.
DC panel is at home getting the brass buss bars replaced and a new battery switch to seperate batteries along with an ACR.
Decided to upgrade a few 5A breakers and would be nice to replace all of the panel lamps as well.

Does anyone have a good source for drop in lights?
 
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