Does Solenoid for Glow Plugs Make a Difference? [and Troubleshooting Installation]

[1911tex]

I guess I'm confused regarding a solenoid to solve glow plug problems. On cold start, I push the glow plug button for 10-12 seconds while listening to the buzzer, then at the same time push starter button. The engine starts so quick, cannot hear the starter, maybe 1/2 revolution. From near freezing temps during the winter to the brutal Texas August. I typically restart a warm engine without pushing the glow plug button..instant starts. Temps stay between 180-190. Not tooting my horn...but Please, what am I missing in these 40 posts?

I've done all the recommended basic wiring mods.

 

[Christian Williams]

The second stud on top of the CH solenoid

Ugh. I grounded the base, which is wrong, as noted in the subtle second line of the literature below. Oh well, the CH can become the spare.

• Continuous Duty Solenoid SPST 12V 85A
• 4 stud, Insulated stud earth
• SPST Normally open (one circuit) OFF/ON
• Copper Stud terminals 5/16″-24
• Insulated Coil terminals 10-32
• Plated steel housing, nuts & washers Inc.
• Mounting holes 8mm x 15mm, 56mm CTC
• Mount with brand cap facing DOWN
• Int. ratings: 10 sec ON, 30 min OFF

The Ford model T solenoid [Masterpro Ignition 2SS3] does work (and yeah, in the case of the Masterpro the ground is the base). This morning, a cool morning here, required 10 seconds of glow plug for a confident start. Formerly it was 20 seconds, and sometimes another 10 seconds required. Voltmeter now shows half a volt loss upon mashing the GP button.

 

[Christian Williams]

Please, what am I missing in these 40 posts?

Tex, three years ago my 5432 was hard to start, 30-60 seconds glow required, or more--in 60 degrees F.

I had the injectors serviced. Spray pattern was OK, they recommended changing the caps for $50 each. Immediately starting was almost instantaneous.

But lately the glow time required crept back up. Hence the solenoid, which appears to have worked. Probably yanking the injectors again would have also worked.

We're told that diesels by nature can be "hard" to start--apparently the small price of no spark plugs. I have a hunch that the way we use our boats can degrade easy starting over time. Kind of a mystery, since they're so user friendly. Man, if yours starts in 10 seconds, no problem. But as you know, the old Ericson manual recommends 30-60 seconds on glow. Which most don't even need, 35 years later.

 

[cruis-n]

I guess I'm confused regarding a solenoid to solve glow plug problems. On cold start, I push the glow plug button for 10-12 seconds while listening to the buzzer, then at the same time push starter button. The engine starts so quick, cannot hear the starter, maybe 1/2 revolution. From near freezing temps during the winter to the brutal Texas August. I typically restart a warm engine without pushing the glow plug button..instant starts. Temps stay between 180-190. Not tooting my horn...but Please, what am I missing in these 40 posts?

I've done all the recommended basic wiring mods.

It's not so much a starting issue. In my case, the relatively high current and length of the run made the decision to install the solenoid a no-brainer. The 'trailer connectors' in the wiring harness had become a melty mess. Replacing the connectors with terminal strips with properly crimped ring terminals at each end. Eliminating the relatively high current loop to drive the glow plugs was the determining factor in my case. Made the change ~10 years ago and never looked back.

Paul (also in TX)

 

[jtsai]

Success after I re-wired the grounding. The second stud on top of the CH solenoid is used for the ground, exactly what Ken stated.
Everyone was correct and I notice a difference immediately.

I am going through this project right now. Good to read all the lessons about grounding this CH solenoid. Can someone clarify which one of the smaller studs on the CH solenoid is for ground? Is it the 2 o'clock or 4 o'clock position in the attache picture? Thank you.

 

[Christian Williams]

I think yours is the same as my new one. Of the two ground terminals, "the ground is the one that works." As I recall only one will, dependent upon other factors, so experiment. Success is a loud click as the circuit is enabled.

 

[Kenneth K]

It shouldn't matter which of the small posts you use--one needs positive, one needs a ground, and together they power the coil that activates the solenoid.

In fact, the mfg instructions (see post #42) say to "mount with the brand cap facing down," (which most people don't do because it looks funny).

If you flip the unit upside-down (versus the picture you show), the "2 o'clock and 4 o'clock" poles become reversed in the process. Seems to work either way...

 

[patrscoe]

Mine stopped making the 'clicking' noise but still appears to work...then again, it is not terrible cold right now. Is this normal and if not, how to check if the solenoid is working besides removing a glow plug?

 

[Dave G.]

how to check if the solenoid is working besides removing a glow plug?

I usually just check my voltage gauge drops when depressing the glow plug button. If you don't have a gauge you could use a multimeter to check for same.

 

[JSM]

Had to look this up after re installing my engine. Here's a simple diagram if using a 4 pin relay.
Pin 85 to glow plug switch.
Pin 86 to ground (on engine block).
Pin 87 to glow plugs.
Pin 30 to + terminal on starter.

Relays are dirt cheap at any auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J53IH5M/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=0fe615bfb68b6f69c7ac1bc67126285b&hsa_cr_id=6122242090101&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=cf5fb4a6-dd60-4fb4-8a2b-35471d870706&pd_rd_w=FoBh8&pd_rd_wg=LP2sm&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_title&th=1

 

[Christian Williams]

Re "does it work?", the voltage drop obvious--but my "Ford-type solenoid" also clicks so loud on initiation that I can hear if from the cockpit, which is extremely satisfying. And I think it does make a difference.

By the way, regarding starting a diesel: For years, I depressed the glow plug button for, say, 20 seconds, and then found the engine didn't want to start right away. So, I applied another session of glow plug. Sometimes three or four or five glow sessions were required. I would always release the starter-motor button if the engine didn;t start in about five seconds.

Yeah, well. Case of premature release. Now I keep the starter motor working while the engine coughs during its initial revolutions, sometimes as long as 20 seconds if it's cold. Works like a charm to assist the start. I don't know why I didn't discover this technique earlier. The reason for "short bursts" of the starter is to avoid running down the battery. But we have relatively big battery banks, and keeping the starter going a bit longer than usual won't hurt it, I am told.

Anyhow, here's my $20 solenoid install:

 

[JSM]

Re "does it work?"

Works like a champ ! Relay has been in place for two seasons now. Used to have to hold the glow plug button for what seemed like an eternity, now a slow ten count and she fires right up.

 

[Parrothead]

Worthless trivia regarding diesels, cold starting aids and glow plugs:

The Perkins 4-107 four cylinder diesel had a single glow plug mounted in the air intake plenum right below the air cleaner. It worked in conjunction with a solenoid valve that when activated would squirt a little diesel fuel into the intake, the glow plug would ignite it and engaging the starter would suck the fire right into the cylinders.

I can't report on how effective it was because in my climate I never needed an aid to start the engine thank goodness. The whole idea gave me the willies.

 

[Ruckus.adrift]

I used to have to hold my glow plug button for a minute when I first got my boat, and often then it wouldn't even fire first go - now that I have a relay I hold it for 10-15 seconds and she starts perfectly. Totally worth it!