Dual Racor System?

[N.A.]

A friend (with a Catalina 42) has a very handy dual-Racor system in his (comparatively huge) engine compartment. Picture below.

When his engine stared to back one time on the water, he just went down and flipped the vale lever, while the engine was running, and had a fresh clean Racor in line, engine started working fine, and he had plenty of time to replace the clogged one. [The pressure gauge allows one to tell how much resistance the filter is giving -- how clean it is.]

I want to do this, since when I need the engine I am (around here) most likely trying to avoid a huge ship or in a narrow channel. No time to mess with fixing the filter under pressure even in calm water. And the only engine failure I've had was due to air in the line from an incorrectly installed filter (not by me -- I had just bought the boat. But I am completely capable of messing that up...)

So:

1. Does anyone here have something like this installed?

2. My E34 engine compartment is tiny. This thing doesn't fit in there. I was thinking of relocating it to above the forward-bulkhead/shelf in the stern berth (a berth which I do not use except for storage, and is right on the other side of the engine compartment.)
--> Is that a bad idea?
[In the engine compartment, a leak goes into the bilge. In the stern berth, into the... berth. I am not sure which is worse, really.]

3. I have heard some Racors have pumps on them to fill them up with fuel after you replace the filter, thus avoiding all the "fill it up while boat rocks back and forth and you try to avoid the hot engine parts with your body" fun.
--> Do any of you have these? What model is it? Advice?

Many thanks!

Image of the system I'm talking about:




PS: These threads are relevant but don't address the dual-racor or pump-top racor questions... I chose to start a new thread.

@Prairie Schooner comments on something like this, only using different filters:
" I suppose in place of the engine mounted filter someone could also just install a second Racor. That would give more flexibility in choosing micron level for the filtration."

Installing a new Racor 500 on an E32

The brown rusty stuff is likely diesel fuel algae/bacteria sludge. You'll probably want to check the tank. I believe it grows as a result of water getting in the fuel. As far as getting water in the fuel, this is probably as good a time as any to mention that changing the O-ring on the fuel...

ericsonyachts.org

and @vanilladuck has a long discussion of racor replacement here:

E32-3 - Fuel System Refit with a Racor 500

Intro When I started thinking about the fuel system on Rumour, I realized there were a few things to consider. I heard a number of recommendations to remove the old metal fuel supply lines and check or replace the old Racor 200 series primary...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Loren Beach]

You are off to a start on re-imaging where that filter or plural filters might go. How about an out-of-the-way corner in the lazaret? Once you run the new fuel hoses, the filter can be in many other places. Personally, I would not sacrifice the aft berth to the possibility of a fuel spill.
A few years ago, looking at our boat with 'fresh eyes' I found a much better place for our Racor 500 just outside the engine compartment, as noted in a blog entry.

Sometimes a solution is indeed challenging to imagine.
(I am reminded of the old saying that the lost formula to make gold from base metal will only occur to a person after they completely clear their mind of the word "alligator" !
Props to a former coworker with a wonderful and sharp sense of humor for that saying, and many others!)

 

[Prairie Schooner]

A friend (with a Catalina 42) has a very handy dual-Racor system in his (comparatively huge) engine compartment. Picture below.

When his engine stared to back one time on the water, he just went down and flipped the vale lever, while the engine was running, and had a fresh clean Racor in line, engine started working fine, and he had plenty of time to replace the clogged one. [The pressure gauge allows one to tell how much resistance the filter is giving -- how clean it is.]

I want to do this, since when I need the engine I am (around here) most likely trying to avoid a huge ship or in a narrow channel. No time to mess with fixing the filter under pressure even in calm water. And the only engine failure I've had was due to air in the line from an incorrectly installed filter (not by me -- I had just bought the boat. But I am completely capable of messing that up...)

So:

1. Does anyone here have something like this installed?

2. My E34 engine compartment is tiny. This thing doesn't fit in there. I was thinking of relocating it to above the forward-bulkhead/shelf in the stern berth (a berth which I do not use except for storage, and is right on the other side of the engine compartment.)
--> Is that a bad idea?
[In the engine compartment, a leak goes into the bilge. In the stern berth, into the... berth. I am not sure which is worse, really.]

3. I have heard some Racors have pumps on them to fill them up with fuel after you replace the filter, thus avoiding all the "fill it up while boat rocks back and forth and you try to avoid the hot engine parts with your body" fun.
--> Do any of you have these? What model is it? Advice?

Many thanks!

Image of the system I'm talking about:

View attachment 54009


PS: These threads are relevant but don't address the dual-racor or pump-top racor questions... I chose to start a new thread.

@Prairie Schooner comments on something like this, only using different filters:
" I suppose in place of the engine mounted filter someone could also just install a second Racor. That would give more flexibility in choosing micron level for the filtration."

Installing a new Racor 500 on an E32

The brown rusty stuff is likely diesel fuel algae/bacteria sludge. You'll probably want to check the tank. I believe it grows as a result of water getting in the fuel. As far as getting water in the fuel, this is probably as good a time as any to mention that changing the O-ring on the fuel...

ericsonyachts.org

and @vanilladuck has a long discussion of racor replacement here:

E32-3 - Fuel System Refit with a Racor 500

Intro When I started thinking about the fuel system on Rumour, I realized there were a few things to consider. I heard a number of recommendations to remove the old metal fuel supply lines and check or replace the old Racor 200 series primary...

ericsonyachts.org

My response was to the idea of relocating the engine mounted secondary fuel filter. I always buy a NAPA replacement for that one and it's difficult to change. Contemplating its relocation got me thinking it wouldn't even need to be the old style filter. But that's different from adding an additional auxiliary primary fuel filter, which is what you seem to be discussing.

Your proposal seems like a good idea. It's like deciding how much insurance you need and whether it's worth about $1,500. The pressure gauge is a nice touch, giving an objective metric. Would the reading vary by engine RPM?

Another factor is controlling how much impurity gets into the tank in the first place, something I refer to in your thread about siphoning. I'm wary of what comes out of a dockside diesel pump.

The old 300 series Racor we took out of our boat (cracked collection bowl) had the finger pump to fill it and the 200 series we put in does not. The pump was tedious to use and I find that with the lift pump and bleed valve I can fill the filter housing in short order.

 

[ConchyDug]

Dual 500s is a lot of filter for a small fuel flow rate engine. I've only dealt with dual setups in powerboats. Reading the tech specs on the 500 is eye opening(60gph). I have a single 500 but I didn't buy it for it's filter capacity, I bought it because changing filters on them is very simple. If you can clog a 500 with the fuel flow rate of 25hp diesel you have a major contamination issue that didn't happen overnight. Regular filter changes and bulk fuel storage best practices make these dual systems unnecessary in small sailboats. Now doing a dual system for those screw on filters might be worth it since they are much smaller and a pain to swap over in a cramped space.

 

[toddster]

I am in the process of building such a system. Using two of the smaller R12 Racor housings and a six-port valve. Should cost about a tenth the amount of the big "turbo" system. I have been caught out twice (!) crossing west coast bars when the fuel filter suddenly clogged and shut down the engine. Installed position of the (single) filter housing was under the aft cabin bunk. Remove all cargo, remove mattresses, reach back under and change filter by touch. Change underwear. On the Columbia River Bar, I was able to get in under sail. On the Humboldt Bay bar, I did the fastest filter change and engine bleed in history. Then designed this system.

Schematic:

Panel Layout:

(I'm also installing an auxiliary fuel tank - getting the jerry cans off the deck.) I am not sure that the priming pump(s) are necessary, but I'm raising the elevation of the filter(s) about three feet, so putting them in the install kit just in case. I also have an electric Facet pump that might do the job with a select valve.

A couple of notes:

Cheap Chinese knockoffs of the filter and housing can be found on Amazon & etc for a tenth the cost of the Racor housing. A bit of research reveals that these use some Chinese pipe-thread sizing that is not compatible with any fitting that you can buy outside of China. (They come with a couple of hose barb fittings but that's not sufficient for this project.) They will always leak with US fittings. Also, the filter bowl seems to be made of some cheap material that will eventually dissolve in fuel. (They sell filters with new bowls.) Reluctantly, I decided that this is something one needs to pay full price for.

The only six-port valves that are actually available seem to be the Groco ones, which are a bit oversized for a small engine, and kind of expensive. Actually there are relatively cheap plastic ones made for Ford pickups that are electrically operated and may be suitable. But I thought that maybe there is a reason that there are so many third-party replacement units on the market... Decided to stick with the reliable manual valve. The remotely operated electric valve would really simplify the tank plumbing though.

The housings do have a bleed screw built in, so no real need to add a purge valve or return. However if I use the electric lift pump, will need valves on the input. The problem is purging the off-line filter when it is switched out and exchanged for a fresh one. A completely separate fuel input is needed. Or resort to the old method of going out on deck, unlashing a jerry can, and bringing it back to fill the new filter, trying not to spill too much while the boat is pitching around. No thank you.

The nice thing about the Racor vacuum gauge is that it has a drag needle to show the highest vacuum reached when the engine was running (so you can check the filter condition before setting out the next day) and a set needle, that you point to the vacuum value that causes engine shut-down. Empirically determined, I guess. You can save some money with a non-Racor gauge but I would (did) definitely get one with a drag needle. The critical shut-down value can be marked with a piece of tape or a sharpie mark.

Anyhow, it's still just a box of parts at the moment. Cooling my heels waiting for my new tank to be delivered.

 

[toddster]

BTW: (some) Racor stuff up to 50% off at West Marine at the moment.

 

[Angel D.]

I had started making a dual recor set up , clearly home made but it's not fully installed yet . Can't testify if it's a good idea but will soon find out. Have a nice spot mounted and just need to run fuel lines and test it . Unfortunately have not the time to work on it lately. Like every other thing on my boat it's been put together by mostly salvage parts from other boats and trips to the hardware store. When I test the system will make a post about it with the details.

 

[Christian Williams]

I think one 500 would be enough. If accessible, much easier to change filter than the 200 series.

Rather than go to two, I would consider installing an inspection port and hand-cleaning the tank.

You might even need only one port, and all that means is jig-sawing a hole in the aluminum and covering it with a plate. A weekend job, within ability of any of us.

 

[Angel D.]

I think one 500 would be enough. If accessible, much easier to change filter than the 200 series.

Rather than go to two, I would consider installing an inspection port and hand-cleaning the tank.

That inspection port would be great , I remember seeing that you did that to your 38 and clean the tank by hand to make Shure is clean ( that's a dream come true )
I saw this on another boat and thought it be a good idea . But as our friend said, it was a 6 cyl Detroit engine and perhaps this is overkill. Although who knows , there is bad and dirty diesel out there at the islands . Never know what you going to get.

 

[southofvictor]

My experience this summer on someone else’s boat with a dual filter setup sort of turned me off to the idea. Boat had the option to switch between a Racor 500 and a smaller screw-on style filter. We got down to some stirred up dirty fuel and both filters started clogging quickly. It was easier to just keep replacing the 500 filter than switch back and forth and mess with the screw-on one. Maybe with two 500s it would be different but it seemed like once the fuel was dirty enough to clog the 500 switching back and forth had limited value. Anyway, that’s my 0.02.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I really think the dual filter arrangement is a power boat thing for large engines requiring large amounts of fuel and fully dependent on power. I think in a well maintained fuel system (meaning that you actually have a good idea about the internal conditions in your tank) it is unnecessary and adds a level of complication to small diesels. I agree that an inspection plate would be ideal (presuming it gives you access to the corners of the tank) but that removing the sending unit (which is generally over the lowest point of the tank) can give you an idea of the level of gunk or water in the lowest part. To me, over the last 50 years of boat ownership, clean fuel tanks and systems have been good to me. In my early years of delivering boats, I still recall the owner advising me that there was a case of 10 micron (!) filters aboard in case I had a problem that he said happened "now and then". Nigel Calder's bible of maintenance suggests inspecting your tank annually through the sending unit hole, making sure you have a good O ring on the deck fitting, keeping the tank as full as possible, and using something to kill stuff that might grow. I do this and have never had a problem with water or gunk in 35 years of ownership and quite a few miles. It is not difficult to keep a tank and system clean, it just takes some preventive attention.

 

[toddster]

Leading cause of death on west coast bar crossings is "sudden loss of power." Boats get shaken thoroughly. Similar situations happen escaping previously-idyllic reef-lined anchorages when foul weather moves in. (Arguably, robust anchoring and staying put is the best move...) Stuff you didn't even know was way up behind the baffle is suddenly sucked across the pick up tube. Some big power boat was at the fuel dock just before you, almost sucked the dock dry and left you with the dregs. Do you use the Baja filter every time? Whatever. It happens. You have seconds to save the boat and maybe your life.
Well, day-sailing in fair weather, you may likely never see any of those scenarios. When you are cruising full time, sooner or later you may need those few seconds.
I assume, now that I am going to the trouble, (also adding second tank that can be switched over) it will never happen again. Good enough.

 

[Pete the Cat]

In many boating issues there will always be spirited debate about whether to add more complexity to promote safety or if putting the effort and discipline into aggressive preventive maintenance of simple systems. I think it can be a valid personal choice--it is our risk to assess and bear. My experience is that, in a real emergency, diagnosing what is wrong is the biggest issue and preventing emergencies seems more important than fixing them when they occur--but that means doing maintenance at the dock when you do not have a problem. Yes, I use an aircraft fuel filter (water and grit) at every filling for the last 30 years. Never found anything significant--even in Central American jungle ports in my cruising years there--(fishermen are probably more fussy about fuel than recreational folks), but I keep doing it because it only takes a few minutes longer at each fill up.
About 30 years ago, I had the pickup tube jam with crud in a rolly sea bashing North along Baja California. That one was not resolved until I anchored and sorted it out. Not sure how a second Racor setup would have helped as the problem was in the tank and pickup tube. That is when I got religion about cleaning and regularly inspecting my tanks and keeping them clean. And through my annual inspections, I have learned how to keep them cleaner as I mentioned previously. FWIW.

 

[peaman]

Yes, I use an aircraft fuel filter (water and grit) at every filling for the last 30 years.

Can you describe this more fully?

 

[Pete the Cat]

Can you describe this more fully?

I think they sell them at West Marine (or they used to). Just a black plastic funnel with a screen/membrane at the bottom that catches water and any dirt. I think it was originally designed for aircraft working in questionable areas that found a bigger boating market, but I might be mistaken. I generally buy diesel at a gas station and use a small electric pump to transfer it from a jerry can. It saves a special trip to the fuel dock, allows me to more carefully top off, and stops the competition and rush there in the states, and was often required in my cruising days in other countries. There was a very ornate version called a Baja Filter that was all the cruiser rage in the 1980s--a large metal bong thing that used the same type of filter. I think this was a simplification of that concept. I like to keep my tank filled as much as possible and filling it more often from a jerry can has helped avoid water and crud collection in the tank over the years. I pump the lowest point every year and generally find nothing. I do use Bio Bor, though the marine biologist in the next slip put the black crap from his tank under a powerful microscope and says it is gelatinous tar, not former or current living matter. I generally change my Racor filter every 3 years, but the bowl looks relatively clean even then. FWIW.