My rudder is very shaky and wobbly, Is there a bushing or some sort of sleve that needs changing? If so, is there any one who could enlighten me on how to go about doing this, do I have to haul out or can I do it in the water, Is it a special bushing that I would have to order or can I make It etc. Sure could use some help! Thanks in advance.
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
I had the same problem on my E-27
I had the same problem. When I had the boat hauled for bottom paint I asked the Yard about the problem. They recommended installing a new plastic bushing. Yes they had to drop the rudder with the post connected to it from the bottom of the boat. They then cut the plastic material to the right size and wrapped it around the rudder post and insert it back through the bottom of the boat. I can't tell you what material they used but it was a translucent white thin plastic about a 1/64" thick. The play is much better now.
I had the same problem. When I had the boat hauled for bottom paint I asked the Yard about the problem. They recommended installing a new plastic bushing. Yes they had to drop the rudder with the post connected to it from the bottom of the boat. They then cut the plastic material to the right size and wrapped it around the rudder post and insert it back through the bottom of the boat. I can't tell you what material they used but it was a translucent white thin plastic about a 1/64" thick. The play is much better now.
I had a similar problem on my e-29. It turned out to be the rudder post top cap was loose on the rudder post. The rudder post itself was not loose in the rudder tube. I removed the fitting and made the slot in the cap wider to permit it to be clamped tighter onto the post. I also pressed a bushing into the end of the rudder tube and taped new holes for new bolts.
I hired a diver to assist in removing the rudder. At the time I didn't know if the rudder would sink or float. It turns out the rudder was very bouyant. I could have simply removed the top cap, modified it and reassembled. But I didn't want to risk loosing the rudder. Better safe than sorry.
Good luck!
I hired a diver to assist in removing the rudder. At the time I didn't know if the rudder would sink or float. It turns out the rudder was very bouyant. I could have simply removed the top cap, modified it and reassembled. But I didn't want to risk loosing the rudder. Better safe than sorry.
Good luck!
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
I now have the same problem as Dave.
I now have the same problem as Dave. I hope Seth responds to this. As Dave said, the Rudder is Buoyant. I would like to try the same thing he did and remove the cap and tap a larger hole in both the cap and post. What size tap and new hardware did you use Dave. I also read that new caps were available. I need to get rid of that play so I can get better results from a tiller tamer/minder or tiller pilot.
Advice and Photos of others similar projects would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Skipper, "Pride of Cucamonga'
I now have the same problem as Dave. I hope Seth responds to this. As Dave said, the Rudder is Buoyant. I would like to try the same thing he did and remove the cap and tap a larger hole in both the cap and post. What size tap and new hardware did you use Dave. I also read that new caps were available. I need to get rid of that play so I can get better results from a tiller tamer/minder or tiller pilot.
Advice and Photos of others similar projects would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Skipper, "Pride of Cucamonga'
Hey Jeff,
I drilled and taped for 3/8 bolts, one on each side. Keep in mind that I pressed a bushing into the top end of the rudder post which meant there was more material to thread into. The rudder post itself appeared to be standard schedule 40 pipe, which should be thick enough to hold a few threads but care should be used not to over tighten and strp out the taped holes. It really doesn't need to be very tight to hold the cap in place.
This spring I removed the top cap again to rebed the the deck fitting which was allowing water to leak into the quarterberth below. Again the rudder floated and stayed inplace without any problem!
It really made a big difference to get rid of that slopy fell in the helm. One of the best repairs I've made so far.
Be Brave!
Drill Away!
Dave
I drilled and taped for 3/8 bolts, one on each side. Keep in mind that I pressed a bushing into the top end of the rudder post which meant there was more material to thread into. The rudder post itself appeared to be standard schedule 40 pipe, which should be thick enough to hold a few threads but care should be used not to over tighten and strp out the taped holes. It really doesn't need to be very tight to hold the cap in place.
This spring I removed the top cap again to rebed the the deck fitting which was allowing water to leak into the quarterberth below. Again the rudder floated and stayed inplace without any problem!
It really made a big difference to get rid of that slopy fell in the helm. One of the best repairs I've made so far.
Be Brave!
Drill Away!
Dave
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
Thank You Dave, The drilling will begin. Like the fact the rudder floats.
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
Problem Solved!
Problem Solved! I put on the wet suite and dove under the boat. Secured the rudder at a 180 degree turn with a rope harness and tied it off. Then I removed the bolt holding the tiller cap to the rudder post. I found out there was a lot of wear on the bolt so I simply replaced it with a new bolt that had more shoulder on it. Put it back together and tightened it up. Hardly any slop at all now. I know at some point I may have to drill the holes to add bushings and a larger bolt, but problem solved for now. FYI, a professional boat mechanic quoted me $140 or more for this project.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Jeff, Out
Problem Solved! I put on the wet suite and dove under the boat. Secured the rudder at a 180 degree turn with a rope harness and tied it off. Then I removed the bolt holding the tiller cap to the rudder post. I found out there was a lot of wear on the bolt so I simply replaced it with a new bolt that had more shoulder on it. Put it back together and tightened it up. Hardly any slop at all now. I know at some point I may have to drill the holes to add bushings and a larger bolt, but problem solved for now. FYI, a professional boat mechanic quoted me $140 or more for this project.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Jeff, Out