E23 Mk I rudder slop -- HELP!

[gldrboy]

Dear Gang:

I just bought a 1968 E23 MkI. There are two problems. 1) the rudder post seems to move around a bit in the shaft hole through the hull--somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. How can I correct this? I heard something about wrapping teflon tape around the rudder shaft. Has anyone done this?

2) The cap that is bolted to the rudder shaft (this cap also has the tiller bolted to it) seems to have a lot of side-to-side play in it, as if the bolt holes (3) have elongated in the bronze cap. I was considering having some bushings made up, or making up some epoxy with structural filler and slopping it into the holes. Ideas? Suggestions?

The boat was hauled yesterday--if you have any ideas or suggestions please send them!

Thanks,

Eric

 

[valentor]

Eric;

I had a very similar problem on my E34. There are four screws that hold the bronze tiller head in place. On the underside of the deck, there are washers and nuts tightened on the screws.

Several times each season, it was necessary to climb into the point of the transom and tighten the four nuts while someone held the screwdriver topside.

Chances are that your bearings are fine, but you can check them easily.

On my boat, the holes through the fiberglas and laminated plywood had elongated. This was apparently the result of the screws having to do the work of holding the tiller head in place under the tremendous forces applied.

Filling and re-drilling the holes was only a very temporary solution as they would quickly elongate again. The rudder post motion quickly returned.

My solution was to fabricate an aluminum backing plate, roughly .5" X 4" X 6". In the center, I bored a hole larger than the rudder shaft, then tapped four holes for the screws directly into the aluminum. I then removed the rudder and glassed the plate into the underside of the deck. The screws were used to position the plate while the 'glas cured. Problem solved for about $50.

It also helped to replace the slot head screws with allen head screws that can be torqued (from the top of the deck) much more easily than the slotted screws.

There is still a small amount of motion in the rudder post. However, the Farr 40's, Sydney 38's, and Beneteaus in our boatyard all seem to have similar play (1/16" or so).

Regards;

Steve

 

[ref_123]

Epoxy?

Hi, Eric,

our 32-3 had a close, although not similar, problem with the rudder bearing. Boat yard ended up with putting expoxy there. So far (1 year) it works OK. We did not get into a big seas yet since then though, so I cannot really tell how it will hold under a VERY big load.

Stanly

 

[Jim Payton]

loose tiller

Hi everyone. I have an 1967 E26. I also have a loose tiller head. One of the bolts that holds the head stock on is stripped and I haven't quiet figured out how to solve the problem. There is so much play in the tiller it actually makes me very nervous at times. I have completley removed the head stock and grabbed the rudder post and wiggled it to see if the play was in the post but it didn't seem to move at all. So, I am assuming that most of the play is in the headstock.

 

[dave_g]

When I bought my '71 E29, the tiller head had a lot of slop. Last spring I removed the rudder and took a close look at the head. The holes in the tiller head, for the tiller, were elongated. The holes between the tiller head and the rudder post were not a problem.

My solution was to find standard size bushings and an appropriate size bolt. I then had a machine shop drill the tiller head (and handle) to the correct size and had them press the bushings in the tiller head.

This greatly reduced the slop and when the bushings wear, I can easily replace them again.

 

[Jim Payton]

Ok guys, Check out this web site. They sell tiller heads as well as a lot of other neat stuff.

www.rigrite.com


go to the area called "Hardware"

 

[Mark F]

rudder slop

Hi Eric,
I sent this to your email address but I thought I should post it here also.

I had water coming up around the rudder shaft, mostly while under power. I removed the tiller cap and the brass collar that screws to the cockpit sole then I made a gasket out of some thick rubber gasket material to go under the brass collar. I made the gasket tight around the rudder shaft. This works pretty well for the leak but it really helped the rudder slop.

Mark
E23 mk1

 

[macearth]

Rudder play

My rudder play was in the connection between the tiller and the through haul post. I drilled out the original holes to a slightly larger SS bolt size tightened with some SS lock washers and SS lock nuts and it's been doing much better.

 

[mufflaw]

I too had slop in my rudder and tiller on my '75 E27. The tiller bracket had the elongated holes, I drilled them a size bigger(from 3/8 to 7/16)The rudder post sleeve had a brass or bronze bushing near the bottom of the sleeve, this had worn, leaving a 1/4" of play. While on the hard, I epoxyed a layer of woven mat around the post, from the rudder going up about 8". Then I wrapped wax paper around it while it dryed, this gave it a smooth and even finish. Only a little sanding was needed for a snug fit. Only time will test it, but with woven mat and west epoxy it should last. I should note that the top of the rudder post was snug in the head bracket, the play was only at the bottom.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

I now have the same problem as Dave G.

I now have the same problem as Dave. I hope Seth responds to this. As Dave said, the Rudder is Buoyant. I would like to try the same thing he did and remove the cap and tap a larger hole in both the cap and post without hauling the boat. What size tap and new hardware did you use Dave. I also read that new caps were available. I need to get rid of that play so I can get better results from a tiller tamer/minder or tiller pilot.

Advice and Photos of others similar projects would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Skipper, "Pride of Cucamonga'