E25 rub rail and hull-to-deck joint

davisr

Member III
There are quite a few threads out there that discuss rub rails and hull-to-deck joints. Many people favor Taco, others Wefco as sources for rub rail replacement. The hull-to-deck joint on the E25 appears to be similar in construction to what is found on other boats in the Ericson line.

So, does the E25 rub rail pictured here look familiar?
 

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Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Hi Davisr,

Yes it does look familiar. On Coaster (1968 E23 Mk1) I took a different approach to a leaking rubrail by grinding the cut-off flange more or less flat, filling then painting. It wasn't too tough of a job on an E23 and took care of a badly leaking rubrail.
 

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davisr

Member III
Thanks Mark,

Fortunately I am not experiencing leaks. The problem was that the rub rail rubber was completely dry-rotted. Moreover, the PVC backer was loose in numerous places due to the PVC backer mounting screws that were themselves loose. I was only able to get to these loose screws by removing the rotten rubber. While I was at it I went ahead and removed the PVC backer to inspect the joint. There are a few gaps here and there, but I guess they don't go very deep, since I don't have any leaks. I think I'll fill these with 5200 before reattaching the PVC. I've read about others doing this.

I'm just hoping that I can get away with finding strips of rub-rail rubber that will fit into the PVC. Would be nice to avoid buying more PVC. I'm just wondering if others have had such luck.

Thanks,
Roscoe
 

CSMcKillip

Moderator
Moderator
Maybe try this?

I replaced my plastic insert rubber from Catalina dirct on our older Capri 25. Why do I bring this up you ask? well, the rubber and aluminum rail look almost as a same mach as I replaced on my Capri 25. Check www.catalinadirect.com and see of they will just ship you out a 1'-0" section to check and see if it will fit.

Just a suggestion.
 

davisr

Member III
Thanks Chris,

I'm not up on the Capri/Catalina connection, but I'm guessing the Capri 25 is similar to the Catalina 25 whose parts are available on this website. The rubrail track and the rubrail itself for the Catalina 25 do indeed look similar to the E25 track and rubrail. The only difference I see, in terms of the shape of the rubrail, is that there is a center piece of rubber, a backbone if you will, that seems to act as a support for the arch of the rubber rail.

Roscoe
 

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davisr

Member III
For those who may be interested, I spoke with Pete Stiger at Wefco today. He said that he was familiar with Ericsons and that the following were appropriate replacements:

Rubrail Track: 0422G ($3.50 per ft)
Rubrail Insert: 4107 ($2.50 per ft)

They seem to be very similar to the originals. The main difference is that the track is not PVC, but is instead rubber. I provide pictures below.

Does anyone have any experience with Wefco as compared to Taco? It seems that Taco specializes in rubber tracks as well. Opinions on which product is better?

Thanks,
Roscoe
 

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mfherbert

Junior Member
Rub rail

I'd like to ask a subsidiary question about rub rails. On my E23 II my rub rail is sound, but quite oxidized and chalky. Any suggestions for removing the oxidization and then revitalizing the rubber?

Mike
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
I'd like to ask a subsidiary question about rub rails. On my E23 II my rub rail is sound, but quite oxidized and chalky. Any suggestions for removing the oxidization and then revitalizing the rubber?

Mike
Mike, I've had pretty good luck rubbing it down with a course rag(Scotch pad might work too) to remove "most" of the oxidation and then wiping it down with acetone. The acetone seems to slightly melt it and leaves a smooth finish. If you start with acetone, and don't prep it first, the rag globs up pretty quickly.
 

marcny

Junior Member
Rub rail destroyed when my E25 attempts freedom break.

For those who may be interested, I spoke with Pete Stiger at Wefco today. He said that he was familiar with Ericsons and that the following were appropriate replacements:

Rubrail Track: 0422G ($3.50 per ft)
Rubrail Insert: 4107 ($2.50 per ft)

They seem to be very similar to the originals. The main difference is that the track is not PVC, but is instead rubber. I provide pictures below.

Does anyone have any experience with Wefco as compared to Taco? It seems that Taco specializes in rubber tracks as well. Opinions on which product is better?

Thanks,
Roscoe

Im just following up to see if this rail fits. My E25 got loose from my mooring when the rope broke and my boat got beat up against the dock the wind pushed it into.

I'll need to replace both track and insert on one side.

Any experience here would be helpful.
 

davisr

Member III
Im just following up to see if this rail fits. My E25 got loose from my mooring when the rope broke and my boat got beat up against the dock the wind pushed it into.

I'll need to replace both track and insert on one side.

Any experience here would be helpful.
I took the original rubrails (and tracks) off and set them down on the ground beside the boat. Over time leaves and dirt covered them. Near the end of my refitting of Oystercatcher, I dug them out and scrubbed them with Barkeeper's Friend. Didn't want to spend any more money. The oxyalic acid in BKF made a huge difference. Decided I could live with the originals. Wish I could be more help.

Roscoe
 

marcny

Junior Member
I took the original rubrails (and tracks) off and set them down on the ground beside the boat. Over time leaves and dirt covered them. Near the end of my refitting of Oystercatcher, I dug them out and scrubbed them with Barkeeper's Friend. Didn't want to spend any more money. The oxyalic acid in BKF made a huge difference. Decided I could live with the originals. Wish I could be more help.

Roscoe

Thanks Roscoe.

I've got to replace at least part of the track and and the rubber is pretty cracked and almost torn in one place. At about $150 for entire replacement, if pricing still same 6 years on, I'll might go for a complete new one.

I'll be doing some patching up of the joint of hull to deck as well as some deck repair as well so the rubrail will act to cover up the screws as well.


 

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907Juice

Continuously learning
Deck hardware oystercatcher Blog

http://www.ericson25.com/2012/07/deck-hardware-removal.html

http://www.ericson25.com/search/label/traveler bridge

I thought I'd follow onto this thread instead of starting a new one. I am losing lots of sleep and staying up late reading this blog. It is awesome! Anyway, to my point. I plan on reseating my deck hardware this winterish (more like prep over winter and finish in the spring) and had a question about the work. Im confused with the complete process and the finished product and the site was a little unclear to me. Can someone give me a quick summary? Did you remove the hardware, Dremel and clean the edges if big enough, fill with thin epoxy to be absorbed and seal into the core, completely fill the whole with epoxy, then redrill the holes, and set hardware using the g-10 backing?

Also, he used butyl tape. I thought I was reading 4200 is a better application for this.

Thanks for any advice,
Juice

1982 25+
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Getting to the Core of the matter

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/installing-deck-hardware-sail-epoxy-basics-5/

There is a primer on this in this video series.

Another way to remove an oversize 'core' is to drill up from the bottom with a small hole saw and NOT drill all the way thru the top frp layer. You want to remove *only* coring and the bottom layer. I have four new cleats waiting to install and my strategy is to use a 3/4" hole saw with a small ss clamp tightened around it to provide a stop (!) when it has removed the coring and not gone into the top frp deck layer of cloth.

These projects aways seem to require laying on one's back, in some near inaccessible part of the bow or stern, reaching up at full extension of arm, and holding a drill steady. Easy. Right. Yeah sure.:eek:

A few years ago I put in a bow anchor roller with G10 seated in epoxy mush inside, as far as my long arms could reach up inside the pointy end.
(It was sort of like the legend of the young knight being instructed to hold a small rock straight outward at arm's length as a test. It turns out that I was not "knight material" ...)
:rolleyes:

My point, and I do have one, is that when you re-drill the hole there is no longer *any* compressible coring around that bolt for an eighth or more. If any water ever leaks past it, it is prevented from saturating the balsa coring.

As for sealant, I agree with the guy in the video; pick one and go with it. I have used clear LifeSeal for all our deck hardware for many years, and nowadays am using some of the gray non-hardening caulk I bought from MaineSail.
BTW, if you follow the advice from the MS site, you should be just fine, also.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
"MS" does not mention the "overdrill, epoxy fill, and redrill" technique in this particular article but the best shipwright I know does this on EVERY single fastening hole thru a deck.

Regards,
Loren
 
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