E26-2 - Post-Haulout Questions

[KS Dave]

I was able to successfully get hauled out on one of our club trailers yesterday. My main goals are bottom inspection, bottom paint, and replacing the infamous pre-valve PVC elbows on three of my through-hulls.


While looking around at things on the bottom, I have a few questions I hope to get some advice on.

1) A small chunk missing on my rudder. Is this something I can fill in with some thickened epoxy and then just some fairing compound over the top? Or should I lay some cloth on it? I'm not looking for a major repair/replacement, or something that I need to last me across an ocean, just enough to contain the damage
2) The little ring around the shaft itself is loose. What does that do? Major concern?


3) Anodes - the prop shaft seems an easy one to find. This round one on the strut, does his look like a trim tab anode? Was trying to compare it something I could purchase to replace it with. I'm in freshwater - not sure if that makes a difference on metal composition on these?

 

[toddster]

Ouch. If it was me, I'd put at least one layer of glass over that ding repair.

But... if it's open to the foam, probably the whole thing is full of water. (At least it's not salt water??) It could take significant time to drain and dry that before patching.

 

[Frank Langer]

If by ring around the shaft you mean the black nylon ring between the hull and the top of the rudder, that is there to help the rudder turn freely, and should be loose, in my opinion.
Frank

 

[KS Dave]

Ouch. If it was me, I'd put at least one layer of glass over that ding repair.

But... if it's open to the foam, probably the whole thing is full of water. (At least it's not salt water??) It could take significant time to drain and dry that before patching.

I recall seeing some threads on that here before. As I recall, most opted to replace the whole rudder. Not an option. I also remember reading about drilling holes so it can drain then repairing. Has anyone done this? It's that a "months" long process? If so, I don't want to take that kind of time.

So, if I patch it, will that keep any additional water from getting it? Or should I even bother and just roll with as-is?

 

[KS Dave]

If by ring around the shaft you mean the black nylon ring between the hull and the top of the rudder, that is there to help the rudder turn freely, and should be loose, in my opinion.
Frank

I pointed it out (red arrow) in the picture. It's loose top-to-bottom; it slides up and down the rudder shaft. Just wondering if that should be attached to the hull? Or what the story is? Not sure what it's made of.

 

[toddster]

I recall seeing some threads on that here before. As I recall, most opted to replace the whole rudder. Not an option. I also remember reading about drilling holes so it can drain then repairing. Has anyone done this? It's that a "months" long process? If so, I don't want to take that kind of time.

So, if I patch it, will that keep any additional water from getting it? Or should I even bother and just roll with as-is?

IDK - I turned the rudder upside down and got significant water draining out - apparently there's one or more openings inside the shaft? Left it that way all summer, and it seemed dry when I got back to it. But I had a lot of other jobs going on anyway.

But what else is going on there? Looks like there's some damage to the hull at the other side of the rudder post. Did some object get crunched in there? I'd want to drop the rudder out and inspect the hull-to-rudder tube joint.

 

[KS Dave]

IDK - I turned the rudder upside down and got significant water draining out - apparently there's one or more openings inside the shaft? Left it that way all summer, and it seemed dry when I got back to it. But I had a lot of other jobs going on anyway.

Well, I could leave it out and upside down for about a month (July in Kansas is usually pretty warm). What are the risks if I don't drain it completely?

But what else is going on there? Looks like there's some damage to the hull at the other side of the rudder post. Did some object get crunched in there? I'd want to drop the rudder out and inspect the hull-to-rudder tube joint.

You know, I noticed that, but didn't take good pictures of the other side. I was tired after a couple hours of power washing. Should probably check it out more closely. I have no history on this boat, so it's possible something happened. I don't know.

So, dropping the rudder, how do I do that? Here's what the other end looks like (not a hi-res picture, sorry).

 

[Loren Beach]

I'm in freshwater - not sure if that makes a difference on metal composition on these?

Fresh water here, too. Nowadays using aluminum anodes.

 

[KS Dave]

Fresh water here, too. Nowadays using aluminum anodes.

Noted. Thanks, Loren.

 

[Nick J]

I ran into the same issue on my 25± and I ended up rebuilding it.

Rudder Rebuild Questions

During haul out, I noticed a quarter size hole in luffalee’s rudder apx. 2” behind rudder post on the top edge. There was a small amount of rust stained water just below the surface of the hole, so I drilled some exploratory holes around the area. Of course, the rudder was wet and there was...

ericsonyachts.org

It wasn't that difficult but there was some time involved.

This damage is what happens when the boat is moving in reverse, you let go of the tiller, and the force of the water spinns the rudder until the top edge contacts the hull (don't let go of the tiller in reverse!) . I initially thought it was from my outboard.

 

[toddster]

Well, I could leave it out and upside down for about a month (July in Kansas is usually pretty warm). What are the risks if I don't drain it completely?


You know, I noticed that, but didn't take good pictures of the other side. I was tired after a couple hours of power washing. Should probably check it out more closely. I have no history on this boat, so it's possible something happened. I don't know.

So, dropping the rudder, how do I do that? Here's what the other end looks like (not a hi-res picture, sorry).
View attachment 39449

Just loosen the clamp bolt, take out the through-bolt (or vice verse?) and it will drop right out. Have someone holding the rudder when the bolt comes out!

 

[KS Dave]

Just loosen the clamp bolt, take out the through-bolt (or vice verse?) and it will drop right out.

Wow. Doesn't seem like there's much holding the whole thing in place. One bolt and the whole rudder and shaft can drop out?

Have someone holding the rudder when the bolt comes out!

Understated note, I think...

 

[Brad Johnson]

The loose upper ring is just to prevent the rudder hitting the hull when turned all the way, , My rudder was a high density foam , seamed like closed cell that hadn't absorbed any water when I did a repair on mine , I would bring an area a couple of inches beyond the damaged area , if its dry a couple of areas of glass then epoxy thickened to shape , faring to smooth then prime and paint. If its wet do a temporary repair to keep water out. The rudder drops easy , loosen the bolt that clamps (1/2") and remove bolt ( 9/16") with the rudder either held by helper or held up by a brace. I would remove the anode on the strut , not necessarily.