• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

E27 Electrical Questions - New to me boat

JLapp

Junior Member
Posting a reply to @Tin Kicker here, so I would stop cluttering up another post.

On the shakedown cruise, it seemed like only the 'Accessory 1' and 'Blower' switch worked. Everything else did not work. The running lights most disturbingly and the cabin lights secondary.

I started to trace out the wiring and found a terminal block and tightened up some connections there, everything worked at that point except for the cabin lights. The cabin is full of battery-powered puck lights so it's been without cabin lights for a while, I knew that as part of the purchase and figured it wouldn't be a huge deal to fix, even if it meant re-wiring. I assumed that would be something to consider anyway, and at the price, I was just looking for good bones.

Anyway, traced out the connection and found a connection wrapped under some heavy electrical tape, inside was a butt connector that had one wire in and two out that had burned up! I don't know if the tape caused it, saved the boat, or was just to cover it up. Anyway, I've got my solder kit and some heat shrink and I'm going to fix it, which leads me to my first question:

What is the best method to spice off a light fixture in the cabin light circuit? Is the two-into-one correct or do I find the bus and run a line all the way to the fixture from there?

I'm going to take a picture of a terminal/bus block I've found in the lazaret tonight and post the picture here, and hopefully, get some advice about if it's factory or an add on.

Second Question, the wires that run through the bilge, go to the mast I assume. Is there a better way to route them? I'm going to take the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" tact here, and I plan on keeping the bilge dry and clean, but it wasn't always so and the wires have a slick coat on them from I assume the old inboard days with water/oil/gas/rum in the bilge.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Kinda answering in reverse . . .

"if it ain't broke don't fix it" is a GREAT idea because you already have enough other stuff which actually sounds like the they need priority. As long as the slime is on the outside of the wires and they work they aren't your problem for today.

There are all sorts of "right" ways to splice and do 2 into 1 connections. The big thing is to add up the loads and make sure you are not overloading the breaker OR the wire. If dealing with existing wiring then it's quicker and easier to just remove the power feeder from the breaker and jump it through a multimeter.

Crimp connections can work fine as long as all the wire strands become part of the joint. While solder less waterproof connectors are what we all try to use, I have no problem in a pinch using regular crimp connectors and then packing the ends of the splice with liquid insulation available from any car part or big box (Lowes / HD).

If you found a bunch of battery puck lights, my suspicion is that the 12V to those places was not working. It's just a matter of following the wire back to the breaker to see where the power or ground failed. Obviously in this day, go to LED lighting.

Glad you actually shook the loose connections at the terminal block. Most people will look but not touch, when even a little wiggle can turn up problems like what you found.
 

JLapp

Junior Member
I didn’t get a pic last night, the call to sail was stronger than the call to fix wires. I’ve got a busy weekend, but will update when I have some pics.
 
Top