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E27 Rudder head and Tiller Casting

Nick Reynolds

Member II
There is a lot of slop in the tiller on my E27. The entire range of motion appears to be due to either a lot of wear, or a bad fit, between the casting that bolts to the tiller, and the one that bolts to the head of the rudder.

I have shimmed it, and messed around with it, but in the end it looks like the entire assembly needs to be replaced.

Does anyone have any idea where the new parts could be found?

Thanks.
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Tiller slop repair.

Nick, I've run into that problem on several occasions with tiller steered Ericsons and the fix is to drill out both holes one size larger and install the appropriate larger bolts. It's a pretty easy task taking only minutes and will eliminate most if not all tiller slop. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA.
 

Mike & Dawn

Junior Member
Nick, is the slop between the tiller fork and the rudder cap? I had enough slop I mounted a shim to the rudder cap the thickness of a door hinge. It solved that problem but i need to get a shim made of stainless. Mike
 

G Kiba

Member III
Tiller Play

My E27 had a lot of tiller slop and it was my fault. I replaced the wood tiller but had flipped the mount upsidedown (it looks symmetric but its not) If I recall there are two bolts that go through the wood tiller and a single pivot bolt at the rear. When the tiller is lowered over the rudder cap there is an inclined inner surface on port side of the mount that tightens over the rudder cap as it is lowered. On the port side of the rudder cap there is a threaded hole (10-32) that had a hardened button that rubbed on the inclined surface. Mine was wore to a sliver so I replaced it with a set screw with loctite on the threads. When the mount is upsidedown it increases the amont of slop on the rudder cap.

Anyways take off the tiller and mount and examine these inner surfaces. Also look for the threaded hole you may have to drill out the button. With the mount in the right orientation you can adjust the set screw to take out all the slot without over tightening the pivot bolts. Let us know if you find the same on your boat.

Good luck
Grant Kiba
'73 E27
Antioch, CA
 

rod sanburn

Member II
Head to post play

Tim,
If its the same as my E-27, the shims worked sort of but I drilled and tapped mine and inserted SS Allen* set screws (3). took out the movement .The allen screws adjust in against the rudder post. I use a little bit of blue locktite. Don't over tighten. I have a trailer for my E-27, I take it home in the winter, I remove my rudder and take it inside. The previous owners did not do this, I had to rebld it, used the west system products, anyway removing and re-installing each year, its still remains tight. It worked for me. Rod S
 

Mike & Dawn

Junior Member
My tiller fork is symetric and my rudder post cap shows no signs of "set screw" holes, only the bolt hole for the tiller fork. My concern about drilling out the bolt hole to the next size is that the bolt becomes the only point of energy transfer and it would still slop around. Mike
 

G Kiba

Member III
Tiller Slop

Mike and Dawn,

I'll try to get a picture of my tiller arrangement. Like a said in my previous post, the mount looks very symmetric. The hardened button in the cap was plated just line the cap itself. Barely visible, it looked like a circular layer of plating material. It took a sharp screw driver to peeled it away and discover the threaded hole and what was left of the male threads of the button. A quick centerpunch and a .187 drill removed the screw and left the threads undamaged and ready for the new setscrew (316 stainless is a good choice 10-32 thread will do).

Grant Kiba
'73, E27
Antioch, CA
 

rod sanburn

Member II
2 different type of problems

Grant and all other Captains.

My tiller casting that attaches to the tiller post cap is snug. The slop was in the cap and the SS rudder post. It was the cap that has the single bolt that attaches to the post that I drilled and tapped for the set screws to take out the wear. Sorry I did not get it. I'm not real smart but I can lift heavy things. :) Rod S
 

Hey_Billy

Junior Member
Head to post play

Tim,
If its the same as my E-27, the shims worked sort of but I drilled and tapped mine and inserted SS Allen* set screws (3). took out the movement .The allen screws adjust in against the rudder post. I use a little bit of blue locktite. Don't over tighten. I have a trailer for my E-27, I take it home in the winter, I remove my rudder and take it inside. The previous owners did not do this, I had to rebld it, used the west system products, anyway removing and re-installing each year, its still remains tight. It worked for me. Rod S
Rod, that is a great idea.
 

bigd14

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I had massive amounts of play at the tiller head which was annoying and it felt like the rudder would fall off. Before I hauled the boat out for an extended rebuild, I tried shims on two occasions which worked for about 2 tacks then worked their way loose. So during the haulout I took the tiller head, cap and rudder to a machine shop and they inserted a sleeve into the tiller head and cap and machined the rudder shaft to match. Expensive, but man was it ever smooth afterwards. Apparently the steel pipe of the rudder shaft was not precision milled at the factory, so it has high spots and roughness that wears the bronze of the tiller head away and causes the loose fit over time.
 

Gaviate

Member II
Wow! what timing...I asked the yard to remove my rudder at haul out whilst on lift so I can examine and rebuild or replace. Sloppy steering is super annoying and as mentioned above worrisome. Any chance yous guys have a picture or schematic of rudder/tiller/cap assembly? I have no Idea what things are supposed to look like tho ya'lls descriptions are helpful.
Thanks
 

dofthesea

Member I
Be sure and use the appropriate sized nylon washers. I had this problem as well and with two washers installed problem fixed.
 
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