• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

E28+ repower

rpm

Member II
So it’s time to replace my M12 Universal. Winmar 20hp Or electric hybrid? Experience on what fits? This is for weekend cruising in the Puget Sound. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 05BFE0AA-E691-4648-AF95-44838ABC899F.jpeg
    05BFE0AA-E691-4648-AF95-44838ABC899F.jpeg
    149.1 KB · Views: 16

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
At a dry weight of 7500# for your boat model, I would guess that a Betamarine20 would be ample power, depending on room in your engine compartment.
The Betamarine16 should also be quite adequate, and a bit lighter. That probably is the best option.


(I do not know what a Winmar 20, is, unfortunately.)

Your existing engine is rated at 11 HP, per the Universal website. https://www.westerbeke.com/advanced specs/universal_m2-12.pdf
 

rpm

Member II
So it’s time to replace my M12 Universal. Winmar 20hp Or electric hybrid? Experience on what fits? This is for weekend cruising in the Puget Sound. Thanks
Excellent. I will look at a Betta which I guess is a sister to Kubota. But I’ll be replacing the Hurt trans also. Are electrics out there too?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
My new Betamarine came with the engine (a marinated Kubota), new mounts, trans, coupler, wiring harness, and panel. I did pay a bit more for a larger amperage alternator and a panel with a tach. Also, a connection for the hoses to and from our hot water heater.
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Whats wrong with the Universal? Those things are pretty bulletproof and usually cheaper to rebuild than replace with new.
 

rpm

Member II
Hello. Just try to find a mechanic. Im still waiting but I’m going to take all your advice. Starting with a quick look at the glow plugs then mech injector to try to get it up and running again. If not I was told the small Beta works well ,,, but then I see they don’t hav a distributor this side of the Mississippi. I have a kicker with an electric starter so rebuild is preferred
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Hello. Just try to find a mechanic. Im still waiting but I’m going to take all your advice. Starting with a quick look at the glow plugs then mech injector to try to get it up and running again. If not I was told the small Beta works well ,,, but then I see they don’t hav a distributor this side of the Mississippi. I have a kicker with an electric starter so rebuild is preferred
We have a great Betamarine dealer here in Portland and their site lists a dealer in Puget Sound. Perhaps you meant something else by a "distributor". (?)
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Call a mechanic last. Buy a book on troubleshooting marine diesels. Run the usual checks--it will make you an expert on your engine model, tank, filters, and hoses.

If you have normal-looking oil and coolant, and there isn't a deep pool of oil or diesel under the engine, and if your batteries are adequate, you can do everything a mechanic can do to see what's wrong, if anything.

In fact, tell the forum your symptoms and some member will recognize them and tell how he solved the problem.

A new engine is a great idea, and will probably include new fuel tank and panel as well. It's the last solution, not the first.

[Also: around here the big marine engine dealership says "we don;t really work on old Universal engines." Because the staff "hasn't been trained for it." That leaves you with freelance guys who tend to put you off or don't show up. I asked a marine industry friend why--don;t they need the work". He said, in effect:

"They don't know you. Customer says "it won't start." They arrive and see that the engine is neglected. They tell you the panel is a mess, the cooling system is clogged, the wiring is dangerous, the fuel tank is leaking, and that your batteries "probably" will not hold a charge from your obsolete shore-power charger (yeah, sir, the batteries are new but the old charger has destroyed them; and "probably" because charge-holding can't be determined with a glance) and gives a rough estimate of minimum work required.

Customer: "Just make it start so I can go sailing."

In the end, the good freelance mechanics have apparently found that just to tighten a ground wire, an hour's billing, isn't worth the drive and the conversation and the argument.]
 

rpm

Member II
I totally appreciate your good advice on doing my own troubleshooting. The thing is, anything more complicated than a kitchen sink exhausts everything I know how to do.....except split a rubber washer that is extinct probably, But to the point, the engine has new injectors, new alternator, new exhaust, rebuilt Hurt transmission two years ago, new prop shaft, new gland, and new fuel/water impellers....and importantly ran beautifully, albiet underpowered, at constant rpm and normal heat with water out the transom. So, on the other hand, it is water cooled without any heat exchanger. No doubt the block must have rust up the ying-yang but I must say, when I poured my anti-salt inhibiter into the water intake filter while running, it goes down good. The Hobbs meter says 4000 hours, it is a 1985 after all, but I see that that could be overstated if one left the ignition on all week. It is on a trickle charger constantly at the dock.
What is happening is that after a year of non-use it would only crank but not kick-over.
I may have to sell it reluctantly next year, I single hand in Puget Sound and am getting old. Wonderful boat though.
 

Attachments

  • Yonder, Deception.jpg
    Yonder, Deception.jpg
    266.9 KB · Views: 4

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
It's just money.

Regarding the 4000 hours--several members report such numbers on 80s boats.

But that means, in 37 years, and average of about 110 hours a year. That's roughly 14 days motoring 8 hours a day.

With engine on four hours a day, it's 28 days of motoring--on a sailboat.

If a typical sail requires two hours of motoring, that means the owner went sailing 48 times a year.

This accounting assume no years, of the 37 years, in which the boat was up for sale or didn't get used much.

I guess there's some simple explanation. Leaving the ignition on-- does anybody do that?

 
Last edited:

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
What is happening is that after a year of non-use it would only crank but not kick-over.
Have you bled the fuel system? That exactly matches the symptoms of air in the fuel system and air in the fuel system is common "after a year of non-use".
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
You seem to indicate that you don't have any, or rather basic, mechanical skills. Do you have any metric tools, open end wrenches and socket set, to deal with the fittings on the M-12? There are some very simple diagnostic steps that you can take without extensive mechanical knowledge if you have the basic tools available. Without those you are at the mercy of marine mechanics.
 
Top