E32-3 Reefing Mysteries [Master Thread]

[Hcard]

It's likely that we have the same Kenyon boom on our boat. This subject comes up regularly, and different owners have evolved slightly different solutions. You might try a search on 'reefing lines' or similar.
I have considered going back to the factory T track, but that's a decision for another month.

Reefing Line Leads

I am pretty sure that we have an older thread around here somewhere discussing ways of leading the clew reef lines. Can't find it offhand... :rolleyes: I did just run across a nice video on-line showing how to set up the line to put the correct (approx) 45 degree pull on that reef line that we...

ericsonyachts.org

Thank you!! Seems it is an art rather than a science!! Good info, Thank you all.

 

[Christian Williams]

Here's a video of procedure. I use reef downhauls led to the cockpit, rather than the simpler "dog bones" which require manual attachment. I don;t think downhauls are necessary for most crews, and they mean complication and two more lines to potentially foul.

Turn on YouTube closed captions [cc] for the steps. Video will start at topic.

 

[bigd14]

Hi Christian, I am trying to optimize my reefing system and while researching options watched your video above and got to wondering about your setup. The previous owner of my boat had a reef downhaul setup that ran from a point on the mast up to a block on the sail and then down through an eye to the mast base turning block. There is a similar setup on the other side of the sail for the second reef. The way these lines run introduce a lot of friction and extra line into the equation and I am not happy with it. I fiddled with it a bit but didn't really try to rethink it. This setup may have been conceived to avoid contact with the "stack pack" style sail cover so my options may be limited.

My question is how do you run the reef downhaul to the turning block at the base of the mast? It's hard to tell in the video but the line appears to run directly down to mast base. I assumed there would need to be some forward tension towards the mast on this line to prevent the slugs from being under too much pressure when the reefing line is tensioned aft but perhaps that is not important. Do you have a block or eye on the mast, or is the angle from the reef point to the turning block adequate?

Thank you.

Doug

 

[Christian Williams]

On my boat the downhaul ties to the dog bone at the reefing clew. It then goes straight down (past the gooseneck) to a turning block on the mast collar, and then aft to deck organizer and clutch.

Is the stack pack an obstacle to that lead? I guess it might be....

 

[bigd14]

Thanks Christian. I believe the stackpack does interfere with a straight run down to the mast collar, but I'll need to experiment with it. At the very least I can terminate the line on the reefing clew and eliminate the block on the sail and the extra run of line. A new mainsail is planned in the next few years at which time I will more thoroughly weigh the drawbacks of the stackpack versus the convenience. The ability to easily reef the sail is a high priority, but it is also very nice to dump the sail into the pack, zip it up and be done with it. Good grief, listen to me, weighing performance versus convenience! I guess I already know the answer...

 

[Loren Beach]

We have the UKSails version of the "stack pack" and if we are going to be out sailing for a while, the lazy jacks can be lowered angled forward to be secured by the gooseneck. Then the reefing 'floppy ring' is accessible to go onto the horn.
I do like the furling convenience of the "pack" but yeah, it does have some drawbacks too.

 

[boyle_brian]

Thanks, Christian - I took your advice Also took the opportunity to remove the cam levers. Should I be putting a spacer in place of the cam levers? I just put the bolt back in and tightened the self-locking nut until it grabbed some threads without putting any pressure on the new reefing lines running into the boom. The metal guide plate is just ever so slightly loose, but I'm guessing there's nothing to foul here.

Hi VanillaDuck,

I know it’s been a couple years, but do you recall what length of line you purchased for your reef lines?

Also: is that 1/4” line, and dd you run it back to the cockpit or leave it at the mast?

Many thanks to you and all others for the great detailed descriptions on this topic.

 

[peaman]

Hi VanillaDuck,

I know it’s been a couple years, but do you recall what length of line you purchased for your reef lines?

Also: is that 1/4” line, and dd you run it back to the cockpit or leave it at the mast?

Many thanks to you and all others for the great detailed descriptions on this topic.

I can't answer your questions, but if you look in the "resources" section of this site, there might be an owners manual for your boat, which ought to include a section on rigging, with lots of information on sizes and lengths of standing and running rigging.

 

[bgary]

but do you recall what length of line you purchased for your reef lines?

Also: is that 1/4” line, and dd you run it back to the cockpit or leave it at the mast?

length will depend on where your reef-points are

On my 32-III, the first reef point is 4-1/2 feet up the leech off the main, so that reef line needs to be 21 feet (up and back from the boom to the reef cringle, then the length of the boom) PLUS however much length it takes to get from the gooseneck to where you want it.

My second reef point is 9 feet up the leech, so that reef-line needs to be 30 feet PLUS the length to get it from the gooseneck to where you want it.

My reeflines are 45' and 55' long - I wanted them long enough to run along the deck and aft to the self-tailing winch on the cabin-top, with enough tail left over to be useful. They're each ~5 feet longer than they need to be, but I'd always rather have lines too long than not-long-enough.

Oh, and I used 5/16" VPC line - I really like the way it feels, it's very strong and it runs through the blocks (and works in the self-tailer) nicely.

$0.02

 

[Christian Williams]

For what it's worth, 5/16th (8mm) also works well as reef lines on the E38s. Ericson reef line spec was 3/8ths, this goes through blocks better.

 

[vanilladuck]

Hi VanillaDuck,

I know it’s been a couple years, but do you recall what length of line you purchased for your reef lines?

Also: is that 1/4” line, and dd you run it back to the cockpit or leave it at the mast?

Many thanks to you and all others for the great detailed descriptions on this topic.

@boyle_brian as others have stated it's good to measure. I like leaving some extra on the working side of the lines in most cases. Reef 1 is 50' and Reef 2 was 60'. I used 3/8" New England Sta-Set for both. Below is an excerpt from a spreadsheet I keep for the boat:



The reef lines are run all the way back to the cockpit along with the downhauls. Hope this helps!
- Bryan