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E34-2, drifter (gennaker?), asymmetrical

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Hello-

I am trying to sort out sails prior to the summer sailing season, and could use some advice

Specifically, as I will keep the roller furling for another season (I do listen) it will be hard to change jibs. All summer I will have a 100% up. In the (SF Bay) afternoons that's fine upwind, but there are the lower-wind mornings, and the downwind which is much more entertaining if one can pop a larger sail. Plus outside the Golden Gate it can be a lot quieter. So I would like a big, light, easy-to-deploy (and manage singlehanded) sail. I imagine a spinnaker-like sail with a free luff (attached only at the tack, clew, and head), which I can set/douse easily with my jib rolled, or possibly later fly wing-and-wing with the jib.

As far as I can tell, amidst a huge proliferation of names, these types of sail come in two main varieties:

Gennaker: a big jib with an unsecured luff, made of spinnaker-type cloth, with the tack and head inside (aft of) the forestay. May have (e.g.) a spectra line in the luff to allow tensioning it significantly. Tacking or gybing requires bringing the sail through the foretriangle.
[n.b.: I have handy holes in the anchor fitting that would allow shackling the tack aft of the roller furler]
- I am unsure if this is the same as a "drifter", which is what my sailmaker suggests and describes in the same terms. He suggests a size ~ 150%.

Cruising asymmetrical: very similar; maybe bigger and with more draft (?). Secured at tack and head outside (forward of) the forestay, allowing gybing the sail outside of the forestay in a very simple fashion.
[n.b.: I have no convenient place to secure the tack, but perhaps could drill a hole in the anchor fitting forward of the roller furling. I believe the second foreward halyard is inside the forestay (i.e., not a spinnaker halyard, though maybe I'm wrong -- need to get the binoculars and look carefully), which may present additional problems for this alternative.]

As far as I can ascertain, the cruising asymmetrical is most useful farther off the wind (and a lot easier to gybe), while the gennaker/drifter is better for going vaguely upwind to a deep-ish broad reach, but more of a pain to gybe. I'm unclear if it matters which one gets in terms of utility wing and wing with a 130% jib. My sailmaker has suggested the "drifter", as described above; he is a multi-transpac vet, so should know, but... the asymmetrical sounds sort of easier to deal with to me (the gybing thing seems nice), assuming I could find a way to rig it.

--> I am unclear which format (genneaker vs asymmetrical) is most generally useful for a singlehanding non-racing Ericson; would appreciate any comments/advice.

PS: I have no pole, and no ring on the mast to support one. Of course, that (or a mast track) can be added, and eventually I will rig this, but not having one now I am also interested if one (or both) of these sails requires use of a pole.

Many thanks!

References in case anyone else is ever searching this:
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/headsail-size-selection-e34-2.19524/#post-152463 (in which Goldenstate has a picture of an asymmetrical; thanks!)
ATN makes a spinnaker sleeve (for dousing) and a "tacker" which I am a little less sure I understand the point of, but seems recommended for asymmetricals. However, it is suggested (https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/32-3-spinnaker-rigging.13255/) that the tacker is unnecessary and skipping it allows rolling out the jib with the spinnaker set.
 

geckler3

Junior Member
Hello-

I am trying to sort out sails prior to the summer sailing season, and could use some advice

Specifically, as I will keep the roller furling for another season (I do listen) it will be hard to change jibs. All summer I will have a 100% up. In the (SF Bay) afternoons that's fine upwind, but there are the lower-wind mornings, and the downwind which is much more entertaining if one can pop a larger sail. Plus outside the Golden Gate it can be a lot quieter. So I would like a big, light, easy-to-deploy (and manage singlehanded) sail. I imagine a spinnaker-like sail with a free luff (attached only at the tack, clew, and head), which I can set/douse easily with my jib rolled, or possibly later fly wing-and-wing with the jib.

As far as I can tell, amidst a huge proliferation of names, these types of sail come in two main varieties:

Gennaker: a big jib with an unsecured luff, made of spinnaker-type cloth, with the tack and head inside (aft of) the forestay. May have (e.g.) a spectra line in the luff to allow tensioning it significantly. Tacking or gybing requires bringing the sail through the foretriangle.
[n.b.: I have handy holes in the anchor fitting that would allow shackling the tack aft of the roller furler]
- I am unsure if this is the same as a "drifter", which is what my sailmaker suggests and describes in the same terms. He suggests a size ~ 150%.

Cruising asymmetrical: very similar; maybe bigger and with more draft (?). Secured at tack and head outside (forward of) the forestay, allowing gybing the sail outside of the forestay in a very simple fashion.
[n.b.: I have no convenient place to secure the tack, but perhaps could drill a hole in the anchor fitting forward of the roller furling. I believe the second foreward halyard is inside the forestay (i.e., not a spinnaker halyard, though maybe I'm wrong -- need to get the binoculars and look carefully), which may present additional problems for this alternative.]

As far as I can ascertain, the cruising asymmetrical is most useful farther off the wind (and a lot easier to gybe), while the gennaker/drifter is better for going vaguely upwind to a deep-ish broad reach, but more of a pain to gybe. I'm unclear if it matters which one gets in terms of utility wing and wing with a 130% jib. My sailmaker has suggested the "drifter", as described above; he is a multi-transpac vet, so should know, but... the asymmetrical sounds sort of easier to deal with to me (the gybing thing seems nice), assuming I could find a way to rig it.

--> I am unclear which format (genneaker vs asymmetrical) is most generally useful for a singlehanding non-racing Ericson; would appreciate any comments/advice.

PS: I have no pole, and no ring on the mast to support one. Of course, that (or a mast track) can be added, and eventually I will rig this, but not having one now I am also interested if one (or both) of these sails requires use of a pole.

Many thanks!

References in case anyone else is ever searching this:
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/headsail-size-selection-e34-2.19524/#post-152463 (in which Goldenstate has a picture of an asymmetrical; thanks!)
ATN makes a spinnaker sleeve (for dousing) and a "tacker" which I am a little less sure I understand the point of, but seems recommended for asymmetricals. However, it is suggested (https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/32-3-spinnaker-rigging.13255/) that the tacker is unnecessary and skipping it allows rolling out the jib with the spinnaker set.
A code zero will be more useful for what you describe. Especially in san francisco where it is liable to puff.
 

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thank you! So that I understand, Wikipedia tells me the Code Zero is like what the sailmaker described/suggested, with the spectra luff line.

--> Does this typically rig the tack in front of the forestay (like an asymmetric) or behind (like a jib)? Or can you do it either way, and that is really a separate question from the sail shape?

(Wikipedia : The code 0 asymmetric is a tight reaching sail... replaced the jibs for light upwind work in addition to many off wind angles. The luff is as straight as possible, and the sail is flatter than other asymmetric spinnakers. Due to the flatness of the code 0, it is usually made with a high modulus luff line for supporting strength, and of a heavier, less stretchy fabric than normal for a spinnaker.)
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
My head starts to swim when I hear all these terms. I found this post in Ask SAIL somewhat helpful.
However, it doesn't include the drifter.
 

geckler3

Junior Member
Thank you! So that I understand, Wikipedia tells me the Code Zero is like what the sailmaker described/suggested, with the spectra luff line.

--> Does this typically rig the tack in front of the forestay (like an asymmetric) or behind (like a jib)? Or can you do it either way, and that is really a separate question from the sail shape?

(Wikipedia : The code 0 asymmetric is a tight reaching sail... replaced the jibs for light upwind work in addition to many off wind angles. The luff is as straight as possible, and the sail is flatter than other asymmetric spinnakers. Due to the flatness of the code 0, it is usually made with a high modulus luff line for supporting strength, and of a heavier, less stretchy fabric than normal for a spinnaker.)
Early code zeros were mostly racing and to conform to an ORC race rule that would count this type of sail as a Genoa. They optimally are in front of the forestay say on a bowsprit because the better it will perform at deeper angles with more sail area. That said they're made for cruising these days as well and many are made to be in the furler. As far as difference from a drifter comes down to shape and materials. If I were sailing in San Francisco I'd like the option to ride the code zero in building conditions. Most drifters will be made of materials that you'd NOT want in air that gusted above 8.
 
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PDX

Member III
I have a cruising asymmetrical and drifter both, with the drifter also flown as a fly sail. Both were custom made for my boat (E30-1) by Banks. Spinnaker is .75 oz nylon while the drifter is 1.5 oz nylon. The spinnaker is a lot fuller with a tons more sail area high up. The drifter is shaped like a genoa only slightly fuller. The drifter (a 150) has less than 2/3 the sail area of the spinnaker. My understanding is a Code Zero is about halfway between these two sail shapes.

I fly my spinnaker outside from a block on the bow roller (about 12 inches from the steamhead). The drifter I sheet inside on the stemhead behind the roller furler tackpoint.

In light air and heavy both I prefer the drifter. Not familiar with the light air sailing in SFBay. The Columbia River, in summer, is upwind downwind sailing with the wind starting light in morning and then generally building constantly during the afternoon to mid teens low twenties (gusting higher) by early evening. The Columbia also is narrow, obviously, in comparison with SFBay and has congestion and barge traffic. Under those conditions I much prefer the drifter. Its easier to keep full in light air and way easier to control in heavy air.

Also, disagree that the spinnaker is easier to gybe. In my experience its the opposite. And, for dead downwind sailing, the drifter is easier to goosewing. And I don't do double headsail. I wing out the main with the boom to weather, use it to feed the drifter on the other side. I use a preventer to hold the boom to weather. Some people do it with a vang.

In the Bay you have more room and maybe conditions that would make spinnaker flying easier, such as steadier wind velocity and direction.
 

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thanks so much; this is incredibly helpful!

@geckler3 :
Yes, I would definitely like to be able to ride the sail as the wind builds. When you say "gusted above 8", you mean Force 8? Or 8 kts? The latter sounds very low, the former is higher than I ever sail in up here -- SF Bay gets to Force 6 daily, but only to low/mid F7 on the bigger summer days. Realistically, even downwind I'd be taking down a huge sail by 25kts, probably by sustained 22 -- I'm not a racer, and am singlehanding.

- Regular spinnakers I think are 3/4oz nylon; is that what you are suggesting I avoid here?

- To make sure I understand, by Code Zero you mean something like what PDX describes above, bigger than a drifter/150% genoa and smaller than an asymmetrical?

@PDX :
The wind here is definitely pretty steady/predictable, especially in the summer. However the winter has a lot of 3-6 kt days that I have been avoiding, since the boat isn't that fun in < 7 kts, especially downwind. I am envisioning a sail that I can use to liven that up, but not so large/delicate that I can't pop it up for a long downwind run in 15-20 kts (on J24's I used to put up a 150 genoa for this, but don't want to have to change an attached-luff headsail for just that end-of day run.)

- Could you say more about why your drifter is easier to gybe than the asymmetrical? I have no significant experience with this, but it seems like getting the big drifter through the foretriangle would be a hassle. To the extent it's easier, the case for the drifter/code zero is much greater in my book (I have to gybe a number of times on my way home). Do you use some additional line to pull the clew in toward the forestay or something (I forget what people call that system)?

- How do you find the 1.5oz drifter to handle solo? The light (0.75 oz) asymmetrical weight is tempting, since it sounds so easy to handle single-handed, and maybe easier to get a sock down over (I will not have roller furling for this (2nd) foresail.)

- If you were about to buy a sail like this, knowing what you do now, would you just get the same drifter you have now, or would you size up a bit toward a code zero (as geckler3 describes, if I am understanding what we are all talking about.)

@Prairie Schooner :
Thanks for your link; I had run across it too, after my original post when I started googling 'code zero' in response to geckler3's comment. The cruising asymmetric use-range looked pretty handy to me, but the fact that PDX, geckler3, and my sailmaker are saying similar things (as far as I can tell) has me shifting toward the drifter/code zero instead.
I found this link had a helpful picture:
unfortunately the link below then shows a code zero that looks... just like the cruising spinnaker in the previous link. Damnit.
for wont of clarity from the web, I am now operating based on PDX's description of the sails.
 

geckler3

Junior Member
Thanks so much; this is incredibly helpful!

@geckler3 :
Yes, I would definitely like to be able to ride the sail as the wind builds. When you say "gusted above 8", you mean Force 8? Or 8 kts? The latter sounds very low, the former is higher than I ever sail in up here -- SF Bay gets to Force 6 daily, but only to low/mid F7 on the bigger summer days. Realistically, even downwind I'd be taking down a huge sail by 25kts, probably by sustained 22 -- I'm not a racer, and am singlehanding.

- Regular spinnakers I think are 3/4oz nylon; is that what you are suggesting I avoid here?

- To make sure I understand, by Code Zero you mean something like what PDX describes above, bigger than a drifter/150% genoa and smaller than an asymmetrical?

@PDX :
The wind here is definitely pretty steady/predictable, especially in the summer. However the winter has a lot of 3-6 kt days that I have been avoiding, since the boat isn't that fun in < 7 kts, especially downwind. I am envisioning a sail that I can use to liven that up, but not so large/delicate that I can't pop it up for a long downwind run in 15-20 kts (on J24's I used to put up a 150 genoa for this, but don't want to have to change an attached-luff headsail for just that end-of day run.)

- Could you say more about why your drifter is easier to gybe than the asymmetrical? I have no significant experience with this, but it seems like getting the big drifter through the foretriangle would be a hassle. To the extent it's easier, the case for the drifter/code zero is much greater in my book (I have to gybe a number of times on my way home). Do you use some additional line to pull the clew in toward the forestay or something (I forget what people call that system)?

- How do you find the 1.5oz drifter to handle solo? The light (0.75 oz) asymmetrical weight is tempting, since it sounds so easy to handle single-handed, and maybe easier to get a sock down over (I will not have roller furling for this (2nd) foresail.)

- If you were about to buy a sail like this, knowing what you do now, would you just get the same drifter you have now, or would you size up a bit toward a code zero (as geckler3 describes, if I am understanding what we are all talking about.)

@Prairie Schooner :
Thanks for your link; I had run across it too, after my original post when I started googling 'code zero' in response to geckler3's comment. The cruising asymmetric use-range looked pretty handy to me, but the fact that PDX, geckler3, and my sailmaker are saying similar things (as far as I can tell) has me shifting toward the drifter/code zero instead.
I found this link had a helpful picture:
unfortunately the link below then shows a code zero that looks... just like the cruising spinnaker in the previous link. Damnit.
for wont of clarity from the web, I am now operating based on PDX's description of the sails.
Well, in my experience drifters are most often light air nylon material. I meant 8kts. Realistically can handle higher but you don't want a drifter up when you see whitecaps. Today's code zeros are often designed to fit in a top down furler. They look like the following:


A good rule of thumb for size of a code zero is 60% of the sail area of a full-size spin and about 2x the size of a non-overlapping genoa.
 
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steven

Sustaining Member
I have a 160 nylon genny which can theoretcially can hank on a headstay. But I have a roller furled working jib so I set it flying.
Tacks/gybes inside the headstay. I have the tack on a line through a block near the stem and led aft. So I can set it and douse it from the cockpit.
In light air (under 8kts apparent) I use it without the main.

I also have an asymetrical spinnaker (Flasher) from a previous smaller boat. It's nice to have it undersized because I can handle solo. I don't use it much - suitable for long broad reach so don't have to tack it. I avoid a dead run and with no main to block the airflow don't really need a pole.
 

PDX

Member III
The wind here is definitely pretty steady/predictable, especially in the summer. However the winter has a lot of 3-6 kt days that I have been avoiding, since the boat isn't that fun in < 7 kts, especially downwind. I am envisioning a sail that I can use to liven that up, but not so large/delicate that I can't pop it up for a long downwind run in 15-20 kts (on J24's I used to put up a 150 genoa for this, but don't want to have to change an attached-luff headsail for just that end-of day run.)

You won't beat a drifter for versatility in different wind conditions/points of sail. On my boat (which is pretty tender) I can sail upwind up to about 10 kts with no main up. With the main, its more like 7 or 8, but I generally sail without the main in light air. An assymetrical will not help you upwind, period. On light air days it is harder to fill than a drifter. Downwind the drifter can be used in 15-20 kt wind. People here race 3/4 oz chutes in those conditions but I would not choose to do it for normal sailing, short handed.

- Could you say more about why your drifter is easier to gybe than the asymmetrical? I have no significant experience with this, but it seems like getting the big drifter through the foretriangle would be a hassle. To the extent it's easier, the case for the drifter/code zero is much greater in my book (I have to gybe a number of times on my way home). Do you use some additional line to pull the clew in toward the forestay or something (I forget what people call that system)?

Mechanically, a drifter gype is the same thing as a 150 genoa. Physically it is easier because it weighs 1.5 oz instead of 5.5 or whatever big genoas weigh. I think the public has been oversold on how easy asymmetricals are to gybe short handed. I think a lot of it is premised on the assumption people are using those high end furling ropes mounted on sprits. Lacking that, If you flying it in front of headstay, without a sprit, you pretty much have to do an outside gybe. Which means you have to run your sheets in front of your sail and outside the lifelines. Easy for sheets to fall off into the water, and good luck getting them back in the boat once that happens. People tape them down and then release them for gybes and that's fine. But you can't really do that single handing.

- How do you find the 1.5oz drifter to handle solo? The light (0.75 oz) asymmetrical weight is tempting, since it sounds so easy to handle single-handed, and maybe easier to get a sock down over (I will not have roller furling for this (2nd) foresail.)

The weight doesn't bother me, maybe because I'm used to it. The light air sail the boat came with was an oversized 1.5 oz drifter. Way too big for the boat--don't know where the PO got it. So I had the sailmaker make a cruising asymmetrical which I found too temperamental for sailing short handed in Columbia River conditions. If you have a crew of 3 or 4 who know what they're doing, fine. But I don't. So then I had him make me a 150 drifter. You're right, though. My .75 asymmetrical is definitely easier to get a sock over even though it is physically much larger.

- If you were about to buy a sail like this, knowing what you do now, would you just get the same drifter you have now, or would you size up a bit toward a code zero (as geckler3 describes, if I am understanding what we are all talking about.)

I would definitely not size up. But I don't race. I'm just interested in getting up the river, upcurrent and downwind. The 150 is plenty for that. The asymmetrical can overpower my boat if I'm not careful. But by late afternoon the winds are high teens. And my boat is only 30 ft about 9000 lbs. Relatively short water line. Probably not a good comparison to your boat.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Worth noting is that the E-34-2 is intrinsically very fast in light air. If the bottom is clean, only one other thing can slow it down in those conditions- a fixed prop. If you can spare the $, a feathering or folding prop will give you another half knot of speed.
 

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thanks again, folks.

- Looks like sailmaker is talking about a spinnaker-cloth sail (that looks roughly like a gennoa/drifter). Based on you comments, I will go back and discuss a heavier fabric, as mentioned by both @PDX and @geckler3 , and what changes would be involved in making it Code Zero-ish. He is suggesting ~ 150%-ish, which matches what PDX suggested, the 160% from steven, and the ~2X ratio compared to a 100% per geckler3. Helpful that all the advice is so consistent -- makes decisions much easier!

I have the tack on a line through a block near the stem and led aft. So I can set it and douse it from the cockpit.
Thanks! Could you describe this more? I am not sure I understand quite how the system works.
Separatwely, I am unlikely to do a dead run; fine with me never going further than ~160 deg AWA or so.

@Loren Beach : Also thanks. I have a folding kiwiprop which... doesn't fold (I can tell because the engine windmills if I don't stick it in reverse while sailing). Maybe I will get a new one -- I had not realized the benefit was 0.5 kts, which is a good bit
Still, that alone will not solve the "fun at 4 kts TWS" problem for me, and I would like to have a lazy-person's 'chute (what I used to call my 150) for the downwind run home in higher winds. Hull is generally decently clean -- need a diver every couple of months around here.

PS: for anyone later looking at this same topic, the following links were also useful:
(found in relation to geckler3's comments on cloth and Code Zeros)
https://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/202816-what-cloth-for-a-code-zero-jib/
(good pictures of the sails, distinguising asymmetrical spinnaker and Code Zeros for both boats designed for overlapping (I think most Ericsons) and non-overlapping jibs):
https://www.uksailmakers.com/sails-overview-cruising-spinnakers/cruising-code-zero
 
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N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thanks again for the advice! I talked with the sailmaker and am going with a 155% made of 1.5oz nylon. Supposedly this is OK up to 6 kts true pointing, and up to 20 reaching and 25+ downwind (he says the boat will be sufficiently scary/overpowered reaching and downwind that I'll take it down prior to windspeed being enough to damage the sail; it seems like pointing is the issue, with no real indication that one is doing damage... I guess monitoring the windspeed (a bit tricky since my knotmeter often fouls, leaving me reading apparent, not true, and doing math in my head)).

He seemed to think this was the most useful (and forgiving) option for the local conditions... I'll let you know how it goes.

Note: Feel free to continue to post any thoughts; I still have a week or two before the trigger gets fully pulled on the sail purchase.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Steve I have the tack on a line through a block near the stem and led aft. So I can set it and douse it from the cockpit.
Thanks! Could you describe this more? I am not sure I understand quite how the system works.
Hi N.A., Our new-to-us E35-3 has this:
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/sheaves-at-the-top-of-mast-e381.19473/#post-151837 post #11

We haven't had time to try it out, but it's similar to what I've used on other boats.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
I don't think you will need a knot meter to know when you are over powered! If you are in doubt look to the faces of your crew or guests. That might give a good indication. Sounds fun!
 

p.gazibara

Member III
Cinderella came with 4 spinnakers. All symmetrical. We kept the reaching chute in a sock for cruising. Used it a bunch, sailed the whole Mexican coast jibing twice daily (sea breeze and land breeze)

When arriving in NZ , I learned my boss did a deal with Web Chiles a while back and got a code 0/gennaker on a facnor continuous furler from his old boat (I think my old boss scrapped the whole boat).

I made a retractable sprit out of my reaching strut and an old collapsible spinnaker pole. The facnor furler makes singlehanding with the code 0/gennaker super easy. Want to jibe? Pull a line, watch the huge sail disappear, turn boat, pull the opposite sheet and out comes the sail on the other side.

It’s amazing, I just did a 30 mile solo sail over the weekend. On the way back to the marina the wind was light and the swell was up. I was so happy to have the light sail on the furler for the downwind return. In the swell I had to maintain about 120-140 degrees to have enough apparent to keep the sail drawing, but jibing was so easy it wasn’t an issue to jibe a couple times.

The facnor furler has an attachment that allows it use with an asym, that way you can use the furler with either light wind sail.
-p
 

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thanks, @p.gazibara -- I'll look at the facnor. The issue the sailmaker saw was that I have no spinnaker halyard, so the top of the drifter/asymmetrical/code zero would interfere with the main jib roller furling up high (if I set it up with roller furling). Plus there are no convenient holes on the anchor roller/stem fitting. Maybe I should be looking more at solving that, though -- the videos of people rolling/unrolling their Code zeros are mesmerizing to watch, and it sees handy for sure. @Prairie Schooner 's approach might put the base far enough forward... though the sailmaker thought not. Sailmaker is suggesting tack mounted aft of the forestay, which would necessitate taking the sail down to get the main jib open.

@G Kiba : I need the knotmeter not to know if I'm overpowered, but to know if I'm in > 6kts True Wind when close reaching -- sailmaker was clear one would damage the sail if loading it that way, and my ability to distinguish 6 from 8 kts true is probably insufficient when what I feel (and what I read on my windguage, when the knotmeter is fouled/jammed at zero) is apparent. Conveniently the sail is suppose to be resilient to much higher winds reaching or running... apparently it's just when pointing high(ish) that one has to watch out.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
I raced for a long time on a Peterson 34. The skipper bought a used asymm that we experimented with for several years. We tacked it just ahead of the forestay and were able to gybe okay. I've also raced on a J-105 with a proper bowsprit. I feel it's not a binary thing. Further out is better for a gybe, but closer to the bow can be made to work. Performance-wise, on a reach the asymm didn't seem to be any better than the symmetrical spinnakers we used. We had one cut a little flatter. That might have been helped by a bowsprit. I've inherited that asymm and we're going to try it on that anchor crane block of our E35-3 later this summer. We'll see.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
most generally useful for a singlehanding non-racing Ericson;

Do you do a lot of sailing in less than 6 knots true? That's pretty light air not to be able to close reach. I'm surprised that a sail that's OK in 20 knots off the wind has to retreat so much upwind.

But then, a genoa becomes more efficient above a beam reach so maybe that's the point.

My eye was caught by the type of sailing suggested by the italic line above. Changing sails is OK, but it gets old fast. Ericsons profit some from increased sail area, but for cruising the gain is limited. And when the wind is dying a good question to ask is: at what point do I turn on the engine?

Me, pretty early. I hate dogging along at 2 knots in slop. You just don't get anywhere. I suppose I am advocating simplicity and multitalented sails for singlehanded cruisers.
 
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