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E34 PYI Dripless Shaft Seal Replacement

B

Brookelise

Member II
Has anyone here replaced a PYI dripless shaft seal with the updating kit for their E30, 32, 34, 35 or 38?

The directions begin:

1. Unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission coupling.
2. Remove the shaft coupling from the shaft.

First question: Is it really necessary to unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission coupling, or can one just proceed to step 2 and remove the shaft from its shaft coupling, with the shaft coupling still bolted to the transmission coupling? I've removed the shaft coupling from the transmission coupling many times for various projects (including engine alignment), but I haven't removed the shaft coupling from the shaft before, so I don't know how easily it'll slide out once unbolted. Eliminating Step 1, if possible, would save some time and trouble.

Second: We're not sure what size bellows replacement to order--1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch--before taking off the old bellows. Is it possible to accurately measure the size of the old bellows at the stern tube (where shaft goes through hull) before removing it from the bare stern tube? Any tips on that?

Most grateful for any advice.

http://www.pyiinc.com/downloads/pss-shaft-seal/pss-type-a-installation-instructions.pdf

http://www.shaftseal.com/pss-installation-instructions.html#install-video
 
Pat C.

Pat C.

Member III
Removing the shaft from the coupling is much harder than you realize, and if you don't disconnect it from the transmission first you are likely to damage the transmission. Mainsail has one of his articles dedicated to this topic, I'd reference that for any questions.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
 
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Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Pat is right, altho you might be lucky and not have any significant rust binding the shaft and coupler together. If you have a digital camera capability, post up a picture of the coupling and general area.

For instance ours is clean and corrosion free, these days, but then it's only been there about 9 years and is a "split coupling". Often you will need to spray some PB Blaster on the part, being very careful about keeping the liquid away from the rear transmission seal.

All this effort is to get at the end of the shaft in order to slide the new bellows and face seal piece over it. I recall that the instructions with the PSS talk about installation details.

I have had occasion to call PYI to ask questions about their products, and they have always been very helpful on the phone, I should point out.
 
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tenders

tenders

Innocent Bystander
Squeezing the shaft out of the coupling is the worst job on my boat. My installation may be more complicated than average, because the engine has a V-drive and all the work has to be done in the very small space around and underneath it, but it’s going to be a bear no matter what. But, my shaft is only 3/4” diameter - yours is probably larger, which means more surface area to have to get out of the coupling.

Lots of comments on how to go about this here and at the moyermarineforums.com website.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?10827

My advice is to throw in the towel before you even start on this. Simply cut the old coupler off the shaft with a Sawzall, using cuts parallel to the shaft so it doesn’t get nicked, and being very careful as you approach the engine-side coupling. Then replace the shaft coupler with a version called a “split coupler.” Accept that you might need to pay a machine shop to bore and broach the split coupler to your shaft. It will be money well spent and time well saved.

But my forecast is that you will look at that coupler, figure you only have to move that shaft two inches, how hard can it be, and not take tenders’ advice. But in a couple of weeks, maybe even months, once the shaft is properly attached to the engine again, you will end up agreeing with me.
 
Afrakes

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Shaft separating from coupler

I tried and tried to get the 3/4" shaft to separate from the coupler on my 28 and couldn't do it, Ended up cutting the 31 year old shaft off just in front of the coupling. Just as well because the shaft was severely worn at the stuffing box and needed to be replaced. Had to apply gentle heat and press the remaining shaft out of the coupler. Not an easy job on an old boat.
 
tenders

tenders

Innocent Bystander
Nice, if it fits.

My space doesn't have enough room to fit that bolt into (won't even accommodate a ratchet with a socket), and the V-drive Atomic Four coupling has 3 holes, not 4 as that was designed for!

It might be possible to home-make one of those from a 1/2" slab of G10 and a set of increasingly long Grade 8 fine-thread bolts or cap screws. The plate doesn't really even need to be round, does it!

Hopefully your installation will be easier to work on.
 
Teranodon

Teranodon

Member III
I did a rebuild of the dripless seal on my 1988 E34 last fall. It was dripping.

After unbolting the coupler from the transmission, I pushed the shaft aft and stuck a socket in between, then tightened the bolts slowly (I may have gotten some longer bolts for this - can't remember). This squeezed the socket against the shaft, gradually pushing the coupler off. The diameter of the socket has to be less than the diameter of the shaft (duh).

Before starting the rebuild, I stupidly ordered the wrong size kit. PSS was good about it, they swapped for no charge. But what is the right size? I'll go rummaging in my papers tomorrow to find out.

Nasty job. Good luck.
 
B

Brookelise

Member II
Dripless shaft rebuild

Thanks so much, Stefan.

Teranodon said:
I did a rebuild of the dripless seal on my 1988 E34 last fall. It was dripping.

After unbolting the coupler from the transmission, I pushed the shaft aft and stuck a socket in between, then tightened the bolts slowly (I may have gotten some longer bolts for this - can't remember). This squeezed the socket against the shaft, gradually pushing the coupler off. The diameter of the socket has to be less than the diameter of the shaft (duh).

Before starting the rebuild, I stupidly ordered the wrong size kit. PSS was good about it, they swapped for no charge. But what is the right size? I'll go rummaging in my papers tomorrow to find out.

Nasty job. Good luck.
Click to expand...
 
Teranodon

Teranodon

Member III
Teranodon said:
But what is the right size? I'll go rummaging in my papers tomorrow to find out.
Click to expand...


Rummaged. Stern tube diameter = 1 3/4"

And another thing: even though there are set screws to keep the rotor fixed to the shaft, it is good practice to put a hose clamp on the shaft as well.
 
Last edited:
bgary

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Teranodon said:
And another thing: even though there are set screws to keep the rotor fixed to the shaft, it is good practice to put a hose clamp on the shaft as well.
Click to expand...

I called PSS (on a related quest) and they recommended a pair of shaft-clamps to back up the rotor and keep it from moving.

I got a pair of clamps from McMaster-Carr - if I recall correctly, it was these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-clamps/=1cfv58e

Bruce
 
S

supersailor

Contributing Partner
bgary said:
I called PSS (on a related quest) and they recommended a pair of shaft-clamps to back up the rotor and keep it from moving.

I got a pair of clamps from McMaster-Carr - if I recall correctly, it was these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-clamps/=1cfv58e

Bruce
Click to expand...

Great! I did not like the fact that my PSS did not seem to clamp tight enough to the shaft. I just tried to order one from McMaster Carr. Their ordering system seems to be frustrating. As soon as I get the reason from failure from them, it will be on order. I don't really have room for two as my flexible coupling will get in the way.
 
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