E35-2 Mast Base Turning Block Attachment Plate

[Farlander]

Hi All,

I'm considering have the mast pulled to work on the compression block, and while I'm at it I figured I should plan to install a base plate with holes to attach turning blocks for running lines aft to the cockpit.

Has anyone done this on the 35-2? Is there an off the shelf part or is custom fab the way to go?

What's the best attachment method, if any? If the plate sits under the mast, is losing too much of the mast shoe height a concern? Can the plate sit outside of the mast base?

 

[Afrakes]

There are a number of off the shelf products available. You "simply" remove the mast base, install the block organizer and reinstall the mast base. Give us your cross sectional mast dimensions. I have a spare. I'll dig it out and see if it will work with your mast.

 

[Loren Beach]

FWIW, I designed a U-shaped base with a 45 degree bend outward on all sides for our prior boat. It made attaching halyard turning blocks a lot easier. Local welder made it up quickly out of 3/8" aluminum, and I had it anodized. There are SS versions for sale, or you could have one fab'd up.
Perhaps something like these designs from our friends at Garhauer... https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-plates.html

 

[bigd14]

I got one of the Garhauer mast plates for the last boat. It was well made. I did have to enlarge one of the holes slightly with a file to fit a certain block, but otherwise it worked well. I am not sure what brand is on the current boat but it is held down through the mast step with three big wood screws. The material is probably only about 1/8" thick so you should have plenty of adjustment in the rigging to account for it.

 

[toddster]

I also found the best deal at Garhauer. And had to drill holes in it. A new Milwaukee "Dozer" hole saw cut right through it for the wiring channel.

A lot of the other plates that I shopped wouldn't actually fit.

 

[Christian Williams]

You gotta love Garhauer. How they can price those at $30-$50 retail is way outside of usual.

 

[Farlander]

I'm confused about the horseshoe shaped mast "shoe". Isn't the "shoe" normally glassed in? In my case, since there's a steel plate beneath deck surface, I would assume the plate is glassed in and then the shoe is glassed in right about that. In the photo above it looks like the shoe is not attached to anything.

 

[Loren Beach]

I'm confused about the horseshoe shaped mast "shoe". Isn't the "shoe" normally glassed in? In my case, since there's a steel plate beneath deck surface, I would assume the plate is glassed in and then the shoe is glassed in right about that. In the photo above it looks like the shoe is not attached to anything.

If your mast is deck-stepped, the 'shoe' only needs some fasteners to lock it into place laterally, since the down force of the spar holds it securely. If your spar is thru stepped like mine, the 'shoe' has to be thru-bolted to backing plate material to resist the up force from the turning blocks -- and then the adjacent cabin top needs a tie to the mast section or base, inside. NA Bob Perry calls that little bit of rigging a "tie rod".
Note that the one potential weakness of any deck-stepped spar is rot in any absorbent medium under it from those fastenings. That's why so many repairs are done with metal plates (well sealed) or thick sections of G10.

 

[bigd14]

Yes that is a potential weak spot in deck stepped masts. I believe I have some minor rot in that area from poorly bedded screw holes which is causing a very slight lean in the mast. So far it’s been stable and I sealed those 3 wood screws through the mast step and the turning block plate really well with butyl and sikaflex. I also added the standpipe to keep moisture from moving down the wiring channel into the cabin top. I am hopeful that will prevent any further decay. It’s worth taking a good look around in there when the mast is off. I am now wishing I had torn into that area and replaced the plywood with G10. Oh well.