E35: Epoxy - Steel- Chainplate, Input Requested

SkipperDave

Junior Member
I posted a thread a little over a month ago as I was preparing to dig into the main salon bulkhead on my Ericson 35 MkII where a poorly bedded chainplate left a dangerous situation and am grateful for the advice I got then from this wonderful site... I have cut a piece of white oak to scarf in where the old wood had rotted. I kept the fiberglass tabbing to the hull on one side and am getting ready to a) epoxy scarfed piece in b) glass in the scarfed piece on the head side where I have removed the shelving above sink and ground down, etc. Pics show about where I am at and am wondering what thoughts other owners have about project. My inclination is to make a fillet on "head side" along inside hull edge where scarf meets hull to accept new glass "tabbing/layup" which would travel across new piece over to abt 4" of old solid bulkhead. Then, on salon side, maybe have a piece of stainless steel made to line up with chain plate bolt holes and then have the new steel plate extend over old bulkhead about 5" or so with about 6-8 holes drilled along side chain plate into old bulkhead to SPREAD LOAD across width. (Blue tape in pics indicate approximately where fliberglass on one side would go and steel plate on other side would be. Was going to apply matt/roving/matt/roving/cloth with West System epoxy and 406 filler or 403 Microfibers. On other side just 1/8" steel plate sandwiched between chainplate and bulkhead. Does this sound like overKILL? Any suggestions, ideas for modification or comments would be most appreciated.
--David
 

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exoduse35

Sustaining Member
this looks vaguely familiar! and allot like the repair done on mine by the P/O. One thing I did notice he had done one thing you have not. That is that he cut a saw tooth into the bottom of the splice. that is to say he used a wider piece then trimmed the width as to leave a extra "V" at the bottom and adding a corresponding notch in the old wall so that as upward force is applied to the new piece it tries to lift and tighten against the old one. Seems like a good idea to me. Also it is a good idea to return the cover plate pieces in the salon in such a way they can be removed for inspection from time. Edd:egrin:
 

robjpowell

Member II
All too familiar. This was last years project for me. I did not use an additional stainless plate but instead used, as Edd mentions, a tapered piece of marine ply. Mine is around 8" wide at the top (in fact it would be very close to being where your blue tape is) and a third as wide again at the bottom (133% of top width). the joints were scarfed on the head side and had 3 layers of mat on both sides. After one season it appears to be solid and I am not yet regretting the lack of an additional backing plate.

Have fun
Rob
 
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