Originally posted by Sean Engle
I'm looking into purchasing a 1986 E35 MKIII, and have problem.
This boat has experienced some leaks somewhere in the coach roof area that ended up running down the starboard side of the coachouse sides - staining the teak veneer, and in a couple of places, rotting it.
That was a problem I had in my boat also. In the case of my E31, the looped teak cabin top handholds were leaking and water was migrating down the 1/4" screws and onto the top of the vinyl headliner. From there it made its way to the sides of the liner where it contacted the ferrous staples Ericson unwisely used to install the headliner. These of course, rusted and as the water continued its path downward, stained the 1/4" teak veneer that comprises the vertical side of the interior of my cabin top with black streaks.
Jeff Tobrocke is correct that you need to repair the leaks before starting the restoration of the veneer. I removed my handrails which consisted of taking down the headliner sufficient to permit access to the nuts on the underside. Your handrails might be fastened differently but you'll need to address the leaks first or all else will be a big waste of our time. If you discover that the edge grain balse beneath the astenings has gotten wet and rotted, you might want to consider inserting the short end of an allen wrench into your drill motor and fishing the long end into the screw hole from the outside of the cabin and while spinning the wrench in the hole, raising and lowering it so as to sling the rotten balsa away from, and clearing the area around the hole.
Allow that to dry some in there, tape the bottom of the hole and proceed to inject West Syatem #105 epoxy into the void you have created with the allen wrench by using a plastic (think Tupperware type plastic) syringe available at West Marine. You must completely fill the void. After that cures, drill out the holes through the center of the epoxy and reinstall the handholds using 3M 101 sealant or a suitable type of your choosing as a bedding compound. I would recommend using self locking nuts and fender washers to prevent the fasteners from loosening even a slight amount.
If you can live with the amount of rot on the veneer, the stains are easily removed with a mix of oxcalic acid and water therefor avoiding the whole veneer. As I recall, there are several types at West Marine to choose from. Apply the stuff directly to the stains over and over until the stain is magically gone. The secret is being patient. Just keeping doing it until you're satisfied with it.
Consider using "Git Rot" available at WM for the rot if necessary.
My veneer actually delaminated from the plywood, necessitating my making two vertical cuts quite close to one another with an Xacto knife which allowed me to apply small amounts of 105 under the delam. As part of the same cosmetic repair process, I had prepared a batten that I applied more 105 to and laid over the cut and temporarily held in place with staples.
I counterboared the batten in three places and placed the staples in the holes so that the next day I was able to remove the staples and plug the holes leaving the impression that the batten had been screwed in. I also instralled a second batten in the same manner on the other side of the cabin for symmetry.
I'm attaching a view of the interior of my cabin where you can see the batten in question and the three teak plugs. It's just to the right of the
brass lamp.
Regards,
Glyn Judson
s/v Dawn Treader, an Ericson Independence 31, hull #55
Marina del Rey CA