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E38 Bonding
- Thread starter fogbank
- Start date
I don't believe there is generally a bonding system on our fiberglass boats. Typically, that would relate to bronze thru-hulls on a metal hull. Even if you have bronze thru-hulls, on our boats the thru-hull is usually sandwiched between fiberglass (hull) and rubber (hoses), so cathodic corrosion is not a factor.
SS keel bolts will corrode if exposed to water inside the keel connection, but that's just rust, IMHO, and not a cathodic issue that would be solved by bonding.
SS keel bolts will corrode if exposed to water inside the keel connection, but that's just rust, IMHO, and not a cathodic issue that would be solved by bonding.
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I know of ABYC certified electricians that believe that all of the metal skin fittings (like bronze thruhulls) on an FRP hull should be bonded. And others, who disagree and do not recommend bonding.
Some admit that this particular issue is not nearly as "settled" as the ABYC book would have us think.
Ericson Yachts happily side stepped this issue by installing composite thruhulls and valves -- RC Marine in the 80's and then the same product after ForeSpar bought up the rights in the late 80's. By the early 90's ForeSpar had redesigned them and had (and still has) a line of true sea cocks with integral valves. The later is what we upgraded to a long time ago.
IF I had bronze fittings I would not wire them together, but is only my opinion; I am not an electrician.
The keel bolts on any of our boats should never see any sea water... presuming the keel mating surface is properly sealed.
Different subject, but keels in lightning-prone areas are often grounded.... to the mast.
Some admit that this particular issue is not nearly as "settled" as the ABYC book would have us think.
Ericson Yachts happily side stepped this issue by installing composite thruhulls and valves -- RC Marine in the 80's and then the same product after ForeSpar bought up the rights in the late 80's. By the early 90's ForeSpar had redesigned them and had (and still has) a line of true sea cocks with integral valves. The later is what we upgraded to a long time ago.
IF I had bronze fittings I would not wire them together, but is only my opinion; I am not an electrician.
The keel bolts on any of our boats should never see any sea water... presuming the keel mating surface is properly sealed.
Different subject, but keels in lightning-prone areas are often grounded.... to the mast.
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Aqua V
Member I
In the process of replacing a couple of thru-hull lugs that I snapped off in the aft bonding section, which includes bond connections to thru-hulls, gas tank and filler hose, cutlass bearing housing, rudder post, back-stay. The forward section is in good shape, with the keel grounding lug easy access. After reading many write-ups form all types of "experts" I'm debating even re-lugging and connecting...
My Pearson users manual diagram (1980) is helpful, although jury's still out on connecting the engine to the bond grid to the engine, as your providing a direct path through the engine for any lightning current ???
My Pearson users manual diagram (1980) is helpful, although jury's still out on connecting the engine to the bond grid to the engine, as your providing a direct path through the engine for any lightning current ???
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bonding P-32, 1980.jpg