E38 Chainplate U-Bolts and Replacements

Drewm3i

Member III
I did this project on my 38-200 and the Garhauer replacements required widening the holes in the deck and aluminum backing plate (that holds the tie rod).

As far as I know, the u-bolts on your 32-3 are a size smaller than the ones used on the 38 (not sure about the 34 and 35).
The broken chainplate after shroud removed; these u bolts were glued in place with 5200 and to...jpg
The Broken Chainplate.jpg
The deck after removal of the stainless steel u-bolts.jpg
Despite being solid, all exposed core should be sealed with epoxy prior to bedding hardware.jpg
Chainplate Aluminum backing plate up close.jpgChainplate tie rod holds the deck down, while the rigging pulls it up; tie rod is screwed into...jpg
This white aluminum oxide powder is the result of years of electrolysis in the absence of oxygen.jpg
 

Filkee

Sustaining Member
I did this project on my 38-200 and the Garhauer replacements required widening the holes in the deck and aluminum backing plate (that holds the tie rod).

As far as I know, the u-bolts on your 32-3 are a size smaller than the ones used on the 38 (not sure about the 34 and 35).
I’m going to send the bits to them to make sure it comes out right.
 

Filkee

Sustaining Member
IMG_1328.jpegIMG_1327.jpeg
Successfully extracted first U bolt today. No bad balsa but the top of the block is a wee bit rough. If this is 40 years of deterioration, can I clean it up a bit and go for 40 more or is that bad parenting?
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
View attachment 53869
Successfully extracted first U bolt today. No bad balsa but the top of the block is a wee bit rough. If this is 40 years of deterioration, can I clean it up a bit and go for 40 more or is that bad parenting?

Yes, you can re-use the blocks. I had the yard bead-blast them to clean up the pocked surface. You can do the cleanup yourself, the corrosion just needs to be removed. Then I coated the uneven top surface with epoxy to make it smooth to go against the underside of the deck.

U-Bolt_Blocks_Cleaned-Repaired03.jpg
 

Filkee

Sustaining Member
For a minute I got kind of expansive and thought, “Oh, while I have these things pulled apart, I might as well replace the lower turnbuckles and screws,” but then I looked at the price (on Rigrite) and my head exploded. Is Navtec like Apple or is there a reasonable alternative?
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Yeah, the Navtec-style turnbuckles are obsolete, so Rig-Rite charges exorbitant prices for what they have left in stock. The typical answer is to switch over to modern open-body turnbuckles (many folks use Hayn), but this pretty much means all new standing rigging.
20220502_173537.jpg

Like I mentioned in post #74, if you get new turnbuckles, you'll likely find that most standard-sized rigging toggles (shackles) will fit either the chainplate or the turnbuckle eyes, but not both. The solution is to either "right-size" the chainplates when having new ones made, or, more likely, to have custom toggles made to fix the sizing mis-match between the chainplates and turnbuckles.
 

Drewm3i

Member III
For a minute I got kind of expansive and thought, “Oh, while I have these things pulled apart, I might as well replace the lower turnbuckles and screws,” but then I looked at the price (on Rigrite) and my head exploded. Is Navtec like Apple or is there a reasonable alternative?
If you're not replacing the rigging wires (if original, I probably would), there is almost no conceivable reason to replace those (very nice and high quality) BRONZE stud turnbuckles.
 
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