E380 Cutless Bearing Replacement

[Dan W]

Hi Everyone - long time viewer, first time poster. I'm in the middle of a cutless bearing project and wanted to bounce a few questions off the forum:

1) Set Screws: There are no set screws on the existing strut and bearing - appears to have been a pure "press fit". Folks at the boatyard are recommending I drill and tap the strut for set screws - I'm inclined to press the new bearing in and let it go at that -- any one have any experience with this?

2) Johnson or Trellex Morse Bearing: The outfit that cut a new shaft for me provide a Johnson "BADE" bearing. I noticed the metal wall thickness of the new bearing was 1/16" thick as opposed to the original bearing (Trellex
Morse?) that was 1/32" (came out in 2 pieces, 4" and 1 1/2"). I'm wondering if the thinner wall would be easier to press in and if it is better to have thicker rubber? If I opt for set screws I think the thicker walled bearing would be better - probably over thinking this one... any suggestions?

3) Installing the new Shaft: The old shaft just barely squeaked out past the rudder with the sloppy bearing in place --- the boat yard is suggesting that I install the shaft first, to get it past the rudder, and then the bearing. As I was planning to use a threaded rod to install the bearing I of course wanted to install the bearing first - will that work?

Any tips/advice would be appreciated ---- Thanks!

Dan W
[I]Magellanes[/I]

 

[stbdtack]

Since its an easy job i would drill and tap in holes for set screws. I have 2 set screws securing mine. (its still a snug fit and required tapping in with a wood block and hammer) The boat yard can order the correct length bearing instead of using 2 pieces as well. My propshaft just clears the rudder with the bearing installed.

 

[Dan W]

Thanks Stbdtack --- I tend to agree on the set screws, I picked up 2 today and will get the required taps for the weekend.

I'm still inclined to put the shaft in first and then try to press the bearing in. With a piece of the old bearing in place the new shaft was hard up against the rudder.

Prop should be back from Martec this week -- we'll see how it goes...

 

[stbdtack]

Dan,
My boat yard had a great tool that could remove/install bearing with the shaft in place. Hydraulic with sleeves for different size bearings. That would make your job really simple. dont forget locktite on the setscrews...

ben

 

[footrope]

I drilled and tapped for a set screw the other day while preparing to install a new cutless bearing in a strut that had none. My friend and I gouged out the old bearing and I probably don't need a set screw yet. But, I felt like the time was coming after looking at all the damage inside the strut.

Why two set screws? Is that because you are using two lengths of bearing?

My strut is 5.5 inches long and the bearing I removed was 6 inches long. I haven't found any supplier locally for a length longer than 4 inches for a 1-inch shaft diameter. Duramax is the brand. The yard recommends to just install the single length as that will be plenty of support for a short shaft. This time I tend to agree with them. (Edit: I see that the Trellex Morse can be purchased in 6" lengths.)

Is there any reason to fill the entire length of the strut?

Should a lubricant be used when pressing/tapping the new bearing into the strut?

Thanks,