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Engine control/instrument panel replacement

paul culver

Member III
I'm finally getting to this project and I was going to use Front Panel Express to make the new panel with cutouts for gauges etc. The original panel material is some sort of plastic. Do I need to stay nonconductive? The gauge housings will be grounding to the panel. FPE prefers to work with anodized aluminum but they will use other material if I provide it. If I need to stay nonconductive to be "in code" is there a particular material I should use?

Thanks
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
No need to avoid aluminum.
Instrument casings are grounded so if mounted to an aluminum panel all will be grounded together.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
It occurs to me that if one is uncertain about cast plastic, they could use 1/8 or 3/16 G10 plate. Fiber reinforced and much stronger.

I do not know if it can be water jetted like metal or the cast/raw plastic, tho.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Though individual components may be grounded (or some insulated or isolated) there are a lot of wires behind the engine panel. Wires can come loose. I wouldn't have been comfortable using a conductive panel. Especially after going through all the trouble to re-wire it.

Old panel: 20180628_181835.jpg

New Panel: 20190503_144036~2.jpg
 
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Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Loose wires are the last thing I am concerned about and the vast majority of airplane instrument panels are simple aluminum. Same for circuit breaker panels.

fwiw - I made my new circuit breaker panel out of Dibond, which is available from most engraving and sign shops. It is made for outdoor use with a thick plastic core and epoxy-coated aluminum faces. Out of curiosity I just touched the probes of a multimeter to it and the epoxy coating is non-conductive for at least that minuscule amount of current. In Powerpoint, I designed the face with labels complete with the "Ericson Yachts" script and a helmet logo, dimensioned the holes, gave the design to a sign shop, and iirc the total cost was something like $220-240. Looks like the factory made it and I'll have to get a photo when I'm at the boat next time.

DiBond e-panel = https://3acompositesusa.com/products/dibond/
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Acrylic plastic in color of choice, material cost $10 (shop scrap). Make template, have the local plastics shop do the holes and cuts.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Hmmm.... rather than build out a 50-reply thread of detailed answers & advice, you mean just go make one?
Just like that?!
Sir, that is not how the internet works!
:)
LOL -
Acrylic and ABS are cheap so I use them for practice and tooling. The 1/8" is too thin, especially in cold weather, and even 1/4" can flex in larger panels.

Something to be aware of is that many devices are made for 1/16-1/8" panel thicknesses. Below was a circuit breaker in a 1/4" ABS test piece when developing my new circuit breaker panel and it shows the problem that 1/4" can create.
20200804_162059-X2.jpg
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
By the way, on my boat the instrument mount can be flat. The E381 cockpit mold provides a protective indent already. And the protective door would still close. Others models are probably different.

IMG_5813.JPG
 

paul culver

Member III
Thanks for all the feedback. I think I will be going with anodized aluminum but taking care with isolating the positive connections on a fused buss bar in case wires come loose. How many amps should I fuse it for? Its an Atomic 4, and I guess the max draw would occur when the ignition is on and I press the starter button.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
Personally I'd prefer to use a black micarta or similar phenolic lamimate (similar to G10 but not as brittle as some. Comes in paper and cloth based laminates. Both totally water/weather proof and very rigid. Been using it for knife handles for the last 40 years.

If you really want to snazz things up they also make laminates using wood veneer laminated with phenolic resin and then dyed a bunch of different colors. Diamondwood is one brand. Shows wood grain but in all sorts of color combinations and polishes up to a mirror finish. Also weather /water resistant. You can buy all of this in small sheets 12" x 12" from knifemaking supply companies so you don't have to buy lots.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

paul culver

Member III
The project is now finished. Front Panel Express made a 3 mm anodized aluminum plate. They suggested adding 0.25 mm to all the measured diameters to ensure an easy fit and that worked well except for the gauges. I didn't notice they all had a small tab on the bottom of the bezel, presumably for alignment, so I would have had to grind them off or notch the panel cutouts. I ended up installing them with O-rings so the issue went away. The FPE folks were helpful on the phone and I highly recommend them. PS: I drilled the corner holes and enlarged the choke hole so they don't look quite as neat.
 

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Unr8tedsaw

Junior Member
The project is now finished. Front Panel Express made a 3 mm anodized aluminum plate. They suggested adding 0.25 mm to all the measured diameters to ensure an easy fit and that worked well except for the gauges. I didn't notice they all had a small tab on the bottom of the bezel, presumably for alignment, so I would have had to grind them off or notch the panel cutouts. I ended up installing them with O-rings so the issue went away. The FPE folks were helpful on the phone and I highly recommend them. PS: I drilled the corner holes and enlarged the choke hole so they don't look quite as neat.
Hi Paul, I've got the same project in queue for my E27. not all her gauges are working properly at the time. so I'd like to make sure they are working and display accurate data. Would love to get some tips and tricks and how to wire things from you.
Many thanks
 

windblown

Member III
By the way, on my boat the instrument mount can be flat. The E381 cockpit mold provides a protective indent already. And the protective door would still close. Others models are probably different.

View attachment 36948
Perhaps this should be a new thread. (I’m not clear on that yet, and would appreciate any guidance.)
I’m in the middle of re-wiring my panel, too. My original Universal plastic panel was already visibly cracked in three places, and didn’t survive the stress of pulling it away from the 5200 (or other very strong adhesive). (Silly me, I thought the challenge would be in the re-wiring part of the project!). I’m planning to go with a 3/8” Starboard flat mount (I have the material), unless others can provide a reason not to go that way. My 32-3 has a similar cockpit mold as this 381, but the engine cut-off pull switch is inconveniently positioned low on the right side wall of the cut-out, where it seems to attract the jib sheet like a magnet. I am considering moving that pull switch. This would reduce the chance of tangles with the sheet, provide a less awkward angle for pulling it to cut the engine, and allow for a nice protective hinged cover like this one on Thelonius II to be installed. Have others moved the kill pull? What else should I consider?
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Move the kill cable anywhere you want. The old hole can be finished with a push-in panel plug, which is easier than trying to fill and match.

While you're at it you might consider inverting the instruments. The ignition on top is less likely to get drowned by cockpit water, and tach etc on the bottom are easier to read from the helm position. May not be worth the effort, although it was for me.
 

windblown

Member III
Move the kill cable anywhere you want. The old hole can be finished with a push-in panel plug, which is easier than trying to fill and match.

While you're at it you might consider inverting the instruments. The ignition on top is less likely to get drowned by cockpit water, and tach etc on the bottom are easier to read from the helm position. May not be worth the effort, although it was for me.
Great. Thank you. By any chance, did you add that hinged cover?
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Yes, on both boats. Just an aluminum piano hinge and a piece of plastic. No cutouts for access (why cutouts on a splash guard?), just swing door open for ignition switch.
 
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