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Ericson 23 chain plate stanchion and bulkhead blow out

infoanalysis

New Member
I bought a 23 ericson 1976 mk 2 and found out the wooden bulkhead that anchored the chain plate was rotted so I replaced it by splitting the 1/2" marine ply so it would fit in and then bolted a plate to make the bulkhead integrated. I then glassed in the front and back so it would not happen again. I seemed like overkill to have 5 bolts connected to a 1/2 inch marine ply anchored with only 3 bolts to the liner. I was proud of the fix then I noticed the starboard side that has a fiberglass stanchion or rib that anchors the chain plate on the starboard side later, after I sailed or maybe over tightened the stays to as much as 30 pounds, it also gave out. I also live in area that has gust up to 30 mph in the Columbia River gorge. I would sail the boat with a reefed main and sometimes would accidently jib. I did not think that the fiberglass side was so flimsy-- I actually thought it was solid with a wood core. Not quite it was about an 1/8 thick and hollow with a random strand glass

First what is the stay trension specs for the inner and out stays sp I dont do this again

and second does anyone know of a good fix for the fiberglass side chain plate stanchion?
 

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  • wood chain palte bulkhead ercison 23.jpg
    wood chain palte bulkhead ercison 23.jpg
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  • starboard side stanchion chain plate.jpg
    starboard side stanchion chain plate.jpg
    138.6 KB · Views: 24

Hanktoo

Member III
here's an excellent video on tuning well worth the $20 spot https://www.amazon.com/Tuning-Your-Rig-DVD-version/dp/B0009XCZU6
30 sounds high to me, not knowing the wire dimension but on a 23' I would guess it's on the smaller side and 30 is getting up there on the gauge for the smaller dimensions. That said, 30 shouldn't be pulling out. I can't imagine that's what caused that split in the picture. Maybe because the bulkhead side wasn't handling its side of the load prior to the fix, the starboard side was flexing and overloading more over time. Does that stanchion continue on down because that doesn't look like just adding glass there is going to work.
 

infoanalysis

New Member
Thank you so much for your fast consideration on this issue. The stanchion connects at the break in an upside down "T" with the shelf behind the wood. I will send you more photos What I am thinking first is the somehow compress the stanchion back to home ( with the chain plate disconnected or tension relieved of course then using a cheese wedge on the top of the stanchion leveraging against the bottom of the deck)Then connect two L brackets on the sides and then a plate down the flat front that runs down behind the seat cushion and the wood. Screw those into the existing glass( gel coat) and then glass over. Maybe do one glass layer before the brackets go in to give more meat for the brackets.
 
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