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Ericson 30+ chainplate U bolt

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
This has come up before and I don't believe there is a source for the original bolts. I think you will probably need to have them fabricated.
 

sailorman37

Member II
One more picture of the U bolt out of the deck. Upon closer inspection they are 3 1/2" long, 2 1/16" wide (center to center), 20 tpi, 1/2" diameter. They do look in fine shape and water was not leaking past, but he boat is 32 years old. Is the smart money on replacing them? Any thoughts?

DSC02328.JPG
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
One other thing to consider is that those "U bolts" are probaby forged... i.e. they really have to withstand thousands of pounds of stress.

LB
 

Emerald

Moderator
I think Mark hit it on the head. I would be tempted to contact Navtech directly to see if you could buy direct etc. You might also find you got to talk to an engineer with some insight you're not even looking for.
 

e38 owner

Member III
I spoke with navtec. I believe Rig Rite makes them now and has all the left over inventory from Navtec. I needed new blocks. I have a machinest here that made the block portion. Rig Rite was out. They came out great. Hobie 33's have the same system. The part that has failed has been the aluminum block not U Bolt. When you look at the top the stainless bolt and aluminum block corrode.
 
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mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Can't wait to hear how much Rig-Rite wants for them. Did they say they would ever have them in stock again, or if they could be ordered?

Please tell...
 
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Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Mark, have you ever removed and rebedded the chain plates on your boat--I'm wondering how big a job that is on the E30+?
Thanks,
Frank
 

sailorman37

Member II
My rigger suggested the bolts should be replaced because they could/would fail from inside out. However, he went on to say that he reused the 1/4" thick triangular plate on the split backstay since it did not show any sign of crevice corrosion. So, if I don't see any visible issue on the U bolt, can I reuse them? Or, does work hardening create such a stress that these could go even though they look good? My real problem in Rig Rite's price. They have them in Stock, but want $289/each. I sent an email asking if that was for all 6, but their response "Sorry, all prices are each, unless otherwise specified." Ouch!
 

sailorman37

Member II
Frank,

The previous photos are from my 1980 30+. They are not a big deal to remove, but the interior headliner was removed some time ago in my complete rebuild. Hence the access was pretty good. The nuts are 3/4" and came off with very little effort. I backed off the nut to protect the thread and tapped with a hammer. After a few hits the first one came out without any damage. I'll probably check the others, but not sure about replacing based on RigRite's price at this time.

Brad
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Thanks, Brad. That's very helpful information. However, I can't believe the Rig Rite price for replacement!! They must be trying to recoup payment for design or something...:rolleyes:

Frank
 

sailorman37

Member II
After the $289 price from RigRite I called Navtec to see if they had any ideas. I talked with a very helpful gentlemen who said all those parts were in the pre CAD days and the drawings are gone and so is the inventory. As mentioned earlier, sold off to RigRite. None of the employess around at that time are still at Navtec, but he did seem to know the process. They cold formed the rod in steps around a die. The trick was to keep the S.S. from cracking in the process. He didn't seem concerned about the age of the bolts and suggested if there are no visible cracks, crevices or pits, they may be OK. He did suggest using penetrant dye to double check. Hearing how difficult the process was to make these, I'll try the dye method and see what happens, before I ask a local shop to make replacements.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Was the $289 price for just the U-bolt or for the complete U-bolt, deck plate, backing block and nuts? It would not surprise me if it was just for the U-bolt.

I have looked at the mounting block on the under side of the deck, but have not tried to remove anything. There does not appear to be any leaking, but since it is a stainless-to-aluminum connection there, I can see how corrosion could become a problem after 25+ years.

Rig-Rite is insane. And are ***holes to deal with. I found some brand new Kenyon gooseneck and outhaul boom end fittings in a marine re-sale shop for $35 each. I'm sure Rig-Rite wants at least $300 for each of them. When it comes time to replace my boom I will have Ballenger make me a new one before I spend any money with Rig-Rite.

Torresen Marine is the same way with their Universal parts. I recall they wanted close to $200 for an oil pressure alarm buzzer/light that Cole-Hersee sells for about $25.

Rig-Rite knows they are the only source for these parts and gouging people on the price does not seem to bother them at all.
 

sailorman37

Member II
Pulled all the U bolts to check since they are so critical and couldn't afford to replace all 6. I started on the easy ones and they all were fine. A little corrosion on the aluminum blocks, but no telltale cracks on the S.S. Of course the last and most difficult necessitated standing on my head in the head locker to get at the nuts. Finally got them out with much effort and found one broke apart and the other has a suspicious crack. Also pulled the chain plate and the corner with the failed threads also showed a crack. Tapped with the hammer and the whole thing disintegrated. Not to be an alarmist, but if you have original U bolts of this age (1980), you a may want to pull them as a precaution - especially if you see any rust stains on the deck.DSC02340.jpgDSC02331.JPGDSC02335.JPGDSC02337.JPGDSC02339.jpg
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Are you going to order the replacement U-bolt from RigRite? If so, please post a picture of the replacement parts; I am curious to see what they look like.

Also, What about the corrosion you mention on the aluminum backing blocks? Was that in the threaded part where the tie-rod connects or just surface corrosion? If it was in the threaded part, what can be done about that?

The crack in the base of the chain plate seems to indicate that there was considerable tension on the shrouds connected to it. I believe those are the intermediate and cap shrouds.
 
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