• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Ericson windlass as an option

rotorhead

Member II
Hello there...
Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving...

I am interested in installing a windlass for my E380 next year. I noticed that my anchor locker pan is shallow, so installing a windlass will require some fabrication. Another alternative I think would be to install the windlass on the V-berth front section, close to the wooden door leading to the front locker..

Does anybody knows if PSC offered an optional windlass, perhaps with a deeper pan so the windlass could be installed inside the anchor locker....???????

Ismael
97-E380 #24.:D
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
It was an option....

Ishael,

This exact question came up earlier this year or last year, and if you use the search function on the upper right you should be able to find the thread. At least one E-38 owner who had the factory installed windlass replied as far as I remember, with another retro-fit also replying. The anchor locker pan is shallow, but it is reinforced and supposedly fairly strong, and people have mouted vertical windlasses on the floor of the pan and cut a hole in the locker lid to allow the capstan to protrude.

Good luck!
 

lbertran

Member III
Reinforcing Anchor Locker

I installed a manual windlass in the anchor locker of my E35-3 last spring. I have found that the anchor locker is a bit too springy and could use some stiffening. I'd like to do that myself but am not sure how to proceed. I read the thread that Sean linked to above but there was no info on how to reinforce. Has anyone done this who can provide me with some guidance? Thanks.

Laura Bertran
Footloose, 1985 E35-3
Annapolis, MD
 

stbdtack

Member III
anchor locker...

My anchor locker is not even close to being strong enough to mount a windlass. Maybe other 38s are built differently. I dont even like standing in mine as it flexes and i can feel the bulkhead mounted beneath it. My original idea to was to glass in a thick plywood shelf just beneath it so that the pan rests on the wood and just bolt through the whole thing. I would have to remove the locker to do this work so I have put it off so far. The other idea was to just reinforce the floor of the pan from the top with marine ply and glass.
I have a windlass just sitting in the garage waiting to get used......

I did see another 38 with the "glassed to the hull" shelf idea recently. Seemed to be pretty strong, so maybe thats the best way. I have a lewmar horizontal windlass with a chaingypsy and separate capstan.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Easy windlass mount

Not wanting to get into a major project I took a simple approach on my 1987 E-34, copied in part from Chris Lab, and mounted the windlass just aft of the anchor locker. Since the rode doesn't drop directly into the anchor locker an open gypsy windlass is required so the rode can be removed. The chain will feed into the open locker by itself, but the chain pile has to be kicked over occasionally to make room. This is not a problem with the 50 ft of chain that I use, but could be a bother if picking up a few hundred feet. The nylon rode has to be tailed, however, I don't usually bother with the windlass until I get to the chain. Chris was happy with his installation when we discussed it.

I reinforced the bolt holes with thickened epoxy and used a steel backing plate. The stainless edge guard wasn't installed when the picture was taken.
 

Attachments

  • Windlass 008 B.jpg
    Windlass 008 B.jpg
    71.1 KB · Views: 395
  • Windlass 001 C.jpg
    Windlass 001 C.jpg
    83 KB · Views: 350
  • Windlass 007 B.jpg
    Windlass 007 B.jpg
    67 KB · Views: 343

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
lbertran said:
I installed a manual windlass in the anchor locker of my E35-3 last spring. I have found that the anchor locker is a bit too springy and could use some stiffening. I'd like to do that myself but am not sure how to proceed. I read the thread that Sean linked to above but there was no info on how to reinforce. Has anyone done this who can provide me with some guidance? Thanks.

Laura Bertran
Footloose, 1985 E35-3
Annapolis, MD

Sorry, Laura - I meant to add that one of the installations I've seen had glassed in their forepeak extensively (similar to what is discussed above) - making it very stiff to support the mounting of the windlass.

You know, there's lots of interest on this topic - it would make a great project page... You have a digital camera, right? ;)

//sse
 

escapade

Inactive Member
project timing

Laura
I'm planning on removing the anchor locker on my '88 E34 this winter to reinforce & add an attachment point for the rode as well as remove & rebed the bow cleats. I'll follow w/digital pics if you're interested. Did basically the same thing on my old E30+. Used West System epoxy, plywood & glass cloth. Made an attachment point that was very secure. Probably overkill but one never knows! Nothing that you can't do with basic tools & a little "elbow grease". Much easier than the cabin sole project of 2 years ago!!!
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade":)
 

escapade

Inactive Member
what can I say?

Tom
All I can say is it looks factory original! The cuts in the aft cabin area are a real grin to get right though, aren't they! Very nice.
Bud:oops:
 

lbertran

Member III
Hey, Bud-

I was thinking of cutting a piece of marine plywood the size of the underside of the anchor locker pan and epoxying it to the underside. Then I thought I'd glass it in an run the glass up the sides of the pan. Does that sound about right? Thanks.
Laura
 

escapade

Inactive Member
yup

Laura
That's a real good place to start. Also pay close attention to the flange where the "tub" fastens to the fore deck.
On my old 30+ this was cracked & some of the screw heads had pulled through. I added a couple layers of glass to reinforce that area also. When you reassemble "tub" to the foredeck add thickened epoxy to the screw holes before you put the calking & screws back. This helps the screws hold in the deck tremendously!
I'll follow up with pic's as soon as I get started (after duck season which closes Dec. 11).
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade":cheers:
 

rotorhead

Member II
I found this installation by Mark Reed, owner of Southern Cross, quite interesting...
http://www.peak.org/~reedbug/windlass.htm
It gives you additional space, and avoids the head-banger on the V-berth. However, the windlass motor is exposed to the salty air, as some corrosion is apparent...any concerns out there...? or spraying some CorrosionX should do....????
I guess the screws holding the Stainless plate should be thoroughly bedded to avoid water reaching the deck core...
Ismael
S/v Erica of Falmouth
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Interesting

I like that installation, and it sure does look strong. I would think it should be fairly easy to come up with some type of glassed over cover for the motor to prevent corrosion.

What I don't like is their suggestion of keeping dinghy gas in that locker - not when it seems to be open to the forepeak for gas fumes to get inside the bilge.
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I have looked at this method as well as other ideas of my own. I was thinking of removing the pan and using corecell and some beefy biaxial glass vacuum bagged to it to make it stronger. The toughest part would be reinforcing where the pan attached to the deck. Would want to get up in there and do some tabbing which could be nasty work in a tight space. This would allow mounting the unit inside the locker and running the rode down into the forepeak. What I am not so sure about though is having smelly wet anchor chain and line laying in the forepeak and draining to the bilge. I would think you would want some sort of second contained anchor locker to hold the rode that maybe had a drain over the side. Sounds like more glass work in a tight spot, but it my back sure would be happier. I came from a 28 footer with a 12.5 lb danforth to a 38 footer with a 35 lb CQR. That sucker gets heavy. :eek:
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
ted_reshetiloff said:
The toughest part would be reinforcing where the pan attached to the deck. Would want to get up in there and do some tabbing which could be nasty work in a tight space. This would allow mounting the unit inside the locker and running the rode down into the forepeak. What I am not so sure about though is having smelly wet anchor chain and line laying in the forepeak and draining to the bilge. I would think you would want some sort of second contained anchor locker to hold the rode that maybe had a drain over the side. :


I have actually crawled inside the forepeak area through the hatch opening on my 38, and boy was that a tight fit. I was able to rebed and tighten the deck cleats that way, but I can't imagine doing any glass work in there - which is what I would want to do to reinforce the pan if I were to install a windlass. Which would mean what, taking out the bulkhead? THAT sounds like a lot of work.

As for the smelly rode. The odor of my rode hits me like a brick every time I open the deck anchor locker. I can't imagine wanting that inside the boat unless you did a very good job of washing the chain off every time, or had the chain locker hermetically sealed from the rest of the boat and draining overboard. Which could be done, since there is enough room up there above the drain port. But again that would involve glassing in an entire new box.
 

rotorhead

Member II
Would it be possible to modify the deck locker pan, making it about a foot deeper, so the rode stays outside the inner locker. This way you avoid the smell, retain some storage space, and still keep the windlass outside....
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Sure you could modify it, but it might be easier just to make a new one from scratch. Take out the old one from above, make a mock up with plywood, perhaps designed to rest along the inside hull for extra support, then cover it with glass inside and out, and fasten it down like the original. That way you wouldn't face the problem of trying to work through that small opening in the forward bulkhead.

You might even be able to make some money making enlarged anchor lockers for all of the other E-38 owners out there.

Hey, I'm still unemployed......maybe I should consider it?
 
Top