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Exhaust manifold studs

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I will be removing my exhaust manifold to install studs that are long enough for the new alternator mounting bracket. Any insight on what to expect when I try to remove those studs? How have others done it and are there any pitfalls to avoid?

What about the exhaust manifold gaskets? Do they require a sealant of any kind?

I am also thinking of sand blasting and either painting or powder coating the exhaust manifold itself as long as it it off. Any thoughts?
 

Stu Jackson

C34IA Secretary
You really don't have to do that. On my engine the studs were long enough for the new bracket. On a friend's E-32, we had to remove the older too-short studs. Lotsa PB Blaster and vice grips did it. And a looong afternoon...
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
The studs on my manifold are clearly not going to be long enough. I was not so much concerned with removing the studs (although I think it will be easier with the manifold off) as I was with installing the new ones.

Without removing the manifold there will be no unthreaded part of the new stud available to grip to tighten it into the engine block.

Is an anti-seize compound or Loctite or something commonly used on the engine block side of the studs?
 

Stu Jackson

C34IA Secretary
1. Without removing the manifold there will be no unthreaded part of the new stud available to grip to tighten it into the engine block.

2. Is anti-seize compound or Loctite or something commonly used on the engine block side of the studs?

Mark,

1. As I recall when we did my friend's E-32, the thickness of the new bracket that rests against the engine is thick enough to cover what is left of the shaft of the stud and some of the first threads. The only threads you need clear are the ones at the end of the stud, past the bracket material when the nuts go on. There should be enough material sticking out to get a vice grip on it for the last twist - most of it goes in by hand. Once the alternator is removed there's room to work, although your boat may be different. We had access on both our C34 and the E-32.

2. Once in, it'll only get tighter when you place the nuts on. We didn't use anything. I'd shy away from Loctite, it just isn't gonna go anywhere. Anti-seize wouldn't hurt if you think you need to remove them, probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
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tadslc

Member III
I recently did this modification and replaced the studs. It was much easier than I thought it was going to be. I used a pair of vise grips and just took it easy, ended up having no problem.

Make sure a drain your coolant first or be really,fast in the removal / change-out.

Granted we have different models but they're similar in age.

I used a little blue loctite on the threads but it's probably not needed, didn't notice anything on the originals when they were removed.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Tad
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
You say to drain the coolant or "be really fast in the removal/changeout."

Are you saying that coolant will come out of the manifold if the studs are removed with the manifold in place? How can that be? That would imply that there is some kind of gasket where the studs exit the manifold and I see nothing like that on any parts schematics. There was also nothing like that among the replacement parts in the kit.
 
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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Mark,
Some engines have various fasteners actually penetrating into the water jacket of the cylinder head or engine block. On my Universal 5432 the exhaust manifold studs are like this. This is not a big deal but the studs MUST be resealed correctly when reinstalled or coolant will leak!

I cannot remember and cannot find the tube of product I used on the 5432 last winter but it is a very specific thread sealant for this kind of application. The product never hardens completely, seals liquid/pressure and allows for future removal. Any parts store will know what you need. IIRC, small block Chevrolet head bolts penetrate the water jacket on the block and need sealant like this so its common.

Do not use regular loctite, silicone gasket sealer, etc. Get the right stuff and save a headache. Make sure the threads on the stud and head are nice, clean and dry when reassembling.

RT
 

tadslc

Member III
Mark,

The main reason to drain the coolant is because you'll have to change out a hose from the front of the motor to the H/E.

I did have a minute amount come out when I removed the studs. I read in another post either here or on the C34 forum about coolant pouring out the stud holes. My motor is the M25.

Good Luck
 

Stu Jackson

C34IA Secretary
When my old bracket disaster occurred in 1998, all of the oil and most of the coolant leaked out (that's covered in my C34 writeup - see the Alternator bracket replacement topic).

Since the coolant was already gone, I didn't have to drain it. The replacement kit comes with a new 90 hose below the thermostat housing (1 inch to 7/8 inch) and a copper elbow underneath the alternator.

I had heard of "leaking" fluid when the studs are removed, but mine were long enough, so I didn't have to remove them.

When I did my friend's E-32 M25 bracket replacement, we did NOT empty the coolant and there were no leaks when the studs were removed. The exhaust manifold studs at the rear of the engine ARE like that simply because the exhaust manifold holds the water. They are different than the studs that hold the alternator bracket. I have heard this "story" but do not believe they apply to the bracket studs. That's for an M25. I believe yours is an M18, which may be different.

I suggest that you simply call Joe Joyce at Westerbeke and ask him. Other suggestion is to remove one stud and see if you have any leaks.

One way to drain the coolant is in reply #6, here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html If you do, you'll also have to Burp the engine, which is also covered in that topic.
 
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