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Fixed portlights

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
I have developed a leak by one of the signature fixed portlights on my 87 E-34. It appears to just need rebedding which sounds so simple, except I have read many of the existing threads. The electric tape I have over the edge has gotten me through some serious storms so far.

I am confused as to whether or not one can easily remove the portlight and rebed it without bending the frame or destroying the sealing gasket around the glass lens. I am not anxious to get into a multi-day job at this time.

What's been your experience?
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I have a leaky fixed port on my E38. I have found that periodic applications of Cap't Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure will seal it up for a season or more. I'm not sure where the port is leaking but I suspect it to be the frame union or the glass/gasket seal. Either way, apply Tolleys 8 to 10 times over an hour or so and it seals it up long enough for me to forget about it...... RT
 

Maine Sail

Member III
I have developed a leak by one of the signature fixed portlights on my 87 E-34. It appears to just need rebedding which sounds so simple, except I have read many of the existing threads. The electric tape I have over the edge has gotten me through some serious storms so far.

I am confused as to whether or not one can easily remove the portlight and rebed it without bending the frame or destroying the sealing gasket around the glass lens. I am not anxious to get into a multi-day job at this time.

What's been your experience?

Tom,

It will all depend upon what it was bedded with but they can and will come out but it may require patience measured in days not hours..:mad:

If you do find they are leaking between the glass and frame, and corrosion has set in, Bomon in Canada can make near exact duplicates. The radius on the corners is ever so slightly off but nothing a little jig saw won't fix. Bomon, not to be confused with Bomar, is also very reasonably priced for custom portlights.

Tim R. had replaced his fixed portlights with Bomon's on his 35-3 and I have a couple of customers with Sabre's and Catalina's that have gone the same route. A good product and a good company.. I would try to squeak by until winter if you can and tackle it then. A little tape never hurt so long as your sailing...
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
The problem I found in removing the original windows is the shape of the frame extrusion; it can allow the frame to get hung up in the cabin cutout. You may have to try sliding the loosened frame up and down and side to side to work it out. If they are corroded they are not worth trying to fix if you can afford about $320 per window from Bomon.

An aside to Maine Sail:

If you see this could you comment on a reference I saw on your website about failures occurring in the "drill-and-fill" method of rebedding deck hardware?
 
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Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Been there

I've removed and rebed the fixed ports on my 27 and am in the process of re-doing the ones on my 28. With the 27 I went way overboard and custom cut UV resistant rubber gasketing for between the frame and cabin sides. The seal between the safety glass and frame was not leaking at all. Five years and not a drop of water. If yours has been a fresh water boat all its life, as my 27, I doubt that you would have any frame corrosion issues. I've been up to my eyeballs with work all summer and haven't had the opportunity to get the 27 wet and sail down to see you. Plan to launch next week. Would be happy to consult over a glass of single malt.
Al Frakes, Port Kent, NY
 

Akavishon

Member III
I've taken out and rebedded all four of my fixed ports. The biggest difference is whether you have a leak between the port frame and the cabin surface, or between the lens and the port frame.

If it's the former, the job is quick & easy - use a sharp metal putty knife to cut the old bedding between the port frame and cabin surface, and a mini crowbar to gently pry out the frame away from the cabin. I used duct tape to protect the cabin surface from scratches. Once you got them out, clean well (toughest part, imho) and rebed with butyl tape.

If it's the latter, the job is more involved. Once you have the ports out, you need to take them apart (there could be corrosion where SS fasteners touch the aluminum frames), remove the old gasket, clean everything (again, toughest part of the job), cut/fit/glue a new gasket, put the port back together (sometimes not easy, need help/clamps to make things fit), wait until everything cures, then rebed as above.

Makes for a nice winter project, and a bonus is that you could have the frames repainted and polished, while you're at it ... (I did not).

Best of luck, Zoran
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Thanx to all for the replies. Xanthus has been in fresh water for the last 16 years so I don't expect corrosion.

Yesterday after I left the boat I had a severe test of the electrical tape I have sealing the portlight. I hope to get back tonight or tomorrow to see how it held up.

"We want to inform you that Willsboro Bay Marina was hit by a micro-burst and likely a small tornado around 4:30 pm today (July 17). Wind speed of 83 knots (95 mph) was observed in a sheltered portion of the marina. If anyone has observed or recorded a higher wind speed please let us know. There were no injuries and there was no major damage to any boat. Docks 1, 4 and 5 sustained no significant damage and boats on those docks do not appear to have any damage. We believe that wind speeds could have reached 120 to 130 mph in the hardest hit areas of docks 2 and 3. We observed wind shear with upper level winds from the north and west while simultaneously surface winds were from the south or east.

Anchors were dragged on all docks and some main sections of docks 2 and 3 have been damaged. Dock 2 shifted position significantly closing the fairway between 2 and 3. There was minor damage to some boats on the outer halves of docks 2 and 3. Prompt action by marina members (for which we are very grateful) and marina staff halted and lessened the severity of most damage from boat on boat contact. Several furling genoas opened on dock 2 where wind speeds were obviously the greatest and some of these sails were damaged. Opened sails undoubtedly contributed to movement of and damage to the dock. No damage appears significant enough to end anyone's boating season. We have relocated some boats from the outer portion of the south side of dock 2 to other docks."

I'm on dock 4, but there is an E-35-2 on Dock 2. He just got there for the season Monday.

The marina has about 180 -200 slips from shore to about 55 feet deep.

Pic of a main dock section from Dock 2, and the marina in more peaceful times, looking at Dock 3 with Dock 2 behind it.
 

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bleeE25

New Member
Reglazing Portlights with Glazing Channel

My portlights needed refinishing and reglazing. In my attempts to find a new extruded vinyl to reglaze the portlight, every website I found, the glazing channel was too small. My next choice was to bed the DSB glass with butyl tape and rubber spline. I was not exactly sure which spline to get because of the unknown squeeze factor.

I eventually found what I believe to be the right sized glazing channel for an E25+ 1980 fixed portlight. It is part number P-8174 from Prime-Line. You can't buy it direct, but Home Depot will special order 100' (min buy) for $20. Based on what little I know about o-rings and seals, this extruded glazing should be a low maintenance solution for many years.

Portlight aluminum extrusion frame channel = .342 wide X .410 deep

Prime-Line P-8174 Glazing Channel Extrusion Profile.jpg
http://www.primeline.net/home4.wcs?...014&cAv1=016&cAtt2=0011&cAv2=001&cItem=P+8174
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
Has anyone drilled small weep holes in the bottom of the channel of the frame to let any water that makes its way into the channel drain to the outside?
 
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