• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Fresh New Marine G10 /F4 Chunk for knees, backing plates etc. Replace rusting metal parts with this. Will not rot or soak up water. Super strong.

Doug177

Member III
Strong as metal but will not corrode. Cuts with sharp carbide tools. Use it for strength in areas that can get wet. Don't use it where you need some flexion as it will not flex. I used it to help make hydraulic ram shelf. People use it to make strong, unbreakable knife handles that stand up to any abuse from weather. $55 plus $13 flat rate shipping. I have a piece that is twice as long.
 

Attachments

  • image8.jpeg
    image8.jpeg
    44.7 KB · Views: 11
  • image7.jpeg
    image7.jpeg
    47.4 KB · Views: 13
  • image5 (1).jpeg
    image5 (1).jpeg
    46.3 KB · Views: 15
  • image3 (3).jpeg
    image3 (3).jpeg
    37.8 KB · Views: 13
  • image0 (6).jpeg
    image0 (6).jpeg
    33.7 KB · Views: 11

markvone

Sustaining Member
FWIW, it cuts like butter with a cheap ceramic tile wet saw. Borrow from a friend or buy a used cheap one on Craigslist or new:

SKIL 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw - 3540-02 - Power Tile Saws - Amazon.com

Best for straight cuts, now my replacement hull valve backing plates are square. Drilling a single center hole in my 1/2 inch G10/F4 destroyed a cheap hole saw blade. Bonus, I just used this saw to cut tile for a bathroom floor. Who knew boat tools had other applications.

Mark
 

Doug177

Member III
FWIW, it cuts like butter with a cheap ceramic tile wet saw. Borrow from a friend or buy a used cheap one on Craigslist or new:

SKIL 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw - 3540-02 - Power Tile Saws - Amazon.com

Best for straight cuts, now my replacement hull valve backing plates are square. Drilling a single center hole in my 1/2 inch G10/F4 destroyed a cheap hole saw blade. Bonus, I just used this saw to cut tile for a bathroom floor. Who knew boat tools had other applications.

Mark
Dang...I wish I would've known that sooner Mark. I can't imagine "like butter". Thanks!
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
G10 is great stuff, interchangeable with aluminum except much easier to keep painted and join with other parts with epoxy. But carbide tooling is absolutely essential - unless you only want to get partway through your project, and you enjoy the smell of hot metal and scorched G10.

(Which. I. Do. Not.)

My source for sheets is McMaster.com, but I find small chunks of it at reasonable prices from a guy on eBay in Norfolk, VA who is some sort of fabricator. I use it for backing plates (1/4" thickness), deck core material under stanchions (1/2"), as a base under the deck-stepped mast (1/2"), and (in 3/16" thickness) as the upper layer for deck replacement, with foam in place of the original balsa core. I find it absolutely indispensible in core repair projects because of its enormous strength and ease of placement, and can't imagine why people attempt to build their own upper surface using layers of glass cloth.

My big experiment a few years ago was to create an integral winch base plate and cleat lift for my mainsheet, which is mounted on the cabin top and that I relocated from starboard to port to get out of the way of the halyards. This replicated the functionality of a bent metal plate that came with the boat that remains on the starboard side. It's painted with silver paint, so it looks fairly metal, and has been working perfectly.

This is the best picture of it I could find. Everything from below the winch to the cleat is G10; the built-up portion is several layers of 1/2" rounded rectangular G10 stacked up and epoxied together atop a base of 1/4" G10. The cleat is attached with long through-bolts and countersunk nuts into the bottom of the G10 stack.

EDIT: Oh, I see you're selling your 12" x 8" x 2" chunk. That's going to be useful under somebody's mast.
 

Attachments

  • winchbase.jpg
    winchbase.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 19

Doug177

Member III
Good post "Tenders"! Come to think of it, I did put a two carefully shaped chunks between my mast step and keel. Epoxied it in with some thinner sheets from Defender, another good source of Sheet G-10. It will be there when Dinosaurs once again roam the Earth. To paraphrase, "There's nothing like the smell of freshly sawn or routed G-10 in the morning! "
 

Michael Edwards

Member II
I used PVC 1/2” panel from big box building supply to make shroud backing plates under the deck. The original plywood was water damaged (not destroyed…but not to be ignored). I used permanent calk, which oozed up through the deck to seal it.
Much cheaper solution and stronger than original.
 
Top