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FRP for hard dodger top

paul culver

Member III
I will need to cut a long curve in an FRP thin panel for the forward edge of the top of my dodger. Internet has countless advice on scoring, aviation snips, diamod/carbide jig saw blade, electric sheet metal cutters, etc. Has anyone here done this job and if so please advise on what worked for you.

Thanks
 

Gaviate

Member III
Aviation snips work well but try to never fully close the jaws, this will cause a split in the material. Use only half of the jaw,.. closest to the hinge, kinda like chewing with your mouth open. I would cut close to the line and finish with a sanding block (not electric) if fine fit is required. Forget scoring or electric shears. Jigsaw with proper blade is ok but FRP is flimsy and I would want both sides of cut to be supported, maybe sacrifice a piece of plywood to support and cut at same time.
 

Navman

Member III
In construction we use a fine toothed non-carbide panel blade put in backwards. You can also use a Dremmel style plastic cut-off blade
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator

paul culver

Member III
Cuts easy with a


Not that I'm aware.

It cuts easily with the blade below if you tape the sheet to a cheap piece of 1/4" luan, thick cardboard, or anything else to give it some body. Make sure to press firmly on the saw so the FRP can't flop.

Then finish the edge with a belt sander parallel to the edge, not across it.
I don't know about UV stability, other than it is fiberglass and can be painted if desired. Thanks to all for the cutting methods. I will be trying them out on the part of the 4x8 panel I don't need for the top.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Just saw your reply. Use a good name brand primer with lots of solids on all surfaces and UV should not be a problem.
 

paul culver

Member III
Things are moving along quite well so far. Tin Kicker's jig saw blade worked like a charm. Thanks Tin! Now I'm ready to screw the FRP panel onto the stainless bows of the frame. I'll drill pilot holes in the FRP at regular intervals at what should be the center of the tube if I measured everything right. I think I need self tapping stainless screws for the mount. Do these need to have a pre-drilled hole in the stainless or are they sharp enough to drill themselves in? I haven't worked with them before.
 
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