gas cook stove...


Member II
We have not used the two burner stove for over two years but now with a 7 day cruise coming up we need hot food.
Filled up the tank and the gauge says 150 but NO gas to burners and will not light. is there a cut off some where?
There is a round 4" across pressure thing I guess about 5" into the line from the tank and then some rusted out looking item (no not what) that could be an alarm or something...?
Do you feel it would hurt If I took off hose and blasted it with air pressure?
Don 't know much about this things but can cook good it will burn.

Nica Ralph

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
One guess is that there was/is a nearby solenoid to start/stop the flow of gas and that it has rusted in the closed position.
Propane or CNG?

Perhaps more info or a picture or two will help us help you.


Guy Stevens

Replacing them is generally the only way to get it working again

First this is what they look like before they are a rusted blob.

They range in cost between about $30.oo and about $170.00 depending on how large an orifice you require, and if it is a high or low pressure valve. If all that it is supplying gas to is the stove then you could definitely get away with the cheaper of them. However the cheap ones are almost always low pressure valves and are placed AFTER the pressure regulator. This is less than optimal as pressure regulators are one of the first things to fail. I like and it is a recommendation for safety to install a high pressure solenoid valve ahead of the regulator.

If you look at the regulator it has a small hole on the bottom of it. This is to allow the gas to escape should the diaphragm inside fail. This is the most common failure mode for these and does happen with some regularity.

It is unlikely that your hose is plugged with anything, although I have seen people who left the tanks off for an extended period of time have bugs living in the hose and completely plugging it. If you feel that you must blow it out, blow from the stove end out the bottle end.

This is a good time, I would say even a necessity to look at the entire system from start to finish, making sure that everything is in order and that there are no other issues that have occurred in this time of non use.

I like to start at the tank, the simple end and move toward the complex end the stove when I teach about this system.

Bottle, Bottle Hose connection, Gauge, Solenoid Valve (High Pressure), Regulator, Connection to the hose, NO BREAKS AT ALL in the section from the regulator to the stove, stove connection, Burner Feed Manifold, Burner Valves, Burner Air venturi (also called an air shutter), Burner Feed Tubes, Burners, Oven Valve, Oven Thermocouple System, Oven Pilot Light, Oven Feed Tube (I have seen a lot of these with bad holes in them, easy and cheap to replace, but could kill you), Oven venturi, Oven Burner Assembly, Oven Heat Diffusion Plate, Oven Temperature Control Thermostat probe.

Fire away (pun intended) if you have any questions. There is almost a full days class here for most people on how these things work. Most of it is really easy to understand once you have it explained to you. With the exception of stuck safety valves on the newer force 10 stoves is easy to fix yourself.

The first two photos are different photos of solenoid valves, the last photo is of a standard regulator. This is a single stage regulator and is what is found on most boats. There are double stage and adjustable regulators which do a much better job, (Temperature compensated, and anti pulsing), which can be placed in service on boats, but rarely are.


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Member III
Another thing that it could possibly be is how you are starting it. I learned the hard way that on my "Princess" brand propane stove that you have to press the valve knob down and hold it while lighting...this lets the thermocouple warm up with the flame and then you can use the valve knob normally

Also a good investment to have one of the wand type propane sniffers, just in case you do have a leak.



Member II
over 70 and you forget a lot of stuff....

Three of our young men from our Sea Scout Ship "No Bad Days" went to the boat to complete the loading for the 7 day cruise up the coast to where we will leave the boat until the 1st week of Nov. as the South West swell (up to 18 ft.) and wind (sometimes over 40mph) rain like you have never seen from the south seas is just to much to chance... last two years we have pulled her out and left on the hard got some work done, but this year we are taking a fun (1st time for this long for these boys) cruise up and then back with another bunch of Kids that have earned it. If you have never been on a Ericson with 6 young Guys that just eat up everything and gain so much of the wonders of life you have not lived.

The on going story of the cook stove was sloved today after I had chased down 12 volt wires from the tank area to the stove and lots of other places too. As my Sea Scout 1st mate was putting away a stack of stuff we had on the chart table he ask as only he can, what about the breaker swithc on the black panel that says STOVE might that have something to do with it?
Well to make a long story shorter it fires up now and looks like we will have hot meals.
One more question... about how long (cooking time) should I expect from a tank? I figure we will use it about an hour each day for 7 days... will it last that long?

Thanks to all of you that responed and gave the good input, I can always count you the Erickson group to come through.

Ralph in Nicaragua
Sea Scout Ship "No Bad Days"


Member II
Will take advice...

When we bring the boat back to San Juan del Sur in Nov. we will do as advised and go through the whole system.

Thanks for the help,



Member III
Gas Problems

Just my HO but, I wouldn't use a stove with a rusted anything involved with the gas system.

I know because I'm old enough to have rusted pipes in my system and as my wife can tell you, they're none too reliable. Gas is likely to slip out at anytime.