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Great Article on Marine Sealants - Practical Sailor (2016/2022)

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author

Great article on marine sealants - Practical Sailor (2016/2022).

One of the surprises: About 3M 5200: ".....It did not bond well to aluminum or to some plastics...... We’ve also found that it does not bond to stainless steel as well as some other products."
 

JSM

Member III

Great article on marine sealants - Practical Sailor (2016/2022).

One of the surprises: About 3M 5200: ".....It did not bond well to aluminum or to some plastics...... We’ve also found that it does not bond to stainless steel as well as some other products."
.....Shoes however are a different story!!20220908_142239.jpg
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
I haven't tried any, but have had my eyes open because I'm going to need to remove our anchor/rode tub. I know Christian referenced a brand or two, I think in a thread about tub removal, but I can't find that post. I did find this:

 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
I haven't tried any, but have had my eyes open because I'm going to need to remove our anchor/rode tub. I know Christian referenced a brand or two, I think in a thread about tub removal, but I can't find that post. I did find this:

In response to the question by @Mr. Scarlett
 

Mr. Scarlett

Member III
Appreciated, thank you.
I need re bed a portlight, and I suspect I'll find silicone when I remove it. RE-MOV might be the answer. My go to in the past has been to use a sharp scraper, or chisel held vertically and pulled backwards, pulling up a gelcoat shaving. It's slow, messy, and hard on tools, as well as easy to "colour outside the lines" and mar a visible surface.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
FWIW, when I stripped all.... of the deck hardware off of our boat in 2020, I found no silicone (that I could ID as such) but all of the OEM Ericson sealant/bonding product was 5200. There were a very few more recent deck parts that I had re-bedded years ago with a modified polyurethane.
And the other "trade secret" I learned was to use a heat gun to soften the 5200.

Scraping and chiseling was involved and sanding, and cleaning with lots of acetone.
I did not try any of the "anti-bonding" products, mostly because I knew that any marks outside the glued perimeter's would be primmed and painted out later.
One note from years of similar work, is to get some really thin and flexible sheets of metal: put that edge right up against the part base you are assaulting with the <really sharp> chisel. This greatly reduces the chance of a gouge in the adjoining surface.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
A word of caution with Maine formula debond. I used it to remove my seahood. After a few days of use, I noticed it had dripped through the screw holes and pooled up the top of the headliner resulting in it becoming distorted. It didn't completely eat through the vinyl, but it is noticeable. I'll try to snap some pics next time I'm on the boat.
 
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