Head holding tank configurations

[K2MSmith]

My Ericson has a complicated head to holding tank configuration and I'd like to simplify it.

Currently it supports (through multiple "Y" valves) the ability to choice whether you want the toilet to go to the tank or directly out to sea AND you can choose if you want to empty the holding tank out to sea. Is this the normal setup ? I have way too many hoses and valves in a confined space, so I would like to simplify it if possible.

Here are the options:

a. Have toilet hose go directly to holding tank with no "Y" valve. Remove ability to dump holding tank at sea. (advantage: super simple, disadvantage: you have have ability to pump holding tank; no other way to empty it).

b. Have toilet hose go directly to holding tank with no "Y" valve. Allow holding tank to be dumped to sea (with use of thru-hull seacock). (advantage: you can dump tank offshore)

c. Have toilet hose go to "Y" valve to allow toilet to go to ether directly to sea OR to holding tank. Holding tank can't be dumped, only pumped out.

d. continue to support current configuration. (complicated)

Since I've owned the boat for a year, I have only needed (a) because I have a pump out service every other month and I don't do much overnight, the marina has nice bathroom facilities etc. , but I guess if I was crossing an ocean or staying in a location that did not have a pump out service then the other options would be required.

Any suggestions ?

 

[GrandpaSteve]

If you are in certain waters such as the Chesapeake Bay, and you will never be at sea 3 miles from shore, just go with option "a".

 

[paul culver]

My set-up is toilet direct to holding tank, then from holding tank to Y-valve for option to manually pump overboard or vacuum pump-out from a deck access. My toilet is electric with macerator built in.

 

[Frank Langer]

My set-up is toilet direct to holding tank, then from holding tank to Y-valve for option to manually pump overboard or vacuum pump-out from a deck access. My toilet is electric with macerator built in.

Hi,
It may be important to keep on mind not only possible future use, but also resale.
Our toilet pumps directly into the holding tank, and we have the option to pump out from the deck or discharge thru a different hose and thru hull when away from shore. We use both, and would definitely want both options in a future boat.
Frank

 

[GrandpaSteve]

Hi,
It may be important to keep on mind not only possible future use, but also resale.
Our toilet pumps directly into the holding tank, and we have the option to pump out from the deck or discharge thru a different hose and thru hull when away from shore. We use both, and would definitely want both options in a future boat.
Frank

With option “a” I kept the two additional thru-hulls and valves in place, and capped off the valves. It would be easy for a future owner to refit the overboard gear.

 

[K2MSmith]

With option “a” I kept the two additional thru-hulls and valves in place, and capped off the valves. It would be easy for a future owner to refit the overboard gear.

Can you find caps for the valves or do you just use a short hoses with capped ends ?

 

[GrandpaSteve]

I found caps for the valves. And since I get hauled even winter I service the valves with marelube just as if they were still in service. I found the caps at a pool supply house. The caps are pvc, but they sit flat on the valve so I think there is very little risk in them being broken . Of course those marelon valves stay closed as well.
Caps like this - https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/p...readed-1-1-2-in-schedule-40-nsf-61-certified/

 

[K2MSmith]

I found caps for the valves. And since I get hauled even winter I service the valves with marelube just as if they were still in service. I found the caps at a pool supply house. The caps are pvc, but they sit flat on the valve so I think there is very little risk in them being broken . Of course those marelon valves stay closed as well.
Caps like this - https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/p...readed-1-1-2-in-schedule-40-nsf-61-certified/

Yes, my thru-hull fittings have valves on them, so even if it was not capped, it should not leak when closed, but I would feel more comfortable with a cap on it as well - belt and suspenders.

 

[Rocinante33]

My Ericson has a complicated head to holding tank configuration and I'd like to simplify it.

Currently it supports (through multiple "Y" valves) the ability to choice whether you want the toilet to go to the tank or directly out to sea AND you can choose if you want to empty the holding tank out to sea. Is this the normal setup ? I have way too many hoses and valves in a confined space, so I would like to simplify it if possible.

Here are the options:

a. Have toilet hose go directly to holding tank with no "Y" valve. Remove ability to dump holding tank at sea. (advantage: super simple, disadvantage: you have have ability to pump holding tank; no other way to empty it).

b. Have toilet hose go directly to holding tank with no "Y" valve. Allow holding tank to be dumped to sea (with use of thru-hull seacock). (advantage: you can dump tank offshore)

c. Have toilet hose go to "Y" valve to allow toilet to go to ether directly to sea OR to holding tank. Holding tank can't be dumped, only pumped out.

d. continue to support current configuration. (complicated)

Since I've owned the boat for a year, I have only needed (a) because I have a pump out service every other month and I don't do much overnight, the marina has nice bathroom facilities etc. , but I guess if I was crossing an ocean or staying in a location that did not have a pump out service then the other options would be required.

Any suggestions ?

Kevin,

Our hull #24 came from the factory with what you describe as option B. The head plumbs straight to the holding tank and the holding tank can be either pumped out or pumped overboard, if offshore. I like this option.

 

[K2MSmith]

Kevin,

Our hull #24 came from the factory with what you describe as option B. The head plumbs straight to the holding tank and the holding tank can be either pumped out or pumped overboard, if offshore. I like this option.

I think this is what i am settling on, It isn’t as minimalist as Option A, but I might as well use the thru-hull for something -). Also for the purposes of resale (if I ever sell this boat which i have no plan to). With Option B, I still eliminate the two “Y” valves (which are frozen). I may want to put a simple gate valve between the tank output and thru-hull although it might be redundant since the thru-hull has a valve on it (but hopefully not stuck or leaking).

btw,when you say “pump overboard”, is there an actual pump that pumps the waste out - or is it just a gravity drain ?

 

[Loren Beach]

Some good commentary and further links inside this recent head and holding tank thread.

We Didn't Mean to Replace the Holding Tank

Virginia and I purchased a very fine Ericson 34-2 last fall. When we took possession, the head had that certain odor which was never there previously during any of our inspections and sea trials. Time to investigate. We looked under the head cabinet and found the optional Ericson Rube...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[markvone]

There are two possible variations to option B: 1) single tank outlet and Y valve to deck pumpout or OB thru hull. 2) two tank outlets - one to deck pumpout, one to OB thru hull (no Y-valve). Also, the tank outlets can be on the bottom or top (dip tube) of the tank (better).

I have option B.2. with original tank bottom outlets. My OB san hose always has sewage in the first foot. The rest of the hose is clean, as is the OB pump and the hose to the thru hull. Hull valve always closed and locked in the Chesapeake.

I see option B.2 with top tank outlets as optimal for mostly coastal sailing with offshore capability.

Mark

 

[K2MSmith]

There are two possible variations to option B: 1) single tank outlet and Y valve to deck pumpout or OB thru hull. 2) two tank outlets - one to deck pumpout, one to OB thru hull (no Y-valve). Also, the tank outlets can be on the bottom or top (dip tube) of the tank (better).

I have option B.2. with original tank bottom outlets. My OB san hose always has sewage in the first foot. The rest of the hose is clean, as is the OB pump and the hose to the thru hull. Hull valve always closed and locked in the Chesapeake.

I see option B.2 with top tank outlets as optimal for mostly coastal sailing with offshore capability.

Mark

I should have mentioned that I have two tank outlets as well . So one could go to existing thruhull. Other one goes to deck fitting . I don’t have a macerater/pump , so presumably the tank outlet to thru hull would just be gravity feed ( up to water line in hose . The thruhull would be closed 99% on my boat . ( mostly sf bay sailing )

 

[Rocinante33]

I think this is what i am settling on, It isn’t as minimalist as Option A, but I might as well use the thru-hull for something -). Also for the purposes of resale (if I ever sell this boat which i have no plan to). With Option B, I still eliminate the two “Y” valves (which are frozen). I may want to put a simple gate valve between the tank output and thru-hull although it might be redundant since the thru-hull has a valve on it (but hopefully not stuck or leaking).

btw,when you say “pump overboard”, is there an actual pump that pumps the waste out - or is it just a gravity drain ?

There is a manual pump. When I got the boat it had an aluminum bodied Whale pump which was severely corroded after having been filled with holding tank chemicals. I replaced it with a newer Whale plastic bodied hand pump, made for sanitation systems but had a different hole pattern (arrghhh) which required new holes below the sink, adjacent to the head. I had planned to cover original holes with a piece of teak or white panel, but it wasn't high priority, so has not ever been done. Short bolts with rounded heads have substituted as a simple cover up. I have only pumped overboard (offshore) a couple of times in about 20 years of ownership, but it was important on those occasions for the pump to work as the prior pump outs were apparently incomplete.......vent hose collapsed and prevented full pump-out.:eek:

 

[markvone]

I still have the original aluminum body manual Whale pump. I don't use this pump, so I cleaned mine up and re-installed it to avoid the hole pattern problem. It's below the head sink but well above the top of the holding tank. I'd plan to replace this pump and probably the OB hull valve (if stuck closed) to re-activate OB pumping capability.

On the E36RH, the OB line runs from the OB Whale pump in the tiny under head sink space to the hull valve on the other side of the boat via tubes in the TAFG under the sole. I pulled new san hose through when I had everything out from under the head sink and had room. The OB san line in my boat was old (original?) bilge hose identical to what was used for the Whale manual bilge pump, so it had to go.

Mark

 

[wynkoop]

Silver Maiden can go from head overboard, or head to tank and the tank can go overboard or be pumped. I like the options this gives me.

I have one Y valve and one Y to accomplish this. I rely on the flapper valve on my holding tank pump to act as a check valve when aligned to pump overboard. Of course I have through hull valves on discharge and intake.

Normal line up in inland waters is Y valve to holding tank and through hull off.